woodendude

My blower motor died sometime through the summer, it wasn't a concern since it was summer, but it's getting cold so I hit the scrap yard today and grabbed one for 56 bucks. Any I tear the dash down and check the electrical and the was no power going to my old blower motor. I jumped it with a drill battery and it works fine. I didn't have the time nor the knowledge to trace electrical ( fuses fine, possible switch bad) so I spliced into the clock power. It worked fine for a few minutes and then the clock died and the blower motor only works if I'm at driving rpm's, why would this happen? And what else should I do?

Stuwy123

iTrader: (1)

These blowers tend to destroy the blower resistor. Check the service manual and the dealership for a blower resistor. Mine's toast. It only works at full power.
I'm guessing the clock fuse isn't big enough for the blower motor. Replace the fuse and you should be fine. Check for any other blown fuses while you're in there.

Team420

ya... the fuse for the clock is not enough to power the clock, radio, cigarette lighter, AND fan. I bet it's the resistor, its under the dash on the pass side. Search for it here and you will find pix.

woodendude

Normally when the resistor goes don't you lose a speed or two at a time and then it'll still run in high? My wouldn't run at all. The radio and fan work( fan works at higher rpm's) but the clock and cig. lighter don't anymore.

woodendude

I had the dash apart today to check the fan motor etc.. and didn't see what I thought would be a resistor switch. I did see the fan fuses (front&rear) and a breaker of some type and two square looking monster fuses.

crambone

Hey, wooden dude. I am having the same issue. I have a 90 4runner I have removed the glove box and now don't know what to look for to test the fan and where to look for the fus? can you help?

woodendude

Check out this thread also.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...issues-192707/

pb4ugotobed

I think I got ya covered here.

Remove your glove box. Look to the right. There should be 2 fuses inside a little cover, 2 relays, and below the 2 relays there's a little round/oval circuit breaker. There's a plastic cap on that circuit breaker that "can" be broken off there. break it off. Then take a pick tool, pen, whatever and press the two sides of that breaker in. It's supposed to automatically reset, but they get old and don't do that anymore. I'd be willing to bet yours doesn't automatically reset anymore either. Mine doesn't. I did it once, and it worked great for about 3 months... Until I flattened my pinch welds with an air hammer. The air hammer "unset" the breaker (and shook a WHOLE lotta other loose too, but it beat the hell out of lifting the truck, removing the wheel, and hitting it repeatedly. squeeze a trigger and go)

pm me if you need any other help or can't seem to figure it out, or if I'm not being clear enough here in my description let me know and I'll try to re-explain or take a picture for ya.

srozell

I had the same issue then tore my dash apart today to isolate the problem. In the end it was the switch itself that was melted together and was the source of the problem. I've jumped the appropriate wires in the harness while I'm waiting for a new switch, and having done that my fan works great.

If you have a circuit tester it should be easy enough to test the breaker referred to above by checking conductivity. If it's open, get a new switch, if there's no resistance you're just fine.