Blower Fan Switch Repair - A HOW To with Pictures
06-23-2011, 04:19 PM
#22
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I did the same thing to my mother's corolla years ago... the contacts got hot enough to melt the plastic and the plastic coated the contacts making the switch useless
the copper didn't wear out, so I just cleaned it off real well with sand paper, put it back together and it worked
the copper didn't wear out, so I just cleaned it off real well with sand paper, put it back together and it worked
02-24-2013, 12:44 PM
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Removing the Blower Fan Switch
The switch can be accessed by removing the stereo and the faceplate for the climate control module. It is useful to also remove the bottom piece of the dash under the stereo to give a little more working room. You should be able to slide the switch back and out, then unplug it from it's electrical connector.
Last edited by AFSkier; 02-24-2013 at 08:06 PM.
03-27-2013, 01:55 PM
#26
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I have a new switch, but what steps do I need to take to get to the damned thing? How much of the dash do I need to remove and in what order? This thing is like a maze!
09-22-2014, 05:05 AM
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Blower motor switch dead
I just replaced the blower resistor and my fan still doesn't work . After reading these posts I deduced that it was the fan switch. Took that out and it wasn't burned. A little discoloration in the plug from the wire harness. But not burned/ melted. Now what ??
I wanted to ask you folks before I bought a new switch. Could the switch just go bad without showing signs of melting / overheating???
Please help
Dave
I wanted to ask you folks before I bought a new switch. Could the switch just go bad without showing signs of melting / overheating???
Please help
Dave
09-22-2014, 06:43 AM
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Are you sure the heater relay works? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2aircondi.pdf
More importantly, the heater fan is electrical, it not working is an electrical problem, and to find an electrical problem you must use a multimeter. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html Changing a $100 part just on a hope it might work is usually a waste of $100. Use your multimeter and schematic to find the problem, then start replacing parts.
More importantly, the heater fan is electrical, it not working is an electrical problem, and to find an electrical problem you must use a multimeter. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html Changing a $100 part just on a hope it might work is usually a waste of $100. Use your multimeter and schematic to find the problem, then start replacing parts.
09-22-2014, 06:56 AM
#29
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Heater relay
What is the heater relay?? I went off other threads stating that most fan problems are due to the resistor. That is why I replaced it. QUOTE=scope103;52224351]Are you sure the heater relay works? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2aircondi.pdf
More importantly, the heater fan is electrical, it not working is an electrical problem, and to find an electrical problem you must use a multimeter. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html Changing a $100 part just on a hope it might work is usually a waste of $100. Use your multimeter and schematic to find the problem, then start replacing parts.[/QUOTE]
More importantly, the heater fan is electrical, it not working is an electrical problem, and to find an electrical problem you must use a multimeter. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html Changing a $100 part just on a hope it might work is usually a waste of $100. Use your multimeter and schematic to find the problem, then start replacing parts.[/QUOTE]
06-21-2017, 05:26 AM
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I need help on a similar matter - my fan does not operate on a 1995 4Runner. Several years ago, it began making a chattering noise on cold mornings and then earlier this spring it began operating only on the two highest settings a couple of times and then fully quit within about three minutes. Finally it just would not start. I believe I have checked the correct fuse for heater, the fan works fine (without noises) when jumped to the battery, the multimeter shows about the same resistance on the various resistor positions as a new resistor (ceramic enclosed part), and he switch shows no heat damage (the grease is even present and clean and the copper is not corroded). What am I missing? The parts lady at the stealer tells me the looks and tests of the various parts is not important but that I should buy the parts and try them. The stealer's service people don't seem to have any bright ideas either. At least they will give a look at the various parts and service publications, but not seeing anything there.
BTW - I can't see the photos on this write-up but the description was a help. Thanks.
BTW - I can't see the photos on this write-up but the description was a help. Thanks.
06-21-2017, 06:58 AM
#32
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Here's another copy of the link from my 2014 post: http://web.archive.org/web/201102052...g/25heater.pdf
My advice to you is the same. You have the multimeter, keep using it. The parts lady is absolutely right about the first part; the electrons don't care what your switch (relay, resistor) looks like.
The heater fuse is in the high (12v) side between the motor and the relay. Pull out the fuse (check it when it's out!); with key-on the relay should close and you'll have 12v on one of the two socket pins. If not, pull the relay and follow the manual to test it. If you have 12v all the way TO the motor, you must have an open ground-side (which goes through resistor and switch.)
The parts lady is, sadly, wrong about the second part. If you worked as a tech at that dealership, she'd probably let you take the part and just plug it in to see if it worked. If no change, she'd put it back on the shelf. But once she sells an electrical part to you, she will NOT take it back. (Would you want to buy a part that had gone out the door and came back?)
My advice to you is the same. You have the multimeter, keep using it. The parts lady is absolutely right about the first part; the electrons don't care what your switch (relay, resistor) looks like.
The heater fuse is in the high (12v) side between the motor and the relay. Pull out the fuse (check it when it's out!); with key-on the relay should close and you'll have 12v on one of the two socket pins. If not, pull the relay and follow the manual to test it. If you have 12v all the way TO the motor, you must have an open ground-side (which goes through resistor and switch.)
The parts lady is, sadly, wrong about the second part. If you worked as a tech at that dealership, she'd probably let you take the part and just plug it in to see if it worked. If no change, she'd put it back on the shelf. But once she sells an electrical part to you, she will NOT take it back. (Would you want to buy a part that had gone out the door and came back?)
08-10-2020, 03:21 PM
#35
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Autozone still sells it, now $40
So the price has increased about $10 over the past 9 years. Also that part number link from 2011 is no longer good. New link: https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...340/486379_0_0
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