Well, I follow the rule of "if you strengthen or change one part, you're only going to change the stresses or do damage to another"

I'd like to keep that stress & damage to a simple, easy to get & cheap part that's small & doesn't take up a lot of space.

From what I've been reading, the stock set up eats an idler arm every year to two years. With BJ spacers that goes up dramatically unless the T-bars are cranked back to the stock position.

Some have suggested it's the worn bushings that cause it & a swap to the Custom Machining bronze bushings is the way to go; still others say use a gusset. Without knowing how many people are using BJ spacers & how many idler arm failures there are, it's impossible to get a 100% accurate idea of BJ spacer to idler arm failure rates.

I'd like to hear from someone who is running the upgraded bushings - the idler arm gusset & the SDORI bj spacers; & hear how hard they wheel it, for how long & with what outcome.

 

Hahaha funny. Bulletproof an IFS dont belong in the same sentence. Until that IFS steering is guaranteed for life (like hysteer is through trailgear) it aint bulletproof.

And suprisingly enough, the SAS rigs ive ridden in ride smoother than the IFS does Alot of it has to do with the tire since a BFG has thinner sidewalls allowing it to absorb more bumps than say a swamper that has sidewalls hard as a rock.

We did a knuckle test and hitting a bfg sidewall it gives way and doesnt hurt too bad. Swamper=bruise

In the end why not throw a 1" or 1.5" BL on it to you know youcan clear your tires, dont mess with the suspension and when get lockers. If you still have problems SAS it. Why weaken the already weak IFS by tweaking it?

 

SAS vs. IFS has been beaten to death & is a matter of personal choice & intended use. I prefer my IFS rig to my SA truck as far as ride comfort. I wouldn't drive the SA too fast over the obligatory washboards on the local gravel roads around here but with the IFS I just speed up until I don't notice them anymore & cruise.

 

I think the key is to not crank the t bars with the BJ spacers and run a narrow 33" tire like a 33x10.5 or simmular. I belive half my problem maybe the 33x12.5's (Interco Truxus= not light) and steel wheels (3.75 BS). If you have a gusset on the idler and brass bushings in the idler I thoink you will be ok. As I have said most my idler failers have been the busings getting beat out in one weekend of use. I think the Bress bushings will maybe make that a once a year fix.

For the cost and the easy of the BJ spacers there un beatable.

Jeremy

 

2 years of pretty hard core abuse. (My rig is mainly an offroad toy now. It gets BEAT ON and trailered home) I have the BJ Spacers, T-Bars Cranked, (cranked way up to try and match the rear Cruiser Coils) Idler Arm Gusset, and upgraded bushings, So far so good.

I do keep a spare Idler arm on hand.

The suspension travel I have now I can go everywhere the fully modded Jeeps in my club go. Only difference is I make it there and back in style and without breakage.

 

Alright, now I'm hearing something, so I take it that's two years with NO idler arm issues?

I can live with that no problem. Now if I can just get the guy to answer my emails about the bushings I'll get a set.

Anyone else?

 

are we talking about the idler arm bushings? if so, i run them and i like them!

 

I am; at least as they pertain to the BJ spacers & idler arm damage prevention. I'm trying to figure out the best combination for idler arm longevity while using the BJ spacers to gain the 1.5" lift they are designed for.

Right now I'm planning to use the SDORI spacers with a downey brace & the improved bronze/brass bushings. It's looking like it depends more on the drivers right foot & tire size in combination with T-bar adjustments that are bending the idlers.

The Total Chaos idler is probably as bullet proof as an arm can get, but if you DO happen to damage it, you're screwed unless you have a second TC idler because of the drilling required on the steering link to install it.

 

This is the main reason for me going the Downey Brace route. The TC One is by far a better design, But you need to have a spare TC Idler arm on hand at all times (Costly) The Downey unit uses stock idler arms (Which are cheap)

My T-Bars are cranked way up to try and match the HUGE lift I got from the Cruiser coils in the rear. I run 33 12.5 XTERRAIN Tires. And since I'm one of the only Toyota's in my 4x4 Club I contently have to prove the truck and its capabilities ( Jeep owners "Oh bet the Toyota couldn't do that" Me "Hold my drink and watch this sh&t" Jeep Owners "WOW") typical weekend offroading


Hows this for Flex

 

Pretty good from where I'm sitting.



That made me smile for sure, sounds like Arkansas.

 

BJ spacers, OME torsions relaxed w/ low pro bumps

 

Is wear on the steering the only reason why people don't reposition their compression bumpstops a couple inches higher?

 

that looks real good to me!

 

norcalsvx; righteous set up man, how's it holding together? Specifically the idler & do you have any brace or upgraded bushings on it?



That info will help me.

 

I just recently replaced my 22 year old rear leaf springs on my stock '86 4runner with the Old Man Emu springs with 2" of extra rear travel as the result. To keep the ride more level (I was jacked up like a '70's Plymouth Duster) I cranked up my torsion bars a bit. I'm planning on purchasing 1.5" BJ spacers and lowering the Tbars about half what I raised. The problem I am experiencing now is that my rear shocks are way too short and I expect the fronts to be too. What are some good shocks for a guy who's spending more than he ought to? I'd like to spend less than the cost of OME or Rancho 9000, and I'd be really happy to go to my local auto parts store and tell them a stock # so they can actually locate what I need instead of making up excuses for why they can't figure out what shock fits a 2" lifted '86 4runner. Any ideas and/or parts #'s?

 

Yeah, I have seen the part numbers for I think it was Gabriel's mentioned on here a couple times...maybe in this thread; I can't remember. Also I think the prices were in the under $40 range each as well. Easy Autozone purchase & out the door. If you search around on these SDORI bjspacer threads you'll run across the #'s you need.

 

Stock rear shocks measurements:
EYE= 3/4" X 1 9/16"
cOMPR= 13.625"
EXTEN= 21.625"
TRAVEL= 8"

Longer rear shocks for your 1.5" - 2.5" lift:
for 9.5" of travel: 1998-2003 Dodge Durango 4x4, Gabriel Pro Guard p.n. 61658 ($21.99@autozone) or Monroe p.n. 59378 ($18.99@checker).
EYE=3/4"
COMPR= 15.12"
EXTEN= 24.63"
TRAVEL= 9.5

or for 10" of travel: 1999-2006 Silverado/Sierra 1500 4x4, Gabriel Pro Guard p.n. 61642 ($21.99@autozone) or Monroe p.n. 59592 ($22.99@checker).
EYE= 3/4"
COMPR= 15.21"
EXTEN= 25.23"
TRAVEL= 10"
I've liked the Gabriel's better.

 

You guys rock! Payday's Friday and the parts store is on the way home! Thanks a bunch!

 

Monroes and Gabriels are typically street shocks. Do the fade fast off road? Do they last?

 

I used Gabriels on my work truck & they lasted ok, still on there as a matter of fact & they were worked hard as a cable construction line truck. The bed of that thing saw thousands of pounds of hardware & many thousands of hard miles on all types of surfaces....been on 10 years.