Toysrme

Here's how to build the only intake that *actually* does something constructive:
Get on ebay & buy a 2.75" to 3" silicon coupler, and an AFM Adapter WITH a cone filter. That should set you back $25-30.
Go to... Anywhere Lowes/Home Depot / Auto store. Buy a plastic 5/8" barb, 2' of 5/8" hose, and something like Automotive Goop.

1) Drill / grind a 5/8" hole in the top, or bottom of the AFM housing on the flat spot, AFTER everything & just BEFORE the hose flange

2) Cut the barb in half, leaving the flange on one side intact (Mine was a 5/8" to 3/4" barb)

3) Push the hose barb in the hole from the inside out. That way it catches on the flange & gives you some surface area. Goop/Epoxy/Whatever the hose barb in

4) Bolt the AFM adapter to the AFM, & clamp the filter on
5) Clamp the silicon coupler to the AFM
6) Rotate the entire intake clockwise about 45-60* on the throttlebody when you install it
7) Install the 5/8" hose VERY GENTLY
8) Reconnect the AFM
9) Pull the EFI fuse, and count to One - Brandon-kicks-a-lot-of-ass. Then replace it.

This accomplishes moving the AFM as close to the throttle plate as possible. This increases the resolution of data that the ECU see's to the maximum it ever will, and increase throttle response across the board. It also gives the best transition, shortest, and smallest amount of intake restrictions currently possible. It's the only way you're *actually* going to gain power with an intake, unless the intake includes a n2o fogger, or a turbo at some point.

Not to mention it's... A very aggressive sound. Especially after modding the ACIS closed.
Remember to take off the wire clip on the AFM to get the harness off... Otherwise you'll rip half the PCB out when you tug the cable.





(I had some 2.75" couplers on hand so I used that. But you want to use a 2.75" to 3" coupler.
You can also adjust the AFM cog. See previous posts on that.

spindleshanks

I like what you've done. It's a clever bit of fabrication by somebody who seems to know something about engine performance as it is influenced by airflow characteristics.
Why then, oh why, do you have a Fram oil filter on there? And further why is it up on top of the engine? Am I missing something here? Because I'm stumped. Is it a bypass oil filtration system? An oil filter relocation? Its mounting appears to be duct taped on there. Please explain. Regardless, dude, Fram filters are junk!

6lug

i can say that it def. is not duct taped on there, and two, thats not a 3.0 or 22RE, some other engine that has a oil filter in that location i guess.

Toysrme

I made an oil filter relocator out of my stock stand-off for about $10.
Makes it easier to change, and easier avalibility of OPG & oil pressure for a turbo.

Fram = $2.25. I'm still flushing my oil system from the last head gasket failure. Cheap fram filter that's 1/4 the distance of the nearest Toyota dealer, who's Denso filter costs twice as much, is better for flushing. I'd rather use a throw away than tap my box of denso filters for doing nothing more than driving around a week & doing a kerosene flush.
The majority of the contaiminants stay in the oil itself anyway. Start another thread if you want to talk about that kind of stuff.

Neways thanks tho.

spindleshanks

I figured you had a good reason!

KODE

what engine is that?

Weasy2k

that is so ghetto toysrme...i cant believe what kind of crap you come up with....

Toysrme

Want me to find you another forum to tease me on?

LoL!























(we're kidding)

celica

Looks like the Camry - looks good. How much more power did that give you in the camry? I haver a 93 & am wondering if that would be worth it for power and or fuel economy. Currently I have a K&N drop in but that gives me more ideas. It also gives ideas for the runner. What type of blue hose is that? Is it flexable yet strong enough not to collapse under sucktion. The 3.0 intake tubing in the runner make a 45* bend.

Weasy2k

ES300 Lexus

I doubt that would give you much for "throttle response" or "power" mostly just sound

suprathepeg

Nice to see you've actually done it. Nice job. I would deffinatly want an airbox of somekind on there in my truck though, otherwise my snorkel would be useless.

Better yet just nix the AFM and put a MAP sensor in there.

Toysrme

A MAP is overkill with stock ECU's.
AFM's are very dampened, MAF's jump & jitter a lot, and MAP's just zip all over the board.
You also get into replacing all of the functions that Denso AFM's provide, namely:
1) Turning the fuel pump on
2) Intake air temp function (Denso uses the same thermistor on everyhting. IAT isn't an important calculation anyway)

It takes, relatively, a lot of re-tuning to completely ditch an AFM to run just a MAP.

Weasy2k

Ahem....cough....smt7....cough...auto tune...cough cough,.,,

Toysrme

$800 part on a $20 thread <cough>

Toysrme

Probably, not interesting to you guys, but I'm updating my other threads so enjoy.

Download Xvid if you can't watch this movie. http://www.turbotoyota.com/Intakes&E...BestIntake.avi
You can hear the ticking from all my lifter bucket's being mixed up. :rolleyes:
That is so loud, watch the resonation vibrate the camera. *Also note that my AFM signal is practically maxed out for N/A @ 0.27v. Maximum possible (Only achiveable by pushignt he flap open by hand, or via boost) is 0.03v.*

*Note, the cars use the second generation Denso AFM. That's the one that works opposite than what the trucks have*