Might ask Ted about the hp quote for that cam. I've never seen him say 30hp - or anything close. Ted is great and has put a lot of time into designing parts at a great pricepoint that work well across the RPM band.

If you do dyno it, I'd love a copy - I'm documenting acutal 22R series dyno runs and associated mods. Not many people dyno these things so the runs are hard to find.. Something about 90hp not being impressive!

 

delete: outdated info

 

So I am starting a website for the intakes. I dont consider any of my designs "final" yet, i have two stock air box tubes and one battery location intake. The cool thing is that you can actually use your stock air box where the battery goes, but it takes some negotiating. Anyway, I hope to dyno a few different setups today or tomorrow, i will post the results on my website. www.22reINTAKE.com

 

if i had a 22re i'd be down.

chill website btw.

 

thanks andrew! i have never made a website before, so i am just learning... thanks for the compliments though!

 

i swapped my airbox and battery. nice mod, though.

-shaeff

 

NICE! Did rotating the intake over there seem to make any difference over the stock location? What filter are you using?

 

DynoDynoDyno?!

 

i replied to your PM, and sent you some pics as well.

the only new things i bought to do this were two new battery cables. that's it. i cut the stock elbow and flipped it around (wicked tight) to re-use the stock airbox. a few wires are still hanging around until i can extend them to the new battery location (you'll see in the pics) but the throttle response is better, and it seems to hold power until 5k rpm instead of dropping off at around 3500rpm. (though i recommend a new elbow and couplers)

the truck feels like it woke up a bit since i did this. (and if you're wondering what the electronic box is near the relocated battery, it's a ballast for my HID's.)

the main reason i did this intake/battery swap is because i'm in the process of slowly building a high compression 7mgte for my truck. the intake on the 7m is on the passenger side of the truck, and the battery would interfere anyway.

-shaeff

 

Heat wrap it.

 

I can HPC or Jet Hot coat the intakes... The battery location airbox seems to work pretty good though, i still need to get an intake air temperature sensor in the intake manifold to confirm this though...

 

There are some dyno graphs on the website now, www.22reINTAKE.com

 

There is a factory intake air temp sensor in the AFM. Voltmeters are high impedance, so you could get a reading off of it, if you're careful.

Otherwise, GM IATs are easy to find and available at any parts store for about $20-$30. You'll have to look up the resistance / temp scale though.

Kudos to anyone going through this much trouble to really prove out and test the parts that they are thinking of developing... :-)

I may have logs of stock intake air temperatures around here somewhere..

 

delete: outdated info

 

i did it noticed a gain. put a k an n cone filter on it and i gaind like 15 horses.

 

hey i will give you 50 bucks for the tube alone

 

while your are dynoing..

do a intake and battery swap vs your 2.75 intake..

I plan on running the supra AFM I have if I ever get the e onto the end of my 22r..

 

I know this is a old post i was doing searches for afm swaps, U have a lot of time and work into this and im not knocking your work it looks nice. BUT the whole purpose bedsides air flow is "cold air intake" It looks like to me thats laying right on the rad witch defeats the cold air part did the air temps rise? and if so what did you do to compensate for this?

 

they have been making thermo gaskets for honda's for long
$24.99 one more thing to get for the efi swap!
time..http://www.precisionpowerparts.com/s...=0&i=134642226

 

Hey shaeff think u could post some pics of the swap.