battery/intake swap
#1
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battery/intake swap
My next weekend project is going to be the battery/intake position swap.
But I have a few questions while I stock up on parts. What length of cables do you guys find fit best when doing this mod? What brand?
Also, what cone filters do you guys prefer? I saw some at autozone today for $45 and $50, but I also saw K&N for $45-$50
But I have a few questions while I stock up on parts. What length of cables do you guys find fit best when doing this mod? What brand?
Also, what cone filters do you guys prefer? I saw some at autozone today for $45 and $50, but I also saw K&N for $45-$50
#3
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I used some 4 conductor microphone whire from Radio Shack plus a couple of 8 pin Molex connectors to make up an extension cable for my relocated AFM:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#Phase-II
Advantage is shorter air intake and in my case made for an easier snorkel connection plus freed up space in the engine compartment for other stuff.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#Phase-II
Advantage is shorter air intake and in my case made for an easier snorkel connection plus freed up space in the engine compartment for other stuff.
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As 4crawler said, shorter air intake and a cleaner engine bay. I'm mostly doing it because 1) i want something to do, 2) it will mean less pipes and tubes in the engine area, and 3) it makes snorkel installation easier. So in the future, if that's something i wanted to do, I now have the capability to do it much easier.
#6
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I did mine with the Supra MAF swap and gained some throttle response and fuel milage. It took about 20 feet of wire and some intake connections but it's a pretty easy and clean install.
pics.
pics.
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#8
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You need one from a 1982 and ONLY a 1982 for the 22re. I'll try to find the part number for you. Suffice to say that a new one is 600$ and I got mine used for 60$. Give me some time and I'll find the numbers for you. I did post up a thread for the install so you can search for that.
#9
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You need one from a 1982 and ONLY a 1982 for the 22re. I'll try to find the part number for you. Suffice to say that a new one is 600$ and I got mine used for 60$. Give me some time and I'll find the numbers for you. I did post up a thread for the install so you can search for that.
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For starters I'm just worrying about getting them swapped over. Maybe changing the MAF will be a future project when I have spare dough.
Does anyone know why toyota never did this by default? This seems to be the most logical setup anyway. What was their reasoning for sticking the air intake on the opposite side of the engine?
Junkers, what type of wire did you use? Any specific gauge or thickness? I saw battery cables at the parts stores, but they only go to 14 feet.
--edit-- now that I've studied the pictures you posted, I realise I may be able to just buy some 7ft or 14ft cables and cut & splice them and run them across the radiator. Any downside to doing this?
Does anyone know why toyota never did this by default? This seems to be the most logical setup anyway. What was their reasoning for sticking the air intake on the opposite side of the engine?
Junkers, what type of wire did you use? Any specific gauge or thickness? I saw battery cables at the parts stores, but they only go to 14 feet.
--edit-- now that I've studied the pictures you posted, I realise I may be able to just buy some 7ft or 14ft cables and cut & splice them and run them across the radiator. Any downside to doing this?
Last edited by DupermanDave; 01-13-2009 at 06:30 PM.
#11
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#12
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Here is the part number off of mine. 22250-43110. Those are the same numbers that myyota posted up although I don't know where he got his AFM. I know you can use other models but they aren't plug-n-play like the 22250-43110.
#13
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For starters I'm just worrying about getting them swapped over. Maybe changing the MAF will be a future project when I have spare dough.
Does anyone know why toyota never did this by default? This seems to be the most logical setup anyway. What was their reasoning for sticking the air intake on the opposite side of the engine?
Junkers, what type of wire did you use? Any specific gauge or thickness? I saw battery cables at the parts stores, but they only go to 14 feet.
--edit-- now that I've studied the pictures you posted, I realise I may be able to just buy some 7ft or 14ft cables and cut & splice them and run them across the radiator. Any downside to doing this?
Does anyone know why toyota never did this by default? This seems to be the most logical setup anyway. What was their reasoning for sticking the air intake on the opposite side of the engine?
Junkers, what type of wire did you use? Any specific gauge or thickness? I saw battery cables at the parts stores, but they only go to 14 feet.
--edit-- now that I've studied the pictures you posted, I realise I may be able to just buy some 7ft or 14ft cables and cut & splice them and run them across the radiator. Any downside to doing this?
As far as wire goes I was talking about the wire you need to splice into the loom so the little plug on the stock AFM (MAF/VMAF/whatever) will reach around the front of the motor to the location of the new AFM. I just bought a 25 foot (I think) roll of wire from Napa that is the same diameter of the wire in the loom. Then it's just cut, splice, cover with that black wire covering stuff, tape up the ends and plug it in. In fact I think I got everything I needed from Napa including the little filter and all the hose connections.
Here's a link that may help.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ra-maf-159375/
#17
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I have no idea which years of supra had that AFM, i hardly ever see a supra at any of the pic n pulls i go to, but there always seems to be a good selection of toyotas with 5MGE engines. its even very hard to find a 22RE at any pic n pull around here, you just about need to be standing there when a truck is put out in the yard to find an engine.
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What diameter of tubing do I need for the mouth of the throttle body? And what's the diameter of the hole from the air flow sensor (or VAFM) to the throttle body?
I'm about to go pick up the parts on Tuesday (might want to get a tape measure and other measuring tools, since I don't have any (is it obvious?))
I noticed a crack in one of my intake tubes, so I wanted to do this swap instead of fixing/replacing that cracked tube.
-edit-
Also, there's a small hose coming out of the air intake box. t leads to a round device which then connects to the rear/underside of the intke manifold. What's this and how do you bypass this?
I'm about to go pick up the parts on Tuesday (might want to get a tape measure and other measuring tools, since I don't have any (is it obvious?))
I noticed a crack in one of my intake tubes, so I wanted to do this swap instead of fixing/replacing that cracked tube.
-edit-
Also, there's a small hose coming out of the air intake box. t leads to a round device which then connects to the rear/underside of the intke manifold. What's this and how do you bypass this?
Last edited by DupermanDave; 02-01-2009 at 09:19 AM.
#20
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So I was trying to get the battery and intake swapped today. I did it. But, it was pretty ghetto and I swapped it back. The battery was not mounted securely.
What do you guys recommend to mount the battery? I saw someone else's post where they custom made a battery bracket. I cannot make one, as I don't have the tools to do so.
What do you guys recommend to mount the battery? I saw someone else's post where they custom made a battery bracket. I cannot make one, as I don't have the tools to do so.