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Ball joint lift done, front end ?'s

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Old 10-25-2008, 10:07 AM
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Ball joint lift done, front end ?'s

Did the ball joint spacer lift this morning and it went in really easy. The instructions on 4cralwers site make a hell of a lot of sense once you get into the actual install. So some pictures for you.

Drivers side torn apart, cut out for the spacer done.


Spacer in and everything almost buttoned back up.


Passengers side torn down.


Install done, tires back on.


A couple of things I'll mention that I found out.
1) replace the grease fitting on top of the ball joint assembly with a straight one or you'll never be able to grease it again since the one from the factory is set at a 90 degree angle and you can't get a grease gun on it once it's in the BJS pocket.
2) Pull your upper bumpstop off and slip a piece of 2x4 in there between the bump stop mount and the upper arm. This will hold the upper arm up enough to easily get a grinder in there to trim for BJS install.

Ok the front end. I looked at the adjusters and this looks to be a pretty easy driveway alignment. Now though I'm unsure which way to turn the cams and even if I need the adjustment.







Take a look and tell me what you think. The steering wheel is still centered and although I haven't driven it yet it looks to be pretty dang close to being in alignment.
Old 10-25-2008, 11:02 AM
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you're pretty close. your camber is positive- tires like \--/
and you'll also find your toe is slightly negative- front egdes of the tires are closer to each other than the rear edge of the tires
you can fiddle with it yourself, trying to get the tires back to vertical and parallel, or follow the directions here: http://sdori.com/SDORI_4WD_Alignment...ions_Main.html
or
if you're close to a shop, get it on a rack for a proper alignment

if you were going to take it to a shop anyways, you look close enough to drive it a few miles without hurting things.

Last edited by abecedarian; 10-25-2008 at 11:03 AM.
Old 10-25-2008, 12:00 PM
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Looks good! One day i too shall get some BJs...
Old 10-25-2008, 12:07 PM
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Abe,
Thanks for the link I'm printing it now. What I can't seem to figure out is how to loosen the cam bolts or which way to turn them to push the lower control arm outwards. Oh and I tried to loosen the nut on the back of the rearward cam bolt and I can't get it to budge at all.
Old 10-25-2008, 12:15 PM
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as for which way to turn... it's hard to say.
you'll notice that the bolt is offset in the eccentric washer. so when you turn the bolt, it actually swings around in an arc, away and towards the engine.
basically, you'll have to turn both front and rear adjusters the same amount in the same direction. if they are not at the same angle now, only go as far as you can before the first one maxes out, otherwise you will start significantly adjusting caster as well.
those adjuster's nuts can be quite tight. just make sure you're loosening the nut and not the bolt. also, maybe mark the position of the adjuster so you have a reference.
Old 10-25-2008, 12:51 PM
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very nice, that's my next major mod for myself, paired with some new leafs!
Old 10-25-2008, 12:58 PM
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You can check your alignment and do it yourself. Go here...

Alignment instructions

The shop won't do any better than you can.

Frank

Last edited by elripster; 10-25-2008 at 01:00 PM.
Old 10-25-2008, 01:18 PM
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Ok I marked the nuts, put a ratchet and breaker bar on one and almost pooped trying to break it loose. The truck is at the alignment shop right now. I feel like a dill hole because I can't do it myself but at least this way I know it's done right.

Thank you to all who posted.
Old 10-25-2008, 02:10 PM
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One thing you can do for the future, because let's face it, our yotas go out of alignment, is to go through the instructions but don't loosen anything, just see how the tires measure up. That will make it easier if you attempt to do it later on.

Frank
Old 12-07-2011, 01:43 AM
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Cool BJ Spacer Installation

Hi there Junker, I was reviewing your Threads until I found this one which is in what I´m interested on, I´m just about to attempt for the 2.5" lift using BJ spacers I have them already, as well as the drop diff and sway bar drop, but I´m wondering about the triming part and also what can I do to have the best use of this kit, I can´t see the pictures you posted,I guess it´s an old post.

I just want to be more prepared for the mod and also to know the pros in your experience.

I would appreciate any sabby advice, thanks.

Jules
Old 12-07-2011, 02:44 AM
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I used a 4 inch angle grinder with a cut off wheel to trim the opening for the spacers. It makes more sense when you get it apart. I circled the area that needs to be trimmed in the picture.

Also, I used a long steel bar inserted into a hole on the frame to pry up the upper control arm, a second person is very helpful with this step.
Old 12-07-2011, 11:54 AM
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Thanx in the BJ spacer install help

Originally Posted by FourwheelinVT
I used a 4 inch angle grinder with a cut off wheel to trim the opening for the spacers. It makes more sense when you get it apart. I circled the area that needs to be trimmed in the picture.
IMAGE
Also, I used a long steel bar inserted into a hole on the frame to pry up the upper control arm, a second person is very helpful with this step.

Thanx FourwheelinVT, This is a clear image of what I´ve been imagining and learning from several posts, hopefully I´ll have them installed on this week, I´ll post soon my build thread.

Yeah that second person is very helpful always .
Old 12-07-2011, 04:45 PM
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I can't wait to get my spacers installed. Everything's sitting on the bench right now -- spacers, diff/sway bar drop spacers and longer shocks. Too busy with work and night school right now. I'll write the final next week so when that's over, I'll make a concerted effort to finish everything.
Old 12-20-2011, 08:11 AM
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If you get your BJ spacer kit off of ebay, I'd replace the bolts with grade 8. The kit I got came with like grade 3. I couldn't even get them to torque to factory specs.
Old 12-20-2011, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Leviticus6432
If you get your BJ spacer kit off of ebay, I'd replace the bolts with grade 8. The kit I got came with like grade 3. I couldn't even get them to torque to factory specs.
You mean they broke? Were they hex socket head bolts (Allen)? If so, they should've been stronger than Grade 8 by default.
Old 12-20-2011, 07:39 PM
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They were not allen head bolts. They were normal bolts with no markings on the top. A standard bolt with no markings is a grade 3 right? Commonly used in furnature... Either way I attempted to torque every one to factory torque specs and every single one ripped the threads out.
Old 12-20-2011, 07:42 PM
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Either way I looked it up and the kits the same seller sells now come with the allen like you are talking. They prob had too many complaints. Sorry for throwing old information out there. Just trying to give some friendly advice.
Old 12-21-2011, 12:22 PM
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Hey it's okay. It's pretty amazing that a company offering a chassis part would include grade 2 bolts (no markings) even if by mistake. It's a good thing you tried to torque them.
Old 01-08-2012, 05:49 AM
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Where did ya'll get ya'lls kits's from? Do i need the diff/ sway bar drop brackets or do they come with the kit?
Old 01-08-2012, 09:43 AM
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I got all of my kits from 4crawler. I never did get any diff drop stuff or sway bar things since I only went with a 1.5" BJ lift and took the sway bar out and tossed it in the trash.


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