bad Ecm?
#1
bad Ecm?
86 motor home with automatic and 22re.I bought this cheap because there was a fire in the coach. I repaired all that. Problem is, at wide open throttle the check engine light flickers on and off and when it does, the motor seems to stall. It acts like it loses spark.
it doesn't die and leave you stranded, but its not a confidence booster. I was told by the previous owner that the fire dept soaked the cab down pretty good.. No fire or heat damage in the cab. It did sit a couple years. Has 97000 miles.
I took the plastic off the dash and column and cleaned the contact points on the connectors as well as the grounds in the kick panels.
I have replaced fuel pump, filter, flushed the tank, replaced connectors on fuel pump wiring. Replaced tps as it was out of spec. Replaced VAFM as resistances stopped increasing after opening about 1/2 way.. I also sent the ecm in for repair and they tested it and said it was good.
This is early 86 so it has the round test plug on the drivers fender. When i jumper this connector, nothing happens. check engine light doesn't flash anything and when running idle doesn't change.
There is voltage on one terminal of the test plug, and the other one has no resistance when tested to ground. I have run fuel injector cleaner through it and put at least 100 miles on fresh gas.
If i do a hard reset on the ecm, the check engine light stays on four about 4 miles and it doesn't stutter when revving it up. As soon as the check engine light goes off, the problem resumes. It has new plugs, wires , cap and rotor. Timing chain was changed before the fire.
Any one have any ideas? Distributor problem? The parts were replaced one at a time in a hunt for a solution.
it doesn't die and leave you stranded, but its not a confidence booster. I was told by the previous owner that the fire dept soaked the cab down pretty good.. No fire or heat damage in the cab. It did sit a couple years. Has 97000 miles.
I took the plastic off the dash and column and cleaned the contact points on the connectors as well as the grounds in the kick panels.
I have replaced fuel pump, filter, flushed the tank, replaced connectors on fuel pump wiring. Replaced tps as it was out of spec. Replaced VAFM as resistances stopped increasing after opening about 1/2 way.. I also sent the ecm in for repair and they tested it and said it was good.
This is early 86 so it has the round test plug on the drivers fender. When i jumper this connector, nothing happens. check engine light doesn't flash anything and when running idle doesn't change.
There is voltage on one terminal of the test plug, and the other one has no resistance when tested to ground. I have run fuel injector cleaner through it and put at least 100 miles on fresh gas.
If i do a hard reset on the ecm, the check engine light stays on four about 4 miles and it doesn't stutter when revving it up. As soon as the check engine light goes off, the problem resumes. It has new plugs, wires , cap and rotor. Timing chain was changed before the fire.
Any one have any ideas? Distributor problem? The parts were replaced one at a time in a hunt for a solution.
#2
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
86 motor home with automatic and 22re.I bought this cheap because there was a fire in the coach. I repaired all that. Problem is, at wide open throttle the check engine light flickers on and off and when it does, the motor seems to stall. It acts like it loses spark.
it doesn't die and leave you stranded, but its not a confidence booster. I was told by the previous owner that the fire dept soaked the cab down pretty good.. No fire or heat damage in the cab. It did sit a couple years. Has 97000 miles.
I took the plastic off the dash and column and cleaned the contact points on the connectors as well as the grounds in the kick panels.
I have replaced fuel pump, filter, flushed the tank, replaced connectors on fuel pump wiring. Replaced tps as it was out of spec. Replaced VAFM as resistances stopped increasing after opening about 1/2 way.. I also sent the ecm in for repair and they tested it and said it was good.
This is early 86 so it has the round test plug on the drivers fender. When i jumper this connector, nothing happens. check engine light doesn't flash anything and when running idle doesn't change.
There is voltage on one terminal of the test plug, and the other one has no resistance when tested to ground. I have run fuel injector cleaner through it and put at least 100 miles on fresh gas.
If i do a hard reset on the ecm, the check engine light stays on four about 4 miles and it doesn't stutter when revving it up. As soon as the check engine light goes off, the problem resumes. It has new plugs, wires , cap and rotor. Timing chain was changed before the fire.
Any one have any ideas? Distributor problem? The parts were replaced one at a time in a hunt for a solution.
it doesn't die and leave you stranded, but its not a confidence booster. I was told by the previous owner that the fire dept soaked the cab down pretty good.. No fire or heat damage in the cab. It did sit a couple years. Has 97000 miles.
I took the plastic off the dash and column and cleaned the contact points on the connectors as well as the grounds in the kick panels.
I have replaced fuel pump, filter, flushed the tank, replaced connectors on fuel pump wiring. Replaced tps as it was out of spec. Replaced VAFM as resistances stopped increasing after opening about 1/2 way.. I also sent the ecm in for repair and they tested it and said it was good.
This is early 86 so it has the round test plug on the drivers fender. When i jumper this connector, nothing happens. check engine light doesn't flash anything and when running idle doesn't change.
There is voltage on one terminal of the test plug, and the other one has no resistance when tested to ground. I have run fuel injector cleaner through it and put at least 100 miles on fresh gas.
If i do a hard reset on the ecm, the check engine light stays on four about 4 miles and it doesn't stutter when revving it up. As soon as the check engine light goes off, the problem resumes. It has new plugs, wires , cap and rotor. Timing chain was changed before the fire.
Any one have any ideas? Distributor problem? The parts were replaced one at a time in a hunt for a solution.
first thing do the easy clean and check the ECM ground they can be quite cranky at times
Know anyone close that has a 86 auto ecm you could use to test?
Throttle pedal or linkage pinching any wires? This can drive you crazy !
Last edited by wyoming9; Jul 31, 2021 at 01:32 PM.
#3
Two things The ECM`s don`t like water and high current spikes Yet the ECM appeared to test good corroded plugs on the truck harness ?
first thing do the easy clean and check the ECM ground they can be quite cranky at times
Know anyone close that has a 86 auto ecm you could use to test?
Throttle pedal or linkage pinching any wires? This can drive you crazy !
first thing do the easy clean and check the ECM ground they can be quite cranky at times
Know anyone close that has a 86 auto ecm you could use to test?
Throttle pedal or linkage pinching any wires? This can drive you crazy !
Where is ecm ground? I cleaned every ground i could find. when i checked the one test plug terminal that is a ground against the body ground i had zero ohms. Made me believe ecm was grounded.
throttle pedal and cable are clear of any wires. All great suggestions and i thank you for them. I know no one with an ecm for this. I don"t mind buying one if it fixes it.
Getting a little frustrated but i am endeavoring to persevere.
Any other thoughts? COR? igniter? i am leaning towards ecm because it doesn't t happen when check engine light is on, and i can not pull codes.
Please correct me if my logic is flawed. I just don;t know.
#4
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 100
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Truck harness plugs look perfect. no corrosion and nice and clean and tight.
Where is ecm ground? I cleaned every ground i could find. when i checked the one test plug terminal that is a ground against the body ground i had zero ohms. Made me believe ecm was grounded.
throttle pedal and cable are clear of any wires. All great suggestions and i thank you for them. I know no one with an ecm for this. I don"t mind buying one if it fixes it.
Getting a little frustrated but i am endeavoring to persevere.
Any other thoughts? COR? igniter? i am leaning towards ecm because it doesn't t happen when check engine light is on, and i can not pull codes.
Please correct me if my logic is flawed. I just don;t know.
Where is ecm ground? I cleaned every ground i could find. when i checked the one test plug terminal that is a ground against the body ground i had zero ohms. Made me believe ecm was grounded.
throttle pedal and cable are clear of any wires. All great suggestions and i thank you for them. I know no one with an ecm for this. I don"t mind buying one if it fixes it.
Getting a little frustrated but i am endeavoring to persevere.
Any other thoughts? COR? igniter? i am leaning towards ecm because it doesn't t happen when check engine light is on, and i can not pull codes.
Please correct me if my logic is flawed. I just don;t know.
clean the ring terminals then make sure the bolt is nice and clean as well .
#5
Yes, I cleaned and tightened that ground and the other 3 under the hood as well as the ones in the drivers kick panel. Replaced the fuel injection relay in that fuse panel too. Going to have my wife drive me so I can feel if the circuit opening relay is clicking while it acts up.
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Pascal M
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
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May 23, 2021 02:30 PM



