I am looking for some info on an idea I dreamt up last night.

I know that fixing my module would be easier in my tail gate for my 'Runner, but I was thinking...what if it had a crank instead of an electric window?

By crank, I mean like you have on your actual door for the window if you don't have electric windows. My mom used to have a old station wagon with a crank in the window, and I wouldn't mind having it. I realize it would mean crawling into the back and rolling it down like that, but I think it would be more...unique.

Any of you think it is a possibility, or is it just a wild dream?

 

I thinki it'd for sure be possible, but I don't know how it really works. I think it'd be kind of cool though an electric window is much more convenient...

 

Yeah, it could be done but it would be cheaper and more convenient to just fix and keep it electric.

 

I swear my friends blazer - probably a late 70's model had a crank for the rear window. Maybe it had both? I was probably 8 the last time I rode in it so I could be wrong.

It might be nice to have both, electric with a crank for back up.

 

Your going to be spending alot more on converting to a crank then to fix the electric window...

What part do you need? I have an entire regulator motor assembely, that the gears are worn down but any other part is usable.

 

My dad said that the mechanic found this part to be the problem. That is just a guess as to what it was though, so we don't really know. I am going to mess with it some, but I was just thinking of something last night. I have thought of a duel type thing (electric and crank) but there isn't a whole lot of room like on a blazer for both. Anyway, like I said, just a crazy idea. I have quite a bit of them, this one just seemed like it might be plausible.

 

You could do it but what happens when you have the back full of camping gear and and ice chest shoved up against the tailgate. Last time I went camping, I could barely reach in and pull the lever to open the tailgate.

 

Why not test the motor directly to make sure it is defective?

 

That peice would be the motor... Call around some local wrecking yards, and see if they have one. Should only cost about $50 or so.

I paid $175 for new back glass, motor, & regulator lastyear.

 

do some searching on here, you will find this is very very common. i had plenty of experience with my 92.. the picture is the motor. so a few things that could be the problem..1. the motor is shot. 2. the teeth on the regulator where it meets the motor or the motor teeth are shot. easiet thing to find out is to open 'er up. the motor comes off with 3 8mm bolts. these are accessible with the small socket wrench with the window up. so loosen those and pop out the motor. inspect the teeth on the regulator for rounding and or missing teeth. for the motor hit the button while its out to see if it works. also see if you can wiggle the round teeth wheel on the motor..if you can this can cause problems. you can pick these pieces up at your local scrap yard. a door window motor from the driver side(99% sure) will also work. if you want i have a motor here that works but one of the bolts broke off in..so youd have to bore it out..pay shipping and its yours.

 

Door-window motors from some Camrys and Accords(yes, Honda), have been known to work as replacements. Some are direct-fit, others need small modification (mounting holes) to make them work in the rear gate application. I'm sure a search on here will get you a lot of info and leads.

Mike in AR

 

It could also be the relays behind the wall on the drivers side, Its between the taillight and the compartment, You have to pull the compartment looks like some of the modual under your dash.
Mine was a seasonal problem, Springtime it wouldnt roll up but the rest of the year no problem.

It has 8 relays inside of it, They control the updown and several other units but I desoldered a few and reposisioned them, it works fine now, I probly could have just heated the solderjoints and it would have worked fine.
Use an ohm meter at the motor first to see if its getting the power, If not then the relaymodual is the problem.
heres a link and what it looks like.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...item=8050535726

 

You guys need to buy one of these:

http://www.powerprobe.com/

Test the motor first by simply applying a power and ground. A motor can have a dead spot in it, which can be found by a continuity test. Or the motor can fail or slow down when it gets hot. 8 out of 10 times it's just the motor. But it makes no sense whatsoever to just guess at the problem. Move logically from one end to the other.

On a safety note, don't ever take the motor out without securing the regulator and glass. A spring assisted regulator can chop off your finger in a heart beat. The 1-2 foot drop of the glass can easily cause it to shatter. My 2 cents.

 

I had it plugged in, and flipped the switch. There was no sound or anything coming from the motor itself. When it worked, it was quite loud, so my guess is the motor is shot. My dad doesn't think it is the relays, and he is a pretty good mechanic/electrician. I'll be taking a trip to the local junkyard this week to look at a couple 1st gens and ask if their window motors work. If not, then I am going to take it to our auto clinic so they can fix it for me (they said it would be about $150-$210).

 

what i did for my 94 4runner was had an alarm put on it and on that alarm i had a button programmed to roll the window down and press a different button to roll it up. a relay motor had to be put into the tailgate to run it though. i thought it was a pretty cool idea but the fuses keep blowing on it and i have to replace them, so i am still working on perfecting it but still makes it easier than sticking the key in and waiting for it to roll down and the same for going up, it just saves time

 

holy $#@!, that's got to be the oldest thread I've seen dug up in a long time

nice first post man

lol, just bust'n yer balls

welcome to YT