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Back window goes down but wont go back up

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Old 11-29-2012, 05:47 AM
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Back window goes down but wont go back up

I have a 92 lemon and ive had constant problems with my back window, last year i had to replace the relays on the circuit board and that fixed it, but now the window went down and wont go back up, which is perfect because its supposed to snow a ˟˟˟˟load tonight, i replaced the relays again and it still doesnt work, ive tried jumping the motor and that doesnt work either, all i get with the circuit board plugged in is a click in the down position and nothing on the up position. The motor went down fine but wont budge up, is the motor fried? Is the circuit board fried? NEED HELP!
Old 11-29-2012, 09:00 AM
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Check your PMs...

Sadly there isn't much you can really do if the transistors in the control relay have died. It sounds like only one died, the one for the up. Use the "Service Hints" section to check all the correct voltages and continuities on the control relay. You'll obviously want a multimeter but I bet you already have one.
Old 11-29-2012, 10:18 AM
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4crawler.com has lots of rear window tips

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Old 11-29-2012, 02:09 PM
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Red face

If you hotwired it at the motor plug and got nothing with reversing the leads .

Did you have a Good ground?? That might have prevented it from working if you didn`t

I had one that the motor was just plain worn out part of the $1000.00 plus surse.
Old 11-29-2012, 03:43 PM
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Disconnect the plug to the motor and go directly to the the battery using jumper wires. Reversing polarity at the battery will tell you right away if it is the motor. Not as familiar with the 2nd gen hatch but appears alot of the same as far as functioning.

If the motor is good, I would clean the switch to get all of coke,coffee, and dust out of the switch. It probably has a lot of green corrosion on the contacts. Is the hatch shut tightly? Try leaning against the gate and make sure the rear wiper is in the stow position.

I have several links on Post #185 for more trouble shooting. Link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...99/index8.html

I usually havent had much problems with the relay itself. It has mostly been corriosion on the switches.
Old 11-29-2012, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
Disconnect the plug to the motor and go directly to the the battery using jumper wires. Reversing polarity at the battery will tell you right away if it is the motor. Not as familiar with the 2nd gen hatch but appears alot of the same as far as functioning.

If the motor is good, I would clean the switch to get all of coke,coffee, and dust out of the switch. It probably has a lot of green corrosion on the contacts. Is the hatch shut tightly? Try leaning against the gate and make sure the rear wiper is in the stow position.

I have several links on Post #185 for more trouble shooting. Link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...99/index8.html

I usually havent had much problems with the relay itself. It has mostly been corriosion on the switches.
I tried the jumper wires on the battery and motor plug, reversed polarity and still got nothin, but the motor never showed signs of failing or being weak, thats what makes me think its the relays again, but like i said i replaced them last night and i only get a click from the down relay, so does mean the circuit board is trash? Thanks for the info
Old 11-30-2012, 03:12 AM
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Red face

If you have your motor disconnected at the plug in your rear hatch.

This is what were saying!! You have eliminated all the rest of the circuit!!! Also you have bypassed all the safety switches that may have failed

If the motor does not work it is the motor that has failed.

Is this what you have done to test it??

Are you trying to get it to work doing this at the switch in the console??

About the only relay failure I have ever seen was from water damage.

In any case good luck
Old 11-30-2012, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
If you have your motor disconnected at the plug in your rear hatch.

This is what were saying!! You have eliminated all the rest of the circuit!!! Also you have bypassed all the safety switches that may have failed

If the motor does not work it is the motor that has failed.

Is this what you have done to test it??

Are you trying to get it to work doing this at the switch in the console??

About the only relay failure I have ever seen was from water damage.

In any case good luck
Yea i bypassed the whole circuit and tried to jump the motor, no clicks or any sign of movement, i remember having to do this last time i replaced the relays and it worked, but this time it wont budge, ill have more time to look at it this weekend. In the mean time im really enjoying driving in the rain with it down. If anybody has tried it you know how bad you want a wiper on the inside of the windshield too lol
Old 11-30-2012, 06:01 AM
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Remove the motor and bench test it! It's only 3 bolts....
Old 11-30-2012, 06:16 AM
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If the motor is directly hooked to the battery and still not working, the motor is bad.

A bad/corroded Up switch contact would give the same symptoms of the relay not working. Just for ease and cost, I would check the switch out well before digging into the relay box.
Old 11-30-2012, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 92Yoda
Yea i bypassed the whole circuit and tried to jump the motor, no clicks or any sign of movement
Originally Posted by Greg_Canada
Remove the motor and bench test it! It's only 3 bolts....
Definitely check the motor all by itself as Greg_Canada says. And pls do tell us if it's user-serviceable- i.e., brushes you could replace?

Once you know that motor is working, If AND ONLY IF yours is similar to first-gen runner (grounding Up/Down pins will control window) try jumping Up/Down of window relay module directly to ground. If they work, check your window lock and up/down switches to make sure contacts close (no corrosion).
Old 11-30-2012, 03:39 PM
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If by chance the motor is bad, there is a thread somewhere on here saying what cars use the same motor. I think it is the rear drivers side electric windows on camrys, but could be wrong. There are alot available.
Old 11-30-2012, 04:22 PM
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UPDATE: i decide to go to pick n pull today and i looked around for a new circuit board, found one in ten minutes and paid $5 for it, plugged it in in the parking lot and fixed it, and proceeded to laugh myself out of the parking lot. After the window was up ofcourse
Old 12-01-2012, 08:46 AM
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$5 for a circuit board? Wow, what a steal. Got any more of those out your way?
Old 12-01-2012, 09:40 AM
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The first rule of troubleshooting remotely is never assume the test the person ran actually gave you the result they reported. The motor was still good even though he tested it and thought it was bad Of course it couldn't have been bad given that he rolled it down...
Old 12-01-2012, 11:52 AM
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Sorry-double post. darn slow internet

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-01-2012 at 12:14 PM.
Old 12-01-2012, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jerry507
The first rule of troubleshooting remotely is never assume the test the person ran actually gave you the result they reported. The motor was still good even though he tested it and thought it was bad Of course it couldn't have been bad given that he rolled it down...
Trust but verify. Our trucks are like our better halves; would you like others to work on them? - LOL!
Old 12-01-2012, 02:31 PM
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Red face

:jessica: only if they feed her and take her shopping then all is good. They can work all they want less I have to do!!
Old 12-01-2012, 04:12 PM
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Ok so today i went and rolled the window down with the new circuit board and it wouldnt go up, i had to pull the window and wiggle it around it seems and i tried rollin it up and it worked. Then it started to not want to go down and both the key switch and console switch werent working, then helping the window again i got it back up, the whole time i can hear the up and down relays clicking. I cant tell if the motor is fried or if its the circuit board or something else:S
Old 12-01-2012, 06:22 PM
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Oh no! So it sounds like you might have a compound problem, or the window motor was bad all along and replacing the circuit board didn't solve anything. If the relays weren't clicking before then likely the board was actually bad. But your window motor could be bad too. Since it seems to work if you "help it" I'd say the motor windings have shorted and it simply can't generate the torque to lift the window up. Replace the motor

Incidentally, a bad motor can kill these circuit boards. The motor windings short, and the motor can't lift the window so it stalls. Stalling a DC motor causes a huge current spike, which can overheat components and kill them.


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