That part is easy - unbolt the throttle body for access and unclip the wire where it joins the harness. Clip in your new $10 wire and attach it to your replacement knock sensor. Leave the old wire where it is.

I removed my engine hanger (two bolts) and then drilled and tapped a hole for the replacement knock sensor. Screwed in knock sensor and replaced engine hanger.

I was able to hear my truck ping after this hack, but after switching to premium I hear no more knock.

 

Sounds like a great idea. Will the dealer take an electrical part back? My past experience with this issue has always been no.

 

test the thing, if it's bad, THEN go buy a new KS...

 

BC RIDER...

Show me pictures of you new knock sensor placement? Can you provide a tech read out how to install the new KS where the hook is? By doing this I don't need to pull the injectors to get to the old plug... just leave it, yank the wires going to the old one and route them to the new one?

 

I second that request.

 

I've got to see how you did this BC!

 

Here you go guys.

Let me know if you need any more info.

I could not upload the picture to this site so these links should work:

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=PICT0001.jpg

http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=PICT0002.jpg

First picture is of the wire harness end on the new wire just under the throttle body.

2nd picture is of the knock sensor installed in the lift hook and the knock sensor end of the new wire.

If you get a new wire, you'll notice that the new wire has a single pin on the knock sensor end and two pins at the harness end.

IIRC the thread for the knock sensor was M12 x 1.25 - but don't rely on that as I'm not sure. Just measure up your new knock sensor.

EDIT: Checked my toolbox - looks like I used the M12x1.25 last allright and a 27/64 bit to drill the hole.

FYI - I got my replacement knock sensor off ebay for something like U$35. If you look at the parts thread on 4x4wire you'll see the Toyota part numbers as:

Wire, Knock Sensor (sensor to harness) - 82219-89103
Knock Sensor - 89615-20010

I know you guys in the States have some discount outfits for parts if you have part numbers - so in case the above helps - that is what is listed for the 3VZE.

Also - I've heard people comment in this thread that you should check your knock sensor before replacing it. How do you do that? As far as I know the only test is to rap the engine block with a hammer while it is running and watch to see if the timing retards. Is there another way?

 

I buy OE parts here http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/ This is actually Bob Bridge Toyota in WA but as long as you are out of state and ask for internet prices when you call you will get the discounted price.
The Sensor...
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
8961520010 $189.88 $0.00 $136.71

SENSOR, KNOCK CNTL

The wire....
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
8221989103 $10.66 $0.00 $7.68

WIRE, SENSOR


Just replace it and be done you will spend more time trying to find a cheesy fix than its worth. Ask me, I know all about trying to find a knock sensor work around.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

you need an ocilloscope to check the KS.

-shaeff

 

Isn't the knock sensor essentially a microphone bolted to the block that creates a voltage with sound? The computer reads the voltage and spikes are registered as knocks which trigger the software to retard timing and add fuel?

BTW I run SDS engine management on my VR6 Turbo in my jetta and its running closed loop with no knock sensor.

 

dude I'm in the same boat and I have to drive across the rocky moutians in 3 days

 

Man I have replaced The ecu, the wire from the knk connection to the ecu and am just about out of options for the truck but to tear it all apart to do the wire from the connection to the sensor man that sucks oh well I hope it is fixed after that or I'm going to sell it and go back to the good old 84's

 

BC Rider, you are are awesome. My 52 code tripped a few weeks ago and I've been trying to figure out an easy location to put a new knock sensor. You saved me a ton of time and money. If you're ever in Northern CA and need a place to stay, look me up.

 

i have moved my knock, i have rewierd it and wired it strat to the ecu and i still have a code i just wont go away

 

To those who have relocated the Knock Sensor, does that location require you to cut and extend the wiring harness? If so, must shielded wire be used?

Thank you!

 

Did you use shielded wire and if you did, did you ground the sheilding to the ECM?

Opps sorry didnt see you moved it, did you move it to the lifting hook?


The ECM looks for Backround noise or "Normal mode vibration frequency" that is the vibration put out by a properly running engine( around 12kHz) differs with different engines) , if it does not recieve this signal you will get a code 52.

Its caused by an open or short in the circuit, knock sensor( bad or loose) ecm( or, and the manual does not say this but poor sheilding .

When you move it you may or may not recieve the "backround noise" you need and you will probably not have the the protection of the knock sensor anymore( to retard timing if you really are knocking).

Opps again didnt see how old this thread was.

 

I have read this and a few other threads about the knock sensor. I too have the dreaded code 52 and a '91 3VZE 3.0L and have conceded to replace it. However, I am not a master mechanic, thus could benefit from some concise advice. I appreciate pictures as I am a visual learner, yet there seems to be a several components that require replacement as well, such as gaskets.

I believe I will replace the pigtail with the RG-58 coaxial cable, yet where or to what do I attach the grounding shield? I also plan to solder the pigtail, is there any danger in this? I would like to confirm location name in the ECU of the knock sensor, and any other unique titles associated parts have.

I truly appreciate all the time and effort folks put into these threads.

 

RG-58? Left over from a cable TV job?

The real pigtail (219-35010) will set you back about $12 (www.toyotapartszone.com). Or you could spend a couple of hours trying to cobble together something with a piece of wire that doesn't work and some well-used connectors that are long past their prime.

It's impossible to test a knock sensor without an oscilloscope, but I agree with others that the sensor itself is well down the list of probable causes. And its expensive. If I had a code 52 I'd pull the connector from the ECU and the knock sensor (which means the intake manifold would come off) and check for continuity. And no matter what I found, I'd replace the pigtail.

 

edit': opps old thread...