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Another leaf spring install question...

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Old 06-01-2007, 01:24 PM
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Another leaf spring install question...

I'm putting a set of Downey's 2" springs on my 2wd truck. Everything seemed to fit right up, but the metal sleeve that goes through the bushing for the front of the leaf spring is about 1/4" too short. I called Downey, and they guy on the phone said they do that for a reason, but he didn't know what that reason was. Great customer support, huh? Anyway, it just doesn't seem right to me. When I torque down the nut on the spring hanger bolt, the hanger squeezes the bushing and everything binds up. With the original springs and bushings, the sleeve was just a bit longer than the bushing, so the bolt squeezed against that, and the spring was free to move in the hanger. I can't see just snugging the nut down, there won't be anything to keep it from working it's way off. Here's some pics to ponder:






So, what to do? Different bushings? Leave the hanger bolt & nut loose? Push the truck off a cliff and be done with it? Thanks!

Last edited by Chris862wd; 06-01-2007 at 01:26 PM.
Old 06-01-2007, 01:30 PM
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I would put longer bushings in it, and if you decide to leave it loose put a lock nut or a jam nut on it
Old 06-01-2007, 01:48 PM
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lol. what is it with all u people talking bout shovin ur trucks offa cliffs? shoot, give em to me. i got plenty of room to store em. well. i dont, but i'll find space. not doubt.
Old 06-01-2007, 01:54 PM
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send them back with customer service like that they don't need your business..
Old 06-01-2007, 03:01 PM
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I just got off the phone with Downey again, I spoke with a guy who is very knowledgeable about suspension and 2wd trucks. I learned more about leaf spring suspension in the last 5 minutes than I ever knew before. Anyway, he said that the Downey bushings are meant to be relatively free-floating, and just snug the nut down on the bolt, and use loctite or a ny-lok nut. I'll have to see if my local hardware store carries 14mm ny-loks.
Old 06-02-2007, 04:02 AM
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When you install higher arched springs, they will seem shorter. All you need to is jack the axle up to flatten out the springs. Sometimes you may need to use a pry bar to line up the bolt.
Old 06-02-2007, 02:40 PM
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Got everything installed this afternoon. I used ny-lock nuts on the shackle bolts and front hanger bolts. The back end sits up nice, not too high though. I think it looks great. I used Downey's Doetch Tech shocks, and the ride is STIFF! I'll have to find someplace level to park and take some pics and measure the heights to see if it's level side-to-side. Standby for another update, with pics!
Old 06-02-2007, 03:54 PM
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Pics

Here is a picture of the truck before:



Not the best picture, but I can say that the trailer is empty and has less than 50lbs tongue weight in the pic.

After:



It sits about 1 inch higher than stock, and more importantly, it is level side-to-side. Before, the passenger side was about 1.75" lower than the driver side in the back.
Old 09-11-2008, 05:30 PM
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Keep the bolt it tight.

Originally Posted by Robrt32
I would put longer bushings in it, and if you decide to leave it loose put a lock nut or a jam nut on it
In my opinion you should keep the spring bolt tight. If you keep it loose with a lock nut, it could wear out the hanger. the bolt will pivit in the hanger hole and wear out the hanger. That sleeve should be a bit longer than the bushing, when you tighten the bolt the sleeve will get tight inside the hanger. So when the spring pivits, the sleeve remains stable/rigid and the bushing pivits over the stable sleeve. This is done so your sleeve wears only and your bolt does not for safety reasons. Urethane is tough stuff, it wears metal out. It looks pretty, but it does not flex and it can squeek at times. I'm old school, I still prefer good old flexible quiet rubber. Rubber can last a long long time. Good luck. Remember, everybodys opinion matters! Good stuff.
Jason from TheSuspensionKing.com
Old 09-11-2008, 05:36 PM
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welcome...
and holy thread resurrection
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