Alternator wiring upgrades???
#1
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Alternator wiring upgrades???
So I bought a 125 amp alternator for my 92 4runner with the 3.0v6. What do I need to do to the wiring before I install this alternator? I was thinking of increasing the power wire size and ground wire? Not sure what size to go to? And what other wires should I upgrade. I don't have a winch or duel battery setup at this time, but would like to add these in the future. Any info or help is greatly appreciated.
#3
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My you're awful posty this morning aren't you?
Why would you have to upgrade wiring to install a new alternator?
A wiring upgrade is something that can make your system work better, but certainly it isn't required.
Why would you have to upgrade wiring to install a new alternator?
A wiring upgrade is something that can make your system work better, but certainly it isn't required.
#4
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I bought a higher out put alt. And wanted to get the most out of it and not fry any wires by stuffing to much juice through undersized wires. Any info ?
#6
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The ground comes thru the frame, I would upgrade the wiring from the + post on the alt to the + post on the battery, but also leave the stock wire there. That is what I will be doing on mine. It is a necessary upgrade since the OEM wiring is desigend for an OEM chargre not the increased load. I would run a large gauge wire, I am going to run 2, its the size I have going to my winch so in heavy pulls the power will be able to go straight from the alt to the winch....
#7
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Last edited by mt_goat; 09-28-2006 at 05:16 AM.
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#8
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Go to your nearest power company and get 10' of mcm850 and use that! The big 3 using that wire will make your truck weigh 150lbs more though! hehehe
In all seriousness, grab some 1/0ga. 4ga will work but then so would OEM...
In all seriousness, grab some 1/0ga. 4ga will work but then so would OEM...
#10
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I recently tossed my Toy alternator in favor of a GM CS144 (140 amp caddy alt upgradable to 250 amp).
I ran...
1) 4ga charge wire from the alt output stud to the + battery post
2) 8ga ground wire from the neg battery post to the body
3) 8ga neg wire from the alt chassis to the body.
4) replaced the ground wire running from the neg post to the engine block with 4ga.
5) replaced the hot wire running from the + battery terminal into the engine bay relay box with 8ga (some one had cut and spliced the old one with 10ga garbage)
For future reference the 140 amp CS144 was $149 with a lifetime warranty from Autozone ($124 for alt + $25 for no core). Fitment onto a 3.0 was not bad at all. The output at idle is very good in fact much better than my Mobi-arc'd 90amp Toy alt. I was able to get over 100 amps under load at idle before my belt started squealing (I didn't have it tight enough). Its VERY common to find CS144's wound to 180 amps for very reasonable and as high as 250 amp's if you are willing to pay $$$. With the CS144 being as large as it is they are supposed to be extremely reliable at maximum load and have plenty of cooling for the job.
I ran...
1) 4ga charge wire from the alt output stud to the + battery post
2) 8ga ground wire from the neg battery post to the body
3) 8ga neg wire from the alt chassis to the body.
4) replaced the ground wire running from the neg post to the engine block with 4ga.
5) replaced the hot wire running from the + battery terminal into the engine bay relay box with 8ga (some one had cut and spliced the old one with 10ga garbage)
For future reference the 140 amp CS144 was $149 with a lifetime warranty from Autozone ($124 for alt + $25 for no core). Fitment onto a 3.0 was not bad at all. The output at idle is very good in fact much better than my Mobi-arc'd 90amp Toy alt. I was able to get over 100 amps under load at idle before my belt started squealing (I didn't have it tight enough). Its VERY common to find CS144's wound to 180 amps for very reasonable and as high as 250 amp's if you are willing to pay $$$. With the CS144 being as large as it is they are supposed to be extremely reliable at maximum load and have plenty of cooling for the job.
#13
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afaik - that is not an issue with dc in cars. Reason being it's quite common to run 8-16 runs of 0/1ga in the db drag lanes. Each additional run would add 0.2dB usually...
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Check out this site: http://www.alternatorparts.com/
They have a GM dual rectifier that is a Toyota direct fit.
They have a GM dual rectifier that is a Toyota direct fit.
#15
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Interestingly enough, my mids and highs amp was grounded at my seat lug and when it was dry out id get alternator whine. When wet id never get it. It made me think that either the ground was faulty under my seat or when the bolt would get wet it would conduct better. Well long story short, when I did the big 3 and ran ground wires all over the place it all stopped...
#17
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eeeh cuz its not much to look at honestly....i did not do anything to pretty up the install and it shows. What i did do was overbuild everything for sheer volume.
#18
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well actually, now that I think about it, inductance will occur in any dc or ac conducting wire, but I dont think that it will have any ill effects on an audio system that I can think of... Well aside from its field being radiated into RCA's which is easily defeated with careful routeing of the RCAs...
Last edited by mt_goat; 10-02-2006 at 10:36 AM.
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#20
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Oh ok thanks Leo. In the past I've had a whine I can't get rid of in my CB. My stereo has been fine. I have'nt tried it yet since I doubled up the alt wire though.
Last edited by mt_goat; 10-02-2006 at 11:14 AM.