toyotatom93

Definitely time to give my truck some tlc I have kind of neglected to do. The valves sound like crap, at least I hope it is the valves, but they sound rough when I step on the gas going up hills. And I hope a tune up will correct the stutter I have, when idling at a stop light once in a while it will seem like it wants to stall for a second, then be good for a while.

Unfortunately I am low on funds and thought I could probably adjust the valves and do a tune up my self...But I dont know how exactly.
I can do the plugs and wires no problem, but I was thinking of replacing the distributor cap. My first question is should I replace the cap if it seems to be working fine right now, just thought the contacts must be getting worn, but again it seems fine.

And then the valves. I am not too confident in my self to just go in on my own and figure out what to do. I guess it's just because I have never done it before and I dont want to make things worse then they are. I guess I'll need some sort of gauge thing, and just want to make sure I wont need some sort of specialty tool or something besides the gauge.
I tried to search but couldn't find a write up or some sort of guide on how to do the valves. So if someone knows a good guide; especially one with pics, that would help lots. Or better yet if someone in Vancouver has some spare time one of these weekends in a few weeks to show me how it's done I will do my best to make it worth their while.

Western Canuk

valves are pretty basic.

Bring the engine up to operating temperature.

To make the job easier make sure you label the hoses you disconnect to access the the valve cover. Good idea to get the gasket set which includes grommets, half moons, valve gasket.

Once you've got the hoses pulled back undo the 4 nuts that hold the valve cover on. You'll probably have to turn off the grommets underneath the nuts. Pull the cover off.

To adjust the valves you need a flat head screw driver 10 or 12 mm (I can't remember) wrench and a set of feeler gauges. Turn the crank pulley until it's at TDC and the rotor is on the #1 plug wire.

fan---1 2 3 4
------ 5 6 7 8

valves 1,2,3,4 are intake, valves 5,6,7,8 are exhaust

set intake 1 and 2 at .008
set exhaust 5 and 7 at .012

turn the crank pulley 360 degrees

set intake 3 and 4 at .008
set exhaust 6 and 8 at .012

Using your .008 feeler gauge try to slide it between the rocker arm and the valve stem. If it's too tight or too loose the loosen the nut on top and use a flat head screw driver to adjust it. the feeler gauge should pass through with slight resistance. Tighten the nut and repeat for the remaining valves.

This is the procedure for 20R, 22R, and 22RE.

I'd give you a hand if you feel like doing an 8 hour drive from Vangroovy. LOL

olharleyman

Also if you need it there is a link to the field service manual in the forum page , you can look at so it makes more since to you and the pictures will help to cement it in your mind

Western Canuk

^^ oh yeah

I'm a dummy sometimes. You'll find the FSM very helpful.

olharleyman

We all have our moments lol

Anyway check this link lots of links to the field service manual
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...umbers-102344/

toyotatom93

Thanks for the advice guys, hopefully the FSM will show me what the crank shaft is and how to turn it. I'm sure I will be back when I actually get the time to do this.

Kiroshu

I Understand you want to learn the know hows and stuff but if you don't know what the crankshaft is and how to turn it please put down the tools and go to your local service shop.

toyotatom93

We gotta start somewhere. Would be nice to get shown by someone who knows what there doing, but how tough can it be. Worst case if I render it useless I'll use BCAA and get it towed to the shop.

Lumpy

Setting the valves is not all that bad...just have to take pictures and label the hoses. Get yourself a Haynes manual as well as read up on the FSM the will be valuable tools.

To turn the crank use the pulley on the front of the motor, I believe the socket you need is a 19MM and a breaker bar makes it quite easy to turn.

Sorry I don't know of anyone up in that area to give a hand. Search on here and read up. Google is your friend also.

OchoOcho

This is wrong.
22RE motors are set up like this:

........1 4 5 8
FAN
..........2 3 6 7


Intake : 1,4,5,8
Exhaust: 2,3,6,7

Bring #1 piston to TDC (cam stud should pointed up, if it's down, turn the crank another 360 degrees) and adjust intake valves 1 and 4 to .008", and exhaust valves 2 and 6 to .012".

Then turn crank 360 degrees and adjust intake valves 5 and 8 to .008", and exhaust valves 3 and 7 to .012"


This is directly from the FSM.

Dan

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

You don't need a breaker bar to turn the crank, but make sure your truck is in neutral first! A good idea is if you're having trouble truning the crank, remove your spark plugs to release pressure in the intake/exhaust chamber.

Also, the crankshaft bolt is the one in the middle of the pulley that's the LOWEST of all the pulleys:

TOP ENGINE

A/C Pulley P/S Pulley

OIL PUMP WITH TIMING MARKS

CRANKSHAFT PULLEY

On the crank pulley, there is a notch in one spot...when this lines up with the "0" timing mark on the oil pump (see diagram above), you're at Top Dead Center (TDC), or you're 180 degrees off of it.

I started where you are now and I have so much to learn - and I love learning the hard way! But do yourself a favor and GET AND READ, READ, READ the FSM to learn what things are before doing anything....trust me!!

But don't let that stop you - you can do it - just take the time to learn before diving in - and don't stop asking us questions

toyotatom93

Love this site, now it all makes perfect sense. I was wondering how I would find TDC, and I admit it I was just lazy to find out on my own what the crankshaft is. Dont worry I will RTFM tons when I get to this. I still got a few paydays to get thru before getting the parts together since I am on such a tight budget right now. This is totally the kind of thing I used to get taken care of at a shop, but I guess I'm just sick of shelling out for mechanic fee's when it's something not all that serious.

OchoOcho

Yup like Philbert said, to find TDC: Just line up the notch on the crank pulley with the "0" mark on the timing pointer. I like to do this with the valve cover off, that way you can see the stud on the cam (it should be pointed straight up when @ TDC). Or another way to tell is to pull the #1 spark plug and spin the crank until you see the piston coming up, once it's at the top you are at TDC.

Dan