advice for my 3VZE 89 4RUNNER AUTO
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advice for my 3VZE 89 4RUNNER AUTO
so i have been working on my 89 SR5 4Runner for a few months getting it sorted out, painted and lifted etc. the motor i haven't gotten to yet , it has the annoying tick that i have read is the valves needing adjusting , the motor has 120k miles on it , i have driven it all of 10 minutes since it needed so much work.
im on the east coast , in Brooklyn NY . no one wants to do these valve adjustments and the 1 person i took it to that said he would do it tells me its a rod knock not the valves.
other than sending out the oil to be tested is there another way to figure it out ? if it is the rod knock should i just rebuild it or do a motor swap of some sort ?
i will get a video up of the truck running by tomorrow .
im on the east coast , in Brooklyn NY . no one wants to do these valve adjustments and the 1 person i took it to that said he would do it tells me its a rod knock not the valves.
other than sending out the oil to be tested is there another way to figure it out ? if it is the rod knock should i just rebuild it or do a motor swap of some sort ?
i will get a video up of the truck running by tomorrow .
#3
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From my way of thinking, you got the cart before the horse.
I make them mechanicly reliable, and by then I'm so pleased with what they can do, and how trouble-free they are, I don't give a rats patoot what they look like.
Might even consider a generally shabby look to be a theft deterrant.
Lottsa $$ saved.
I make them mechanicly reliable, and by then I'm so pleased with what they can do, and how trouble-free they are, I don't give a rats patoot what they look like.
Might even consider a generally shabby look to be a theft deterrant.
Lottsa $$ saved.
Last edited by millball; 02-22-2017 at 06:58 PM.
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I have done it that way on all my projects except this one . I did a lot of the mechanical work on this right when I purchased it, everything but the ticking . I just didn't think it was that bad to hold me up. The guy that did the body and paint only had a small window to get it done so I didn't want to lose out .
#7
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There is someone around there that will adjust your valves. One question though. Is this your first older Toyota V6? Most of them have a "tick" to them when they are running right. I'd like to hear it. It may be an issue or it may be the sound a healthy 3VZE makes.
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#11
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I've been through a similar problem recently with my '92 4Runner, 3.0vze......
First do a compression check, if it's ok.....check the #2 tensioner, mine was bad......if you get past these two, and the noise is still there...go into the valve shim adjusting mode,
with average mechanical skills you can do the valves, I bought three shims for my engine( I pulled it and am replacing it with another 3.0), costs were about $13 each from my local Toyota Dealership, you can do this........
the 3.4 is a valid option, you can do either........What do you want/need?🤷
First do a compression check, if it's ok.....check the #2 tensioner, mine was bad......if you get past these two, and the noise is still there...go into the valve shim adjusting mode,
with average mechanical skills you can do the valves, I bought three shims for my engine( I pulled it and am replacing it with another 3.0), costs were about $13 each from my local Toyota Dealership, you can do this........
the 3.4 is a valid option, you can do either........What do you want/need?🤷
#12
I've been through a similar problem recently with my '92 4Runner, 3.0vze......
First do a compression check, if it's ok.....check the #2 tensioner, mine was bad......if you get past these two, and the noise is still there...go into the valve shim adjusting mode,
with average mechanical skills you can do the valves, I bought three shims for my engine( I pulled it and am replacing it with another 3.0), costs were about $13 each from my local Toyota Dealership, you can do this........
the 3.4 is a valid option, you can do either........What do you want/need?🤷
First do a compression check, if it's ok.....check the #2 tensioner, mine was bad......if you get past these two, and the noise is still there...go into the valve shim adjusting mode,
with average mechanical skills you can do the valves, I bought three shims for my engine( I pulled it and am replacing it with another 3.0), costs were about $13 each from my local Toyota Dealership, you can do this........
the 3.4 is a valid option, you can do either........What do you want/need?🤷
#13
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I am not an expert but that tick/knock does not sound normal.
IF you need a new engine, another 3.0 would be easiest. Sure, the 3VZ-E isn't Toyota's best engine, but it was still better than most when taken care of. I think routine maintenance is the key for the life of any engine. The power to fuel economy ratio isn't too good though.
The 3.4 5VZ-E is a great engine if you are up to the task of making everything work.
I am not personally a big fan of Chevy engine swaps. To me, and most people, the point of buying a Toyota is because of mechanical reliability. To me, it seems kind of pointless to swap in a Chevy engine.
If you want a Chevy engine, just buy a Chevy truck.
In the end though, it is your vehicle and you can do what you like.
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Do not guess or take someone elses word for it.. know where your noise originates! Stethoscope costs under ten dollars, link
a nice long dowel, screwdriver or in a pinch your breakerbar will do just fine in isolating noises.
a nice long dowel, screwdriver or in a pinch your breakerbar will do just fine in isolating noises.
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and also , thanks very much for the input . i needed it . i still dont know for sure but my oil test kit showed up today , im still going to send it out .
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i didnt do it yet, after running it for a while its gotten really quiet . not sure what that means yet but i have been doing all the other work its needed and will circle back soon
#20
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stethoscope is the right idea. i can't tell what it is for sure, but a bad idler pulley (timing belt/water inlet) can make pretty gnarly noise. it's right there at the front of the motor, too
how long have you the vehicle? was it a few months ago that you acquired it?
exhaust leaks around the manifolds can make for a noisy valvetrain. yours is idling pretty well, though
how long have you the vehicle? was it a few months ago that you acquired it?
exhaust leaks around the manifolds can make for a noisy valvetrain. yours is idling pretty well, though
Last edited by thook; 06-01-2017 at 12:06 PM.