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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

‘95 3.0 V6 hard starting and won’t pull

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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 03:15 PM
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cucharared's Avatar
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‘91 3.0 V6 hard starting and won’t pull

Sorry, NOT a ‘95. It’s a 1991 4x4.

How to describe?

Background: 1991 3ZVE V6, auto, 4x4 extended cab pickup, just shy of 200K. Originally in Texas but I’d taken it to Colorado and left it for 5-6 years before using it to haul a garden tractor back to Texas in the fall of ‘20. It was used for errands and such here, getting used maybe 1-3 times a week.

Never a problem starting or running - until it didn’t. Ran great one day, didn’t want to start the next. After 4-5 attempts it would stay running but it would not pull away from the curb once in gear. Shifting into low range would get me away from the curb but that’s not useable for running up a dry street. Check engine light was ON continuously while engine ran but never came on when ignition was on but engine not running - so the normal procedure for pulling fault codes wouldn’t function for me.

Since it had lived in Colorado several years (hardly used), I figured it needed an air filter at the very least, so that got changed. Changing it revealed those little chipmunks up there had built a grass nest inside the housing, literally stuffing it full. Must’ve just happened just prior to my bringing it back because there were no little turds and very little sign of urine. Anyway, after a thorough cleaning I cranked the engine. No change, took several tries, but I got it started and let it warm up good. CE lightwas on at first but went out after engine warmed. Hopped in, it took off normally and ran perfectly normal around the block. Patted myself on back for a job well done.

Next day it was back to the same hard cranking, slow warmup, and no pulling power. I could slowly press the throttle and revs would build but as soon as I dropped into drive it became a weakling. So, I replaced the fuel filter since I couldn’t remember having done it before and I figured/hoped it was stopped up. Not an easy job-I’d have gladly shot that particular design engineer. Alas, no improvement.

Same lousy start/run over next few days until I decided to see if it would make it around the block. It slowly pulled away and idled it’s way along but shoving the throttle to the floor did nothing but lay an egg. I could hear what sounded like a throttle plate opening and air going by but nothing in the way of additional revs or acceleration. Nothing. Parked it. And, at some point I noticed the overdrive indicator was dimly lit with the overdrive off and brightly lit when on, but never all the way off.

I had the truck towed to a local Toyota dealership, figuring that if anyone could spot and fix the trouble it’d be them. No joy here either - a couple of days later they called for me to come get it, saying they couldn’t fix it. I talked with the mechanic and he said he “thought” probably the main wiring harness connector under the engine had become saturated with oil and there was too much crosstalk between circuits. But the truck was no longer on the lift so he couldn’t point out this connector to me. Both cam cover gaskets had been leaking so his rationale at least sounded reasonable to me, but I had no clue where this connector was nor what it looked like.

I washed down the lower parts of the engine several times to clean it up enough to look around and try to spot this elusive connector, and maybe have found it. I can touch it but there’s no way I can get it to budge from its location between the frame, control arm mount, and what may be the engine mount. My hands simply won’t fit into the available space, and at 79 my joints don’t work like they used to, so I’m at a standstill. I just don’t know how to proceed.

If you’ve lasted this long through my description, is there anyone with any experience with this type of problem? The truck is immaculate underneath, a few dings on sides but way too good to give away over what might be a fixable problem. The frustration is getting to me.

Help. Please.
Ron

Last edited by cucharared; Apr 5, 2022 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Wrong year indicated
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Old Apr 6, 2022 | 07:47 AM
  #2  
Urika's Avatar
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I feel your problem is similar to mine on my '92

She would start but wouldn't hold idle and stall. This problem was intermittent

My garage diagnosed "circuit stop relay" - I was told this is a part associated with fuel system and is found behind glove box at the A pillar

Good luck
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Old Apr 6, 2022 | 12:02 PM
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From: Chiloquin, OR
Actually, that relay is called the "Circuit opening relay (COR)". At least by Toyota. It's designed to shut down the electric fuel pump in the event of an accident. That way, if the fuel system ruptures, a broken fuel line, injectors pulled loose, whatever, you don't have a puddle of fuel growing and flowing under the truck, threatening all involved.

It has 2 halves. One allows the fuel pump to run during startup, and the other allows the pump to run as long as there is air flowing through the AFM, ie: the engine is operating. if either half is bad, the COR is bad, and needs to be replaced. About $70.00, from a dealership, and easy to get to. Behind the passenger side kick panel, above the ECU, 1 plug, 1 bolt. No sweat.

Fairly easy to check. Put the jumper in the test jack, Fp to B+. Turn the key to ON. If you hear the fuel pump running, it's either the COR, or the switch in the AFM. Ohm out the switch in the AFM to verify which is bad. If the switch is good, COR running half is bad. If you remove the jumper, and turn the key to START, without pressing the clutch or the clutch start cancel switch, and you don't hear the fuel pump run, the other half, the start half, of the COR is bad.

Hope this helps a little...
Pat☺
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Old Dec 8, 2022 | 07:38 AM
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cucharared's Avatar
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To end this thread:

Turned out to be fuel pump, filter, and injectors. Not even remotely linked to the Rodeo Toyota noob’s diagnosis. The guys at Japanese and European Engines and Repair in Garland knew how to chase down the problem and get it back on the road.
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