skinny

I have gotten prices from250.00 down to 90.00 the 90.00 is a bluestreak
the best I could find on a denso was 165
all prices are plus tax

I have to blue streak on order as it was a over night thing
so I guess we will see

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Don't sweat that so much, Skinny.... It's just a "guru's choice" to run OEM if possible. They DO seem to read better as they protrude more into the pipe... But I can't say you'll have an issue. Do you have a link to that part? I can't find ANYTHING on Bluestreak that says, "will fit your vehicle"... In fact, I can't seem to find a site for them, etc.

Yes, indeed, ...'we will see', and I hope we see you problem free, man!

I just look at it this way.... MY ORIGINAL 02 Sensor was in there at 254,000 MILES! lol... Still passes smog and then I replaced it as maintenance. For some reason, my 02 is around 30$ from sparkplugs.com/Denso. I've seen yours, for CA models, anyway, for 55$.... Not sure why the CA one wouldn't work on a Canadian one... but what do I KNOW? Lol... I'm sure there's shipping issues, like with ALMOST ANY CATALYTIC CONVERTER SELLER.... Most every site you see is littered with "49 state legal.... WILL NOT SHIP TO CA! DON'T ASK! NO, REALLY, DON'T EVEN CALL US AND ASK OR WE'LL BERATE YOU!".HEHEHHEE... Ok, I'm exaggerating, but you get the point. "WILL NOT SHIP"... Is that the deal for you? Just find that strange for an 02 Sensor. (Your info might help another Canadian Bloke, ya know? )

skinny

alot of companys will ship but time cn cause issues as things can get held up at the border
i need this fast

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

YES, THAT ^^^^^ LOL.. Sorry, derrrrrrrr! lol. I've heard that before many times... Just had forgotten, sorry man. Yeah, makes perfect sense.

Tomorrow then? lol.

skinny

i may order a cheaper one after I get things passed and will post the info

skinny

ok so I put the new O2 sensor in and seems bit better but still not correct.
i tried to adjust the timming but the tach would bounce.I continued anyway and noticed the dis is almost at the end of the slot .
after messing with timing it still floated on the rpms and I noticed if I tap the TPS i could almost make it do it on a tap.
what is my options how do I test it is there easy way to remove

skinny

ok did a quick look online for priceson tps and found that there is one from 8/1990 to 8/1994
thenone from 9/1994 to 10/1995
what is difference I know where there is a runner in a yard but pretty sure it in the 95 range

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey man,.... really sorry bout this plethora of gremlins that you're battling! lol.

First, I would probably say HOLD UP on buying a TPS. It could very well be bad, sure... BUT, it could also simply be out of adjustment, ya know? Something I have to ask first..... I'M SURE you're doing it right, but just to be sure......

*** Are you JUMPING THE TEST CONNECTORS IN THE DIAGNOSTIC PORT before TESTING THE TIMING????? (If not, the timing will read like 20*BTDC/ When you jump the T-E1 connectors, the idle should drop and then read closer to 10*BTDC[if it's correct, of course].....

You also want to watch the idle setting... if it's too high, when you jump the connector it might surge up and down in idle(You'd have to verify this with another newer model 3.0-V6 owner). I'm not sure that your year has the same kind of 'fuel cut'... AND........ again, I'm NOT sure your TPS IS GOOD! lol. I would think you'd have a Code, for certain, if the thing was that far out of range or had dead spots/if the IDL-E2 portion was not functioning.

With the engine idling, you should pull the TPS connector and see if your idle goes up/smooths out. IF NOT, then it's a sign that it's AT LEAST 'not set properly'...... (or could be bad).

There is also a series of tests for the TPS to see if it's within specs. See, if your timing is WAY off(timing belt is off a tooth or tensioner set improperly, distributor off), then you'll have trouble setting timing and(IIRC) the TPS will have issues as well, even if it's IN GREAT condition, ya know?

I'm not trying to be negative, Skinny... Hey, if you wanna throw every part at it and can afford it... I would not judge ya! lol... Thing is, I am always curious as to 'is the timing belt and tensioner dead on?', etc., because IF NOT, I KNOW it can wreak havoc, ya know? When that is the case, it's like NO MATTER what you do, it's impossible to get timing right, etc., ya know? And if the timing is way off.... then it's VERY hard to pass smog. Is there a way you could make certain that the timing belt is 'dead on'? Dizzy?

ksti

Already asked but didn't respond. so I guess its now a parts toss.

skinny

i don't think there was much of a drop if any when I jumped the pins
when I get home from work I will unplug the tps unit and see how that goes

as for tossing parts at it/money I'm broke really and just trying in a panic to get thru a e test

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I hear ya, Skinny......

Sounds like you tested it accordingly(I might have missed it, can't read back right now, but irregardless, that's irrelevant as we know you did jump the connectors when testing )

Far as I know, if you jump the connectors and NOTHING HAPPENS.... that's USUALLY a sign that the TPS is wonky/or possibly fried. (couple things; Did you clean the throttle body with the TPS still attached? You know, bathe it in solvent sprays, etc.? That can damage or destroy the TPS, so it's worth noting/letting us know if you remember doing so, k?)

I believe jumping that connector and having no 'FAIRLY NOTICEABLE' idle drop can also mean 'timing is way off'... This would lead me into "timing belt or tensioners improperly installed"... I can't tell you how many times I've seen threads that guys with the 3.0 have said, "DANGIT, I installed it but 'this' or 'that' is off, ... tearing it down again today". NOT SAYING that's your problem... BUT; SKINNY, ...if that's the case(if the timing assembly is off a tooth or the tensioner is off), Whether you DO or DON'T have a TPS issue... NOTHING you do will get it running right/well enough to pass smog, etc......

I guess I should just ask it as clear as possible(as MUCH as I hated hearing these questions at times, myself, lol)>>>> ARE YOU CERTAIN that you put in the new belt according to specs(forget "I installed it just like it was"... i'm talking according to the manual)... And same question for the 'tensioner'....???

I ask, because while I'm NOT POSITIVE... I FEEL like I remember hearing "Jumping the check connectors will not effect idle if; 1. TPS is fried, and 2. Timing chain/belt is off"..... HAS to be plenty of threads on here containing "3.0 timing belt install".... Again, not saying you haven't done EVERYTHING right... But if you're not ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN, I would start there, BEFORE putting 50$ or whatever into a TPS or otherwise, ya know?

PS> One last question.... I'm reading 3 threads like this right now(since I just went through a smog dilemma, myself).... so I can't remember;

* Did you say that the TPS specs out to 'fine' ? You did the 4crawler testing?

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PSS> Not sure about yours.... But when I jump my T and E1 pins, I have to do it with manipulation... The wire has to go into those holes(Paperclip, whatever) and you have to be CERTAIN that it's touching the contacts in there... Work them around and see if you notice idle drop. IT SHOULD BE SIGNIFICANT.... like 250rpm or so. Will appear to be running a lil chunky when jumpered, ya know? If you notice SOME idle change.. Could be something like the TPS, but it might not be, so I'd test it after setting the throttle stop screw, etc., and be SURE it's even bad before trying another one. For one, because adding a new one involves removing/replacing the old, which also involves 'setting' the new one... That is NOT super difficult...but it's very touchy and hard to get it just right. (If you DO replace it, read the instructions on that link I provided MORE THAN ONCE.... I missed like 3 things the first time I tried to set it. Things like "MUST SET the throttle stop screw before adjusting the TPS"... and "how to use a multi meter", and "do first adjustment and then tighten the TOP TPS SCREW, ONLY, then adjust second part, then tighten the lower screw"... things like that.)

skinny

ok pulled the tps while running and it idles up and evens out. my tac on my light seems to be steadywithin 10 or 15 points.
I'm going to go test out the paer clip thing again just to make sure I have had the clip in right
also going to look into checking the proper position on the tps
here's hoping

skinny

I never did the timing belt it is however on my list of things to do after I get past the e test

skinny

ok messed with tps on the truck had to run it to provide vac while I tried to adj it
at no poit could I get it below 5

it does rev up and go smooth when I unplug it

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hmmmm..........

AHHHH, see? >>> I was mixing you up with one of 3... I believe "Lankan" is the user ID who's replaced the timing belt... Sorry lol.

Ok, so I'm not sure what the first part of the last quote means.... Do you have to apply Vacuum/idle up/adjust the TPS while running? Never heard that one.... Maybe I'm misinterpreting something there.

Seeing that it idles up and goes smooth with the TPS disconnected.... and idles down and grows chunky when jumping the connectors.... It sounds like the TPS IS, AT LEAST SOMEWHAT, engaged and doing 'something'! lol.. Not sure it's working right, can't say without laying hands on it myself, ya know? I WOULD THINK(GUESSING) that that sounds like the TPS is out of adjustment/OR Fubar... But, again, it IS actually idling up and down in either application, so you'd have to be sure.

Like I said, it's a tricky adjustment, and VERY touchy, ya know? Sometimes have to mess with it a few times in order to get it JUST right(if it's even capable of getting 'just right')... It would be helpful to see if you CAN get it to adjust into acceptable specs... Reason being, you could then move onto other things in the P.O.E., right?

skinny

acording to the fsm it says to apply vacuum and shim the stop with .020 then set to less than 2k

thats the idk-e2
if this is not the way to go please tell me

skinny

well here we go it seems that a faulty gauge was used when a compression test was done at the start of my search. it apears that i have a dead cylinder and the motor is comming apart .
I'm going to start a new thread on my tear down and atempt to repair.
I will return to this thread once it is back together and trying to make my e test

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

IDL-E2 testing in the realm of TPS'dome is THE most crucial test, indeed. I'm fully aware, NOW, lol; Vacuum is applied to the 'idle control something-something' WHILE testing TPS readings".... I didn't know that until reading 'Lankan's' "Failed Smog" thread. You guys have a lot in common with the later model 3.0's.... AND, he's in CA and you're in Canada.. Both pretty tough on smog! lol.

As far as the compression; I meant, "ARE YOU SURE you checked the compression right/got the tester tube and threading in til the 0-ring was BUTT-UP to the spark plug hole".... Some holes are difficult, more than others, that's why I ask "ARE YOU SURE?" before you tear your motor down. I have torn motors down all my life, and I would STILL have someone test it for me at a shop if I was unsure, before I spent MANY hours and Dollars overhauling it...

I DON'T EVEN mean to seem insulting, Skinny.... I know you're doing all you can to test this/making a worthy effort! And I'm SURE you know how to test compression, etc.... Just throwing it out there as an 'objective set of eyes that can't see the subject', ...ya know? lol. I only wonder if you're just dealing with a difficult spark plug hole that WILL NOT allow the hose/seal to seat.... Which would, at that point, read VERY low on compression.


** Did you have it tested by a shop? Just curious cuz I've RARELY seen a faulty gauge read HIGH. If anything, I've always had the 'tired' or 'leaking' ones read VERY low on brand new engines, etc., so I KNEW they were off. Plus, the ones i've reanted have OFTEN had very questionable threads due to the CARELESS idiot before me, etc. I like the kind that I've seen that has a tension arm/spring lever that you just put the plug in the hole, push down that arm and like a pair of self-locking vice grips.... it CLICK, locks in the hole nice and tight, every time! LOL.. I think it's snap-on that makes em.. Would love to get one of those.

Anyway, IF YOU DO have low compression, DO A LEAK DOWN so you can pin point which side is the problem... Rings or Valves(top end or lower end), ya know? I mean, if you have NO ISSUES in the bottom end, other than it being a lil tired... But, rather, have a VERY leaky or even bent valve... .Why not just pull the head???

Don't forget to post up build thread link here, OK?

I will gladly throw it up on my build thread to getcha a lil help(not sure how many it will bring there, but anything helps, right? )

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Post up the findings? Not sure where they are, as per the PM....

Best wishes, man!