94 pickup with 22re
#1
94 pickup with 22re
just bought a 94 pickup with a 22re its my first yota. it has 210,000 miles on it. how many miles should i expect out of it? oil pressure seems a little low it has 10w 30 thinking of going to 20w50 oil. timing chain looks good and i adjusted the valves.
#3
oil pressure being low could simply be a function of ambient temp. not sure about AZ, but here in CA we're still hitting 85+. instead of 20w50, maybe try 10w40 and see how it goes.
otherwise, if maintained well during the previous part of its life, another 100k miles is not out of the question and likely more depending on how it's taken care of now.
if you're really worried, you can have a compression test done on it to see the condition of the rings. you should see at least 130 psi compression for an older but still driveable engine, up to 170 or so for an engine in good condition, but if you have more than 10% difference between cylinders, you may be seeing the onset of a problem.
otherwise, if maintained well during the previous part of its life, another 100k miles is not out of the question and likely more depending on how it's taken care of now.
if you're really worried, you can have a compression test done on it to see the condition of the rings. you should see at least 130 psi compression for an older but still driveable engine, up to 170 or so for an engine in good condition, but if you have more than 10% difference between cylinders, you may be seeing the onset of a problem.
#5
things to keep in mind on the 22re-
- single row timing chain: not as tough as the 20r / early 22r double row chain (and not interchangeable... but there are aftermarket kits to convert the single row chain to double). single row chain is good for about 75k-150k miles (yeah big spread, but how it's driven makes a difference), but usually the chain guides go first dropping pieces of plastic into the oil pan. if not caught, broken guides WILL cause the timing chain to wear into the chain cover and into the water pump housing thus putting LOTS OF COOLANT into the oil pan.
- not a lot of room to pull power out of it without major work: mild cam, tri-y header, head port, o/s valves, gasket match intake and exhaust... maybe bigger throttle body. moderate work can coax 20-50 horsepower.
- very hard to kill: they've been known to survive hydrolock and being run very low on oil
- tendency to overheat if the cooling system has air in it, or sometimes when the heater is on. can be difficult to burp... so toyota has a two-stage thermostat #90916-03070, stant and others offer stats with 'jiggle valves' that let air burp through. overheating can also sometimes be difficult to troubleshoot too.
- throttle position, coolant temp and air-flow meter sensors do wear out. lots of idle/drivability problems can be attributed to those
- if a coil goes bad, if not fixed, can and likely will take the ignitor module out as well.
- bad grounds create many problems with these engines as well, particularly in the starting and charging systems
did I miss anything?
anyone?
- single row timing chain: not as tough as the 20r / early 22r double row chain (and not interchangeable... but there are aftermarket kits to convert the single row chain to double). single row chain is good for about 75k-150k miles (yeah big spread, but how it's driven makes a difference), but usually the chain guides go first dropping pieces of plastic into the oil pan. if not caught, broken guides WILL cause the timing chain to wear into the chain cover and into the water pump housing thus putting LOTS OF COOLANT into the oil pan.
- not a lot of room to pull power out of it without major work: mild cam, tri-y header, head port, o/s valves, gasket match intake and exhaust... maybe bigger throttle body. moderate work can coax 20-50 horsepower.
- very hard to kill: they've been known to survive hydrolock and being run very low on oil
- tendency to overheat if the cooling system has air in it, or sometimes when the heater is on. can be difficult to burp... so toyota has a two-stage thermostat #90916-03070, stant and others offer stats with 'jiggle valves' that let air burp through. overheating can also sometimes be difficult to troubleshoot too.
- throttle position, coolant temp and air-flow meter sensors do wear out. lots of idle/drivability problems can be attributed to those
- if a coil goes bad, if not fixed, can and likely will take the ignitor module out as well.
- bad grounds create many problems with these engines as well, particularly in the starting and charging systems
did I miss anything?
anyone?
Last edited by abecedarian; Oct 19, 2008 at 06:39 PM.
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