I have recently purchased a 94 toyota ex-cab 4wd 3.0/auto. I have not been able to get it to run straight since. It is GUZZLING gas... 6mpg or so and is obviously running rich. I believe the cold start injector is either malfunctioning or completely compromised also.

I have searched and found a few things I am just looking for more helpful ideas. I would assume that if it was running as rich as it is that the 02 sensor would relay that...or am I wrong to assume this? The plugs were coated with black powder and wet with fuel.

I recieve a DTC:42 circuit to vss, however my speedo works, the truck has 7.5" lift with 35x12.5x17 MT on it also. my question is what are the symptoms of the code as described and should I check the vss1 or vss2 behind the transmission?

Other Issues: the blower motor needs replaced for the heater. The front brakes seem to be "siezed up" as in there is not much play in the peddle and the stopping power is just terrible. One reason I wont drive it until its fixed.

I am just wondering if some of these factors are contributing to one another. If anyone has any insight to offer me regarding these issues I would be grateful to hear about it. Until then I am going to start with the cold start injector and test it to see if it is sending fuel correctly.

 

Is your calipers/brakes stuck?
Might the timing be off?
TPS needs adjustment?
AFM might be bad. also check dizzy cap and rotor.

 

I thought that the calipers may be froze or stuck. I bled the front brakes and the idle seemed to be smoother when I pushed in the brake pedal. However, after bleeding them the brakes returned to their prior status: Incompitent. Has this occured to you or do you know of such a case.
I adjusted the timing last week and it runs a little better then it did but with an engine being flooded you cant really adjust the timing for it to run "better". Some component is sending to much fuel.
Do you have any tips or tricks on checking the TPS and AFM? Would disconnecting the battery for a minute or two reset any settings that may have been implemented.
Also has new cap and rotor, wires, alternator. thans for the input and I will do my part to research your suggestions.

 

If your pushing on the brake pedal and the idle gets better then you might have some kind of vacuum leak or vacuum line routing problem.
Also brake hoses might be collapsing.

 

I would have to believe there is more then one code if your only getting 6 mpg. The auto trannys will always do worse then the manual trannys, and your pushing 35 inch tires with a tall lift. Which begs the question, what gears do you have?
As far as your engine goes, sounds like a vacuum leak like what ksti said, which probably fix your brakes as well. Check for more codes and report back.

Also if you suspect the cold start injector, just unplug and drive around. You will have to let it warm up a lot longer tho. If that solves the problem then get a new one and plug it back in.

 

I pulled the injector and turned the truck over and it sprayed for a few seconds...started it up and the injector stopped sparying fuel after a few seconds as well. In regards to the gearing It has the stock gears in it.
I pulled two codes: DTC:42 Ciurcuit to VSS & DTC:43 Starter Signal Circuit...Those were the only stored codes but the CEL was not on.
Also when I have the ignition turned "on" but not started I noticed that the fuel pump continuesly runs...Is this normal for it to run for more than 5 minutes when the vehichle is not started?
Also, I can hear what sounds like air or an injector near the fuel rail either sending fuel or an air leak...
Any input on what gears I should throw in it would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Also I forgot to add that the cruise control is not working either.

 

You have from what I'm reading is a plethora of issues.
Pull out your factory service manual and start with one issue at a time,
You will save yourself a lot of hair pulling. Good luck, report back as bone collector advises.

 

for auto tranny and 35 in tires it is recommended at least 4.88 gears. You can find out what gears you have here:: http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

as for the code 43:: the fsm says::
Open or short in starter signal circuit
• Open or short in IG SW or main relay
circuit
• ECM

some of the open or short in those areas could explain why the fuel pump stayed on for that long. As well as you having some sort of fuel pressure leak or vacuum leak.

Correct me of im wrong but shouldnt the fuel pressure regulator stop the from allowing the system to be flooded?? If it was stuck open and just allowed all the fuel thru then that would explain the wet spark plugs and poor fuel mileage... just something else to check out. I too believe you have several problems, so know them off 1 by 1. and good luck....

 

Well I checked the door jam for the gears as bone asked earlier. If the chart you posted is correct it states that I have G144 which would translate as 4.88.

I changed the fuel filter tonight and the spark plugs and wires. Went to fire it up and did not run worth a damn. Ran out of light for today so I will tackle it again tomorrow.

One interesting thing I noticed was after I replaced the fuel filter I did not hear the fuel pump continously running nor did I hear the vacum leak noise from on top of the intake. Will see how it goes tommorrow.

Also I was checking the Ohms on the AFM and I pushed the VS1 prongs into the cable and it just dissapeared. Was wondering if I could cut into the cable and feed that line back through to the connector or If I would have to buy a AFM cable?

Another note earlier when I was attemting to diagnose any little culprit...I unplugged the TPS and there was no change in how the truck ran. Is that normal or should it fluctuate?

 

wow theres alot of things at play here, have you checked your coil? my coil just went out and it ran realllly bad and the whole passenger bank plugs reaked of gas. If your truck's idle moves with the break pedal, there is a vacuum line that goes from the back of the booster into the the connector on the passenger side of plenum that has 3 male end. The booster line should be the top left one. That line is 3 segements, do yourself a favor and replace them with one solid line. Best of luck!

 

one more thing unplug your ECT sensor let me know what happend

 

Thanks for the input guys. I will try both tommorow and let you know what I find.

 

Well after replacing the fuel filter and plugs and wires and adjusting the timing it is running a lot better. There is no continous noise from the fuel pump anymore...nor is there a vacuum leak noise from the fuel rail which was correlating with the fuel pump noise.
We collapsed the pistons on the calipers and the brakes are a little better but still not up to my standards.
Have not checked the stored codes again yet.
And does anyone know why there is no VC connector on airflow wiring harness? Yet there is a VC terminal on the airflow meter? Is this normal for V6 airflow meters or is this one fudged? I earlier thought that I accidently pushed the wiring into the harness but upon removing the boot there was no wire to be found....

 

Pictures?

My guess would be you are looking at the wrong FSM section (22re not the 3vze) and you have your plug upside down. look at the pictures in the book again not the two tabs at the top and three at the bottom, in this orientation the third pin from the left meter side(or right harness side) is NC(no connection) on the 3vze(v6).

 

As far as picture go..I have taken some to document progress on my HTC. As far as uploading them to this forum however...It is not as simple as I originally anticipated and have not yet mastered it. I know...I know....FNG right!
I believe that I was looking at the diagram for 22re and also was looking at it upside down. I was confused because there seemed to be a terminal connection on the AFM where it seemed it should connect to the wiring harness.
Thanks I will update with my Brake issues as they are still acting out. It seems the back brakes are properly functioning, as when I go in reverse and lock them up they react well.
However when I am driving foward the front brakes act like they are not recieving enough power to stop. Calipers are good. Bled the brakes. Could it be ABS system malfunctioning or vacuum leak?

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...-guide-237689/

 

See how this works

 

And here are the terminals on the AFM. Hence the reason I was confused

 

ABS is rear only best I can remeber. So check and maybe adjust the portioning valve. If that doesn't work it's time to rebuild your front calipers and/or clean the lines.

 

that connector in your hand is the afm connector.