BamaYota1

Sure gauge fuse in kick panel is good? Tried bending both tabs a little bit to make sure you are getting a solid connection?

ViperTT

im sorry!!! gauge fuse ????
ok it is on the kick panel pass side? driver side??
then the dumbest question what the hell does that look like

BamaYota1

Drivers side under dash fuse block. Mine is in the kick panel. Regular old fuse.

ViperTT

ya all them fuses i have replaced

ViperTT

is there a relay or circuit breaker for this W connector???
any one wont to buy a truck??

ViperTT

were does the power come from to the check engine light come from??
could the ingnition switch be bad??
i am getting broke throwing parts at this dam truck

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Ignition switch Pin#1 Black-yellow, to Gauge fuse thru the Integration relay out pin 9 changes to Black-Orange, splits between the 4wd lamp(C plug pin #8) and Check engine lamp(B plug pin #4), comes out of the cluster on C-9 as that violet wire.

Grounding the violet wire should switch on the lamp. There should be constant power at the igniton switch on pin#3(White), this power comes from AM1(40amp) thru the main fuse(80A)

Stick with it! Hopefully the kids are learning something other than dad doesn't like laying on his back under thier dash. And remember there is still hope for the younger one

4runrjunkie

I would definitely look into this as well. Stick with me on this one cause i am going off on a tangent but it will make sense in the end.

My other car is a 2007 tiburon. It is equipped with a transponder chip in the key to ensure that its actually the key being used instead of being hot wired or anything like that. Before i learned this, I made the mistake once of going out and just getting a random key cut. When I tried to start the car, it had the exact problem you have just described. The engine would turn over, but the factory alarm would disable to ignition, preventing the car from being started (so it couldnt be driven away without the factory key in the ignition).

Based on what you have described, my bet is that your alarm has some sort of system in place to disable the ignition if the ignition wiring has been tampered with, and since your son tore out the dash, there is a good chance the ignition system has been tampered with. My guess is its not a transponder key though, so thats about the extent of my helpfulness. But i would definitely track down the information on that alarm and see if that is the source of your issue.

ViperTT

Ok i got to the IH1 gray connector
the violet wire (purple) is on #3
#8 is a black wire with a red strip

i tested voltage on all the pins and slots and all are 0.00 volts to 0.02 volts
i got one that reads 12 volts it is one of the bigger plugs in the IH1 connector

i kind of need a wiring diagram of all this of which i do not have

i just wish my son had not striped all the paint of this truck! i would have hauled it into a shop a long time ago

THANK YOU ALL FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!!!

fustrated and wipped by a toyota

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

90-95 FSM

ViperTT

ok i will bite on the alarm thing!
if it is the alarm would that keep the check engine light from coming on??

i found the wire they cut and spliced the alarm in!
i cut those two wires and spliced it back to stock that did not help
but yes i am about to take the alarm completely out when i get back home

BamaYota1

Most decent alarms will have an ignition disable feature. Trace the wiring back from the ignition tumbler and check for splices.

ViperTT

ok i might be a bit bumb here on car alarms so i am sorry if i offend

right below the ing. key is a wide plug on the bottom side of the plug they cut the wire
it looks like an 8 or 10 guage wire then there are wires connecting over at the drivers
side fuse box.
these wires are spliced in useing crimp connectors

so if this alarm has a ignition disable feature if i had disconneted the power to the alarm
would that not reset the alarm??

i had cut the wire that was cut to connect the alarm and spliced those wires back together
would that not have disabled the alarm or do i need too cut the other wires too??? for the alarm system???

i will call my sun and ask him what alarm it is in that truck!

i just got 5 new gray hairs

toyota pickup 5 Dad 0 ~

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Engine cranks. CHECK
Coil & Ignitor, have power. CHECK

It's not the alarm, atleast not in the normal sense. These are the two things the alarm will disable(Starter and Ignition system).

Was this done with the ign switch to ON?

There should be 12v on pins 10(Black-green) and 16(White-red), these supply the ECM. Pin 10 is 12v constantly, pin16 is 12v with ign on. Pin 16 also supplies the power to the B+, but there is the splice between the IH1 plug and the computer and diag port.

Now back to the light not working. This is likely just due to a loose or dirty connection, either one of the plugs or the light socket insert.

scope103

I'm not sure what "the normal sense" is, but you may be jumping to conclusions here. If you pull out the EFI fuse you can crank the engine and the coil/ignitor will be powered, but it won't run because the ECU will not be powered.

Also, there will be no CEL with Key-On.

So perhaps there is an alarm disable in the ECU power line (black-green to A-1 on the ECU). That way, the engine would still crank, and our n'er-do-well wouldn't be cued to check for a cut-off switch.

Gotta have power to the ECU. All zeros on voltage means it can't run the truck.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Thanks scope that makes alot of sense. I haven't done an alarm install since carburators went out.. I wouldn't have choose that line, it'll reset the ECM memory.

I'd check A12(B+, White-red) we know it gets to the diag box but not to the computer.

EFI fuse -> EB2(#1) -> IH1(pin #10,you had no power here)

So the fuse is bad or there is a disconnect somewhere.

Oh the power you found at IH1 before was likely pin#14, powers the injectors.

oldblue

i think you're trying to over analyze the problem. it ran before you took a bunch of ˟˟˟˟ apart and now it doesnt. i wouldnt be throwing parts at it. i'd be re-tracing your steps or your sons steps. something is most likely not connected. or connected wrong. is the coil wired correctly?

ViperTT

ok im back for more punishment!!

i did some volt test
at the plug for the ignition switch wire as follows

white with red strip 13.7 volts key on and off
white with green zipper line 13.7 volts key on and off
blue with red strip off 0.00v on 13.7v
black red strip off 0.00v on 13.7v
straight black wire off 0.00v on 0.00v crank 13.7v
blue with yellow strip 13.7 volts on and off
green with red strip off 0.00v on 13.7v
black with yellow strip off 0.00v on 13.7v


just going to list the connectors that have voltage

ok on the IH1 connector

male side

pin 3 off 0.00v on 13.7v violet or purple??
pin 10 on or off 13.7v black with green stripe
pin 14 off 0.00v on 13.7v black with red stripe
pin 16 off 0.005v on 13.7v white with red stripe
pin 20 off 0.005 on 0.125 green with blue stripe
pin 23 off 0.005v on 13.7v green with yellow stripe

female side of IH1

pin 5 off 0.00v on 0.056v
pin 10 off or on 0.015v
pin 16 off 0.00v on 0.562v
pin 20 off 0.015v on 0.387v

at the diag box under the hood by the battery

B+ is 13.7 volts
w now has 13.7 volts

but when i touch w with a test light the bulb is dull
at the B+ the bulb is bright

i have completely removed the alarm system!!

i have put all new bulbs in the instrument panel

and still i can not get that dam check engine light to come on
or get spark out of the coil

gggrrrrrrr

toyota 6 Dad 0

ViperTT

could that EFI relay in the main fuse box by the battery be bad??
would that thing make the check engine light not come on and no spark??

well i swaped the relays and that was no help

ViperTT

if i ground the violet wire at the IH1 male plug i can get the check engine light to come
on

so what does this mean? or better yet or not mean??

every plug 'wire' that from all of your guy's help that suppost to have power has power

i have 2 ecu's same with both of them

the W on the diag port fuse box by the battery
that W got me stumped it has 12volts but with the test light the test light bulb is dull not bright??? but 12vots???