93 4Runner brake work
#1
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93 4Runner brake work
I just recently posted another thread about my 4Runners new starting problem, but it also needs some other TLC. I'm thinking of completely redoing the brakes, lines and all, and have priced all the parts. I'm just curious if anyone has done this before, how much of a PITA it is vs spending big bucks to have a shop run the lines.
I'm also facing the demise of my rear end suspension. My passenger side shock mount has broken free and the hangers are'nt looking so good either. I've seen some good ideas for the shock mount, but hav'nt come across anything for the hangers. If you have any pics or drawings of hangers you've made to remedy this problem I'm sure I could have a metal shop fab up the parts to be welded on. Thanks for any help.
I'm also facing the demise of my rear end suspension. My passenger side shock mount has broken free and the hangers are'nt looking so good either. I've seen some good ideas for the shock mount, but hav'nt come across anything for the hangers. If you have any pics or drawings of hangers you've made to remedy this problem I'm sure I could have a metal shop fab up the parts to be welded on. Thanks for any help.
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most of it's fairly easily accessible... except for the lines to the rear / lspv which run along the frame next to the gas tank. if they're not corroded I wouldn't bother with them.
#3
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On my truck the rear lines were in the worst shape so do check those. Overall what you want to do just takes time but is not to difficult.
I did a front brake job last weekend and it is straightforward, but you will want to have extra pins for the caliers ($2 each at the dealer, 2 per caliper) and use the old brake pads to compress the pistons in the calipers using a c-clamp (the FSM says to use a hammer handle).
As far as cost goes this job is way cheaper as a DIY than paying a shop or the dealer to do it.
I did a front brake job last weekend and it is straightforward, but you will want to have extra pins for the caliers ($2 each at the dealer, 2 per caliper) and use the old brake pads to compress the pistons in the calipers using a c-clamp (the FSM says to use a hammer handle).
As far as cost goes this job is way cheaper as a DIY than paying a shop or the dealer to do it.
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Thanks for the info guys, I'm going to be dropping the gas tank to do the work on the rear passenger shock mount so I should be able to get in there. I'm also considering replacing everything, calipers, rotors, drums, wheel cylinders, etc. The cost to replace everything while I'm at it will still be 1/4 of what the shop would cost.
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