93 4Runner 22re cold starting issues
#1
93 4Runner 22re cold starting issues
Hey guys, since winters really come into full swing I've noticed my 4Runner is in need of some attention. Right now it seems to start when it feels like. First thing in the morning it will either click once and not turn over or turn over very slow. I've tried starting it every 15 minutes or so untill the afternoon, thinking I almost killed the battery. Later that night I went to try again and it started up first turn of the key. It seems like the starter is worn or something to me but just is'nt making sense. Also, I noticed it idled slightly high for the past few months, around 2k or just under. When you put it in gear (auto) it jumps right down to 1k exactly with your foot on the brake. I've read some of the threads here about coldstarting issues talking about the cold start injector, maf, etc. Does anyone have any ideas if thats what my problem is as well? There are no warning lights on the dash I should add. Thanks for any help.
#2
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
Likes: 16
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
First off, it doesn't sound like an issue with the cold start system. It sounds more like you simply have bad battery connections. Or, the solenoid connection is weak. Or, the solenoid itself is begining to wear out. Clean the connections really well and see where that gets you.
High idle could be a number of things. Might even be related to the possible weak connections. EFI gets cranky with poor voltage supply. Regardless, here's the '93 factory manual......
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html
And, the troubleshooting guide...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3troubles.pdf
If cleaning the connections doesn't correct anything, follow the guide according to the symptoms and make note of the components the guide points out as possibilities. Then, browse through the "engine" section, find "MFI systems" under your motor...22re. It lists the components and explains how to troubleshoot them.
Post back up with any questions that may arise.
High idle could be a number of things. Might even be related to the possible weak connections. EFI gets cranky with poor voltage supply. Regardless, here's the '93 factory manual......
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html
And, the troubleshooting guide...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3troubles.pdf
If cleaning the connections doesn't correct anything, follow the guide according to the symptoms and make note of the components the guide points out as possibilities. Then, browse through the "engine" section, find "MFI systems" under your motor...22re. It lists the components and explains how to troubleshoot them.
Post back up with any questions that may arise.
#3
I was actually downloading the manual while I was posting here. I've started going through the troubleshooting and from what I can gather, it uses numbers to prioritize possibilities, its either the engine coolant temp sensor or maf. I've cleaned both but I'm going to start cleaning up the grounds as well.
This morning when I tried again, it almost sounded like it wanted to start, but more uneven chugging. Thinking wires, coil/igniter may be going now. Are there any other reasons it would turn over the way I described? I'm also going to look for a code reader, I'm just not sure if its worth it. I've never really used one before and to my understanding the 22re has OBDI, will it show me any usefull info?
Thanks for the help.
This morning when I tried again, it almost sounded like it wanted to start, but more uneven chugging. Thinking wires, coil/igniter may be going now. Are there any other reasons it would turn over the way I described? I'm also going to look for a code reader, I'm just not sure if its worth it. I've never really used one before and to my understanding the 22re has OBDI, will it show me any usefull info?
Thanks for the help.
Last edited by Bigscotian; Jan 3, 2009 at 06:14 AM.
#4
You don't need a code reader- you probably already have one laying around: a short piece of wire or a paperclip. 
Open the little diagnostic connector on the side of the fuse block behind the battery and insert the jumper between the TE1 and E1 terminals in the connector, then go inside the truck and turn the key to 'on' but don't start the engine. Watch and count the check engine light flash. It'll flash codes, if any are stored, like this: say code 21 is stored- you'll get two flashes, a short pause, one flash, then a long pause and then it'll repeat. If there is more than one code stored, it'll flash out all the codes in a similar manner then go back to the beginning and start flashing them out again. If there are no codes stored it'll just be a continuous flashing- on off on off on off on off etc.

Open the little diagnostic connector on the side of the fuse block behind the battery and insert the jumper between the TE1 and E1 terminals in the connector, then go inside the truck and turn the key to 'on' but don't start the engine. Watch and count the check engine light flash. It'll flash codes, if any are stored, like this: say code 21 is stored- you'll get two flashes, a short pause, one flash, then a long pause and then it'll repeat. If there is more than one code stored, it'll flash out all the codes in a similar manner then go back to the beginning and start flashing them out again. If there are no codes stored it'll just be a continuous flashing- on off on off on off on off etc.
#5
Thanks alot for the info, I thought I had read something about that but could'nt find it again. Should save me a few bucks.
I went out this afternoon, after some sun had started hitting the truck I should add, and it started up as though there were no problems at all. I should mention the battery was basically dead I thought from my earlier attempts. I was going to put it on to charge this afternoon. At any rate, it's running, and better than before to be honest. It idles right on 1k instead of 2k like it had before. I had sprayed and cleaned the contacts for the maf and sprayed around the engine coolant temp sensor with contact cleaner. I'm also thinking since it started up fine and would start to sputter when cold was likely lack of fuel from frozen lines, I'm hoping. I went right down and got some gasline antifreeze and some injector cleaner as well.
Do you know where a list of the codes might be abe?
I went out this afternoon, after some sun had started hitting the truck I should add, and it started up as though there were no problems at all. I should mention the battery was basically dead I thought from my earlier attempts. I was going to put it on to charge this afternoon. At any rate, it's running, and better than before to be honest. It idles right on 1k instead of 2k like it had before. I had sprayed and cleaned the contacts for the maf and sprayed around the engine coolant temp sensor with contact cleaner. I'm also thinking since it started up fine and would start to sputter when cold was likely lack of fuel from frozen lines, I'm hoping. I went right down and got some gasline antifreeze and some injector cleaner as well.
Do you know where a list of the codes might be abe?
#6
you can try here: http://troublecodes.net/Toyota
but it's not a complete list... more like an amalgamation of codes from different years and such, and some of the codes mean different things based on the engine.
If you post any codes you get here, we'll help you figure it out.
but it's not a complete list... more like an amalgamation of codes from different years and such, and some of the codes mean different things based on the engine.
If you post any codes you get here, we'll help you figure it out.
#7
I just checked the codes, its just flashing constantly so I'm hoping the problem was water in the gas line. I'm going to try starting it later tonight, which is would usually start anyways, and hopefully it will start again in the morning. Thanks for the help.
Trending Topics
#8
I went out this morning to start the 4Runner and it did, not without some effort. It rolled over again as though it were only running on 2 cylinders a few times before it finally caught and was running very rough. After running for a minute or so it cleared up and started running smooth. I'm starting to feel like I'm just grabbing at straws but does it sound to anyone else like its my plugs/wires/coil/igniter?
#9
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
Likes: 16
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Hmmm.....I think I'd start by testing the coolant temp sensor. It's impossible to test it well on the vehicle, so you'll need to pull it. You can either drain your coolant, or do like me and stick a cork in the hole once the sensor is out. You'll lose a little coolant that way, but to me it's easier than draining it all and refilling. So, your choice, eh.
Here's the FSM...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...40engineco.pdf
Stick the sensor in a pot water of cold water on the stove with a thermometer. Note at what temp the water is and check the resistance. If it's not in spec, then replace, of course. If it is, start heating the water then check the resistance as the water temp rises. Resistance should steadily rise as the water gets hotter.
Hope this helps....
Here's the FSM...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...40engineco.pdf
Stick the sensor in a pot water of cold water on the stove with a thermometer. Note at what temp the water is and check the resistance. If it's not in spec, then replace, of course. If it is, start heating the water then check the resistance as the water temp rises. Resistance should steadily rise as the water gets hotter.
Hope this helps....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Team420
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
4
Jan 12, 2021 04:57 PM
jmc88runner
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
3
Jun 18, 2015 03:39 PM




