93 22re injector problem
Oct 8, 2016 | 03:27 AM
#21
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Hmm, I must have glazed over the part about the clicking randomly, forgive me. I think injector pulse will happen regardless of an operational fuel pump or not. But having them just sort of go off on their own is something else entirely. Could be something funky like the injector drivers having gone out. Or the signal to the driver corrupted from interference (spark plug wires?) / faulty distributor. Do you have access to noid lights (to plug into the injector harness), if you have 4 of them you can visibly see which injectors are firing and which aren't and when. The injector driver, if I recall correctly, fires in batches, meaning 2 injectors fire at the same time, then the other 2. While watching you can probably see if it's just 2 injectors randomly going off, or all 4. If it was just 2 I would lean towards a bad injector driver, if its all of them I would think the signal to the driver from the distributor is bad.
Oct 8, 2016 | 06:29 AM
#22
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So, noid set only had one that fits my injector plugs...but anyhow results were steady light on #1. Random flickering on 3&4. Keeps getting stranger haha. Those aren't even proper batch pair right? This test was just key to on no cranking. So I think we know that it's 3&4 flooding her. Is it time to order a computer now?
Oct 8, 2016 | 12:56 PM
#23
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the factory wiring diagram shows that the injectors are paired up, but in reality they are tied together in the harness, to all fire at once, not in pairs... the joint where they are tied together has been a source of problems for a number of people out here, do a search.
at any rate, putting a noid light on the injectors doesn't tell you why they are firing, when the key is on but the engine isn't running and isn't even being turned over by the starter.
the point that was made earlier about fuel regulator leaking was good, i wonder if there is more than one problem here.
at any rate, putting a noid light on the injectors doesn't tell you why they are firing, when the key is on but the engine isn't running and isn't even being turned over by the starter.
the point that was made earlier about fuel regulator leaking was good, i wonder if there is more than one problem here.
Oct 9, 2016 | 02:11 AM
#25
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yea OSV, I've checked the fuel regulator before. But I killed power to fuel pump. To fight one prob at a time. Pump was wired to ign on by po for anyone catching up. I didn't think it should get pulse signal without distributor spinning either. Injectors 3&4 are randomly going to grnd with key on. I'm sure more than one issue with her but I want injectors stop opening like that first. Normally I'd crank it over to test injector harness with noids but this issue is key on injectors operating craziness. Thx guys I'm running out of ideas.
Oct 9, 2016 | 11:46 AM
#26
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yea OSV, I've checked the fuel regulator before. But I killed power to fuel pump. To fight one prob at a time. Pump was wired to ign on by po for anyone catching up. I didn't think it should get pulse signal without distributor spinning either. Injectors 3&4 are randomly going to grnd with key on. I'm sure more than one issue with her but I want injectors stop opening like that first. Normally I'd crank it over to test injector harness with noids but this issue is key on injectors operating craziness. Thx guys I'm running out of ideas.
I took a pic of inside ecu, do u guys agree there's a scortch mark near center of pic above little red transistor? This truck was welded on a lot over the years. Could this be the weirdness? Maybe the welding machine fried the ecu? Asking a lot of y'all but I'm losing confidence here lol.
Oct 10, 2016 | 09:43 AM
#27
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She's toast dude!
You need a new(used) ECU.
Remove the jimmy rigged wiring.
Check for melted or pinched wiring around the Intake manifold, Especially around the EGR Hot tubes.
I took a pic of inside ecu, do u guys agree there's a scortch mark near center of pic above little red transistor? This truck was welded on a lot over the years. Could this be the weirdness? Maybe the welding machine fried the ecu? Asking a lot of y'all but I'm losing confidence here lol.
Last edited by Racersk; Oct 10, 2016 at 09:45 AM.
Oct 11, 2016 | 08:36 AM
#28
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you can tell if something is burned by sticking your nose next to the area, it will stink if it's burned.
you can also remove the board from the case, if it's burned the backside will probably also show some kind of damage... just be sure and ground yourself before handing the ecu, and try to touch it by the edges only.
the center cap out of that group of three capacitors looks like it might be leaking? can't tell for sure from the pic... when a cap goes bad it usually swells up, not really seeing that here.
you can also remove the board from the case, if it's burned the backside will probably also show some kind of damage... just be sure and ground yourself before handing the ecu, and try to touch it by the edges only.
the center cap out of that group of three capacitors looks like it might be leaking? can't tell for sure from the pic... when a cap goes bad it usually swells up, not really seeing that here.
Oct 13, 2016 | 11:13 AM
#29
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you can tell if something is burned by sticking your nose next to the area, it will stink if it's burned.
you can also remove the board from the case, if it's burned the backside will probably also show some kind of damage... just be sure and ground yourself before handing the ecu, and try to touch it by the edges only.
the center cap out of that group of three capacitors looks like it might be leaking? can't tell for sure from the pic... when a cap goes bad it usually swells up, not really seeing that here.
you can also remove the board from the case, if it's burned the backside will probably also show some kind of damage... just be sure and ground yourself before handing the ecu, and try to touch it by the edges only.
the center cap out of that group of three capacitors looks like it might be leaking? can't tell for sure from the pic... when a cap goes bad it usually swells up, not really seeing that here.
Oct 13, 2016 | 01:06 PM
#30
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From: Barrie, Ontario CANADA
You dont need the same ecu number But manual/auto are different (auto will work with some modifying) and there are 2 differnt plug types from 89-95. 92ish they changed but you will get mix and match with Toyota. If the plugs are right shape and 22re manual, it will work.
Oct 24, 2016 | 10:24 AM
#31
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You dont need the same ecu number But manual/auto are different (auto will work with some modifying) and there are 2 differnt plug types from 89-95. 92ish they changed but you will get mix and match with Toyota. If the plugs are right shape and 22re manual, it will work.
Nov 12, 2016 | 10:30 AM
#32
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