adam93

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osv

is it throwing any codes?

do the newer 22re's have this same circuit open relay? there is a test for it here http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

adam93

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MMA_Alex

Just so you know the circuit opening relay will only give the fuel pump power, when the engine is being cranked over, or while its running. It will not just run with the key in the on position. You can bypass that with the B+ to FP connector. If it still didn't run with that jumped the circuit opening relay isn't the issue

From the symptoms it seems like an electrical issue. Did you check your EFI fuse (Theres a fuse and a relay)?

92ehatch

Does it hit at all? If starting fluid won't make it hit and jumping the diagnostic didn't either then i don't think chasing a fuel issue will fix it.

Sounds like potentially two issues.


Mechanical timing ok?

You said you have spark but is it a good spark. Bright white or blue or yellow/orange.

adam93

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adam93

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osv

yes, it'll have to be troubleshot and fixed, even if it's not the root cause behind the engine failing to fire.

it sounded to me like there could be a couple of problems; co relay-related, and this complete failure to fire, even with spark and fuel present, which is bizarre... even if the timing was way off, there should have been something??

there is a single cold-start injector on the plenum, that i think briefly pumps some fuel in when the engine is cold, might be worth checking as well.

RJR

Pull a plug or two and check compression. It sounds like there could be a valve problem.

adam93

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adam93

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92ehatch

Could it be that you have emptied the fuel lines while trying to start it with no power to the pump and then when you jumped b to fp you just didn't give it enough time to get fuel back.

How long did you let it try to start with the test jumper.

Could be that the pump not getting power is the only issue you have

adam93

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92ehatch

Watch the video ladybugrc posted in his build thread and look at how long it took to get fuel to his truck on first startup.

It may be worth revisiting

RJR

OK, let's break this down. One thing at a time. Can't speculate on cause until you've done adequate research.

There are three things that an engine needs to run. If all three are properly present, it will run.
1) Spark - at the proper time
2) Fuel - in the proper fuel/air mixture
3) Compression - valves are working at the right time.

So, here's what I would suggest.
1) Grab your timing light (no timing light-head to Harbor Freight and spend $20). Clip it on to the #1 plug wire, crank the engine, and verify that the spark occurs just before the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer pulley.

2) Pull the #1 plug, and using a dowel or soda straw, ensure that the piston is at TDC when the mark on the harmonic balancer says it is.

3) Pull all the plugs. Check them for excess fuel, oil, and/or strange deposits. Then check compression. Again, a cheap compression gauge is only about $15-20 and will tell you everything you need to know as to whether you have adequate compression to run.

4) If spark and compression are in order, then the problem is in the fuel delivery system. It could be (a) a lack of fuel, in which case spraying starter fluid into the intake should get it to fire and run briefly, or (b) an excess of fuel (too rich a mixture), in which case it will not run with starter fluid - the too-rich mixture simply won't fire. (If this is the case, you should have noticed that the plugs were wet with fuel when you pulled them.)

A too-rich mixture can be caused by a cold-start injector running amok (stuck on). You stated that the engine started and ran briefly with the CSI removed. Remove it again, replace the air intake plumbing so the fuel pump will run (or jumper Fp to B+), and see what happens.

Keep in mind that, with the air intake disconnected from the throttle body, the fuel pump will not run unless Fp is jumpered to B+ in the diag connector. The VAFM has a safety cutoff switch that only enables the fuel pump if air is flowing through it. And, as has been noted before, even with everything working properly, the fuel pump will not run before starting until you are actually cranking the engine, so you likely wouldn't hear it then unless someone is listening carefully at the fuel tank. You won't hear it with the engine off and the key on.

bjc406

I recently had a similar issue with my '92 22re 4wd. I bled off all fuel pressure at the CSI, tried to both crank and jumper B+ to Fp to see if I got pressure back....nothing. Checked all fuses under the hood and in the kick panel, and got light on my test light. Checked for spark and had good color.
I could get the truck to fire briefly by propping open the MAF, loading the air intake with starter fluid, putting the airbox back together and cranking. Replaced fuel pump and fuel filter....still wouldn't start. Then I remembered a post I saw reminding me to check fuses in and out of the box...Pulled the EFI fuse under the hood and it was blown. Replaced and it started right up. What failed when??? I have no idea, but it runs again.

adam93

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92ehatch

How did a fuel filter stop power from getting to the pump. Unless you checked it incorrectly and didn't realize it.

Glad you got it running though

adam93

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bjc406

I always feel kind of conflicted when it turns out to be something simple after working on it for days. Congrats!