92 TOY's 22re / crapped out / gotta start somewhere / thread
#281
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Hey welcome to the party.
No I'm not intending on re-using the head gaket. I meant it looks like it was not the cause of my problem....which segways to my other comment.....the timing chain guide was gone so it ate into my cover and there was evidence (besides the milky oil) that it ate in far enough to allow the water leak.....so that's why i'm taking the timing cover off.
being the newbie i am, can i do the starter trick with the head and all that other stuff off, so could someone detail how you do it.(i did not SEARCH that, so feel free to flame me on it) my battery is conveniently laying on the floor under my truck so if i just need to hook to the starter with it, it's ready.
No I'm not intending on re-using the head gaket. I meant it looks like it was not the cause of my problem....which segways to my other comment.....the timing chain guide was gone so it ate into my cover and there was evidence (besides the milky oil) that it ate in far enough to allow the water leak.....so that's why i'm taking the timing cover off.
being the newbie i am, can i do the starter trick with the head and all that other stuff off, so could someone detail how you do it.(i did not SEARCH that, so feel free to flame me on it) my battery is conveniently laying on the floor under my truck so if i just need to hook to the starter with it, it's ready.
#282
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gotcha. i was a little worried cuz i thought you were gonna reuse the head gasket. when i changed my timing chain, my right side guide was gone as well, and i have 2 grooves also. however, i never had a problem. i only changed my chain when i first got the truck as a precaution. (by the way, i'm not necessarily "advising" this, but i never dropped the oil pan to get the chain guide chunks out. they're still in there, somewhere, and i've been driving just fine for about 5 years that way now).
wait till someone else replies also, but as far as i know, you could still do the starter trick. i don't believe turning the engine for a fraction of a second will damage anything (no oil in engine other than residual). the problem is, you have lots of electrical connectors off, none of which i know of which ones you need to send the electrical message to the starter to engage. so i don't even know if it's physically and electrically possible at this point. try the jack trick again, but this time with an open end wrench instead of a socket, it might make a difference cuz the socket/ratchet/extension combo won't be twisting. (again, you'll have to have the truck in gear with someone stomping on the brakes).
anyways, back to the starter trick, assuming a normally functioning engine. looking at the engine (at the front facing rear), while it's running (or in this case starting), the crank pulley will turn clockwise. this is important. instead of turning the bolt and keeping the pulley still, you are doing the opposite. you are turning the pulley and keeping the bolt still. to do this, you'll need some kind of tool (ratchet, wrench, breaker bar) that is long enough to attach to the pulley bolt and the other end will have to have firm contact with something sturdy. by "sturdy", i am highly suggesting the frame. make sure you put it on the CORRECT side of whatever sturdy feature you use, otherwise when you turn the engine your tool is going to go flying intil it hits something else sturdy, or worse, something else not sturdy and breaks it, or worse, hits a person. ouch. once the tool is in position (feel free to hold it in position with duct tape or whatever so you don't have to hold it with your hand), just barely tap the starter. if you were going to actually start your truck, it should not be enough rotation to actually start it. that's how little you are going to be turning it over. 1 of 2 things will happen. you'll break your socket or the bolt will come loose. here's the fun part, it's no longer in TDC. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT IT BACK IN TDC!! and that's the starter trick!
wait till someone else replies also, but as far as i know, you could still do the starter trick. i don't believe turning the engine for a fraction of a second will damage anything (no oil in engine other than residual). the problem is, you have lots of electrical connectors off, none of which i know of which ones you need to send the electrical message to the starter to engage. so i don't even know if it's physically and electrically possible at this point. try the jack trick again, but this time with an open end wrench instead of a socket, it might make a difference cuz the socket/ratchet/extension combo won't be twisting. (again, you'll have to have the truck in gear with someone stomping on the brakes).
anyways, back to the starter trick, assuming a normally functioning engine. looking at the engine (at the front facing rear), while it's running (or in this case starting), the crank pulley will turn clockwise. this is important. instead of turning the bolt and keeping the pulley still, you are doing the opposite. you are turning the pulley and keeping the bolt still. to do this, you'll need some kind of tool (ratchet, wrench, breaker bar) that is long enough to attach to the pulley bolt and the other end will have to have firm contact with something sturdy. by "sturdy", i am highly suggesting the frame. make sure you put it on the CORRECT side of whatever sturdy feature you use, otherwise when you turn the engine your tool is going to go flying intil it hits something else sturdy, or worse, something else not sturdy and breaks it, or worse, hits a person. ouch. once the tool is in position (feel free to hold it in position with duct tape or whatever so you don't have to hold it with your hand), just barely tap the starter. if you were going to actually start your truck, it should not be enough rotation to actually start it. that's how little you are going to be turning it over. 1 of 2 things will happen. you'll break your socket or the bolt will come loose. here's the fun part, it's no longer in TDC. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT IT BACK IN TDC!! and that's the starter trick!
#283
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oh and i really hope you enjoyed my artwork on the starter trick. feel free to print it off and put it in a frame for your living room wall! just don't sell it without the artists prior consent! lol
#284
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OH! and one more thing. batteries do NOT like to be set on cement floors! i learned this the hard way with my motorcycle battery a few winters ago. my battery was toast in the spring, even after charging it. get it off the cement! your best best is to put it on a wooden shelf or something with a battery tender attached to it. i don't know why, but it is true. hell, even in the bed of the truck would be fine, just as long as it's not on cement.
#285
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Ok thanks for the BEAUTIFUL artwork, I'm speechless. uh, I assume you saw my artwork on my block, so your's is waaaay better!
I'm tied up with work until wednesday so i don't anticipate touching the truck until then other than touching it with my coffee cup.
I appreciate the info on the starter trick, I will re-read several times before attempting it, i still have all my teeth in my mouth and would like to keep them where they are.
I'm tied up with work until wednesday so i don't anticipate touching the truck until then other than touching it with my coffee cup.
I appreciate the info on the starter trick, I will re-read several times before attempting it, i still have all my teeth in my mouth and would like to keep them where they are.
#286
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well, be sure to take the time to move your battery. if you leave it there for an extended amount of time, it will destroy your battery. and batteries are hella expensive right now for some reason. i've heard an "average" car battery is like $85 right now cuz the price of lead has skyrocketed! it's well worth the 30 seconds it will take to move your battery off the floor!
#287
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As for the battery issue...This is what I have heard. Way back when they used to make batteries with wooded boxes and the insides were glass. When you put them on the cold cement the the temp difference would crack the glass (Mainly in the winter) and there for ruin the battery.
I still put mine on a wooded plank than have them sitting on the floor though.
How true this is I'm not sure but just what I had heard.
I still put mine on a wooded plank than have them sitting on the floor though.
How true this is I'm not sure but just what I had heard.
#288
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hey 92, don't know if you saw my other post about that fuel line banjo bolt or not but i know we were talking about it earlier. anyways, when you re-install that (obviously after you order your washers), BE CAREFUL. i stripped out my bolt and now it's useless. it's an even bigger gas leak than when i had no washers. grrrrr, can't get that banjo bolt from anywhere, now i gotta order it from the dealership. and be stranded for a few more days. awesome. i'm just hoping my cold start injector (the mating part) is ok. cuz if i have to replace that, it's $185 from toyota. $130 aftermarket.
#289
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check summitracing.com , when i was looking for crush washers i saw something like "earl's" something-or-other and when i searched it i got on the holley.com site. it had a banjo bolt show, looked just like our's. might be worth a look. how the heall did you ruin that. seems like it threads easy,, did you cross-thread???
just got home(15hrs), gotta run, gotta be back there for another marathon tomorrow.
just got home(15hrs), gotta run, gotta be back there for another marathon tomorrow.
#290
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check summitracing.com , when i was looking for crush washers i saw something like "earl's" something-or-other and when i searched it i got on the holley.com site. it had a banjo bolt show, looked just like our's. might be worth a look. how the heall did you ruin that. seems like it threads easy,, did you cross-thread???
just got home(15hrs), gotta run, gotta be back there for another marathon tomorrow.
just got home(15hrs), gotta run, gotta be back there for another marathon tomorrow.
#1, it's absolutely possible i cross threaded it. when i first removed my intake i missed removing that line, so i was fighting my intake for awhile before i realized what was still holding it on, lol. when i finally realized it, the line was bent out of position quite a bit. upon reinstallation, i had a helluva time getting it lined up cuz that's a pretty stout line and i didn't want to grab the fitting (or the tube) with pliers for fear of damaging the smooth edges or crimping the tube. anyways, i got it close and used the bolt to kinda line it up the rest of the way. so yes, cross threading is ABSOLUTELY a possibility, and quite likely, really.
or #2, before i realized my washers were missing, i tried to tighten the bolt past the leak. it didn't work, obviously, but it's possible i damaged the threads doing that too. i'm just worried that the threads are F'd up in the cold start injector. that would really suck.
#292
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i dunno, i can't tell if it's stripped. i know for sure the bolt is stripped though. so i'm hoping that if the threads are damaged on the bolt, then the female threads were the "stronger" of the 2, and caused the bolt to strip and not the cold start injector threads. i'm "hoping". . . .
#293
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Wanted to use my thread as a sounding-board to give proper credit to a good egg.
"LUMPY", helped me out tremendously today.
I owe ya' one. If you ever travel to Northeast PA, I owe you a beer (or about a thousand in this case).
Goes to show, once again, that I am lucky to belong to this YOTATECH community.
"LUMPY", helped me out tremendously today.
I owe ya' one. If you ever travel to Northeast PA, I owe you a beer (or about a thousand in this case).
Goes to show, once again, that I am lucky to belong to this YOTATECH community.
#294
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good! so you got your engine back in one piece then?
oh, and fyi, my cold start injector was/is definitely boogered up. gonna go pick up a tap/die set when my wife gets home (and i'm not stranded here) and try to clean up the threads enough to install it.
oh, and fyi, my cold start injector was/is definitely boogered up. gonna go pick up a tap/die set when my wife gets home (and i'm not stranded here) and try to clean up the threads enough to install it.
#295
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#296
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Man that sucks!!! Sorry to hear about that...
Na we were playing Geek today. Hopefully we got everything squared out this mornin.
#297
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LUMPY...thanks again man.
Now back to the show.
I'm curious about the "bump the starter" trick.
I understand about the placement of the bar on the nut and that the engine is going to go clock-wise, where do I touch the wires to? I guess in that case I will be safely UNDER the truck out of the way of a flying breaker bar if that happens which it sounds like it won't.
And, oh yeah, AYOUNG101, hope a tap does it for you to get your threads right. I saw you had couple threads about it, so I'm losing your progress, so let us now how it works out. Good luck.
Now back to the show.
I'm curious about the "bump the starter" trick.
I understand about the placement of the bar on the nut and that the engine is going to go clock-wise, where do I touch the wires to? I guess in that case I will be safely UNDER the truck out of the way of a flying breaker bar if that happens which it sounds like it won't.
And, oh yeah, AYOUNG101, hope a tap does it for you to get your threads right. I saw you had couple threads about it, so I'm losing your progress, so let us now how it works out. Good luck.
#298
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LUMPY...thanks again man.
Now back to the show.
I'm curious about the "bump the starter" trick.
I understand about the placement of the bar on the nut and that the engine is going to go clock-wise, where do I touch the wires to? I guess in that case I will be safely UNDER the truck out of the way of a flying breaker bar if that happens which it sounds like it won't.
And, oh yeah, AYOUNG101, hope a tap does it for you to get your threads right. I saw you had couple threads about it, so I'm losing your progress, so let us now how it works out. Good luck.
Now back to the show.
I'm curious about the "bump the starter" trick.
I understand about the placement of the bar on the nut and that the engine is going to go clock-wise, where do I touch the wires to? I guess in that case I will be safely UNDER the truck out of the way of a flying breaker bar if that happens which it sounds like it won't.
And, oh yeah, AYOUNG101, hope a tap does it for you to get your threads right. I saw you had couple threads about it, so I'm losing your progress, so let us now how it works out. Good luck.
as for me, SUCCESS! removed the injector, tapped the hole, blew it out with an air hose, put it all back together and it works great! hooray! (fyi, if you need to know, it's an M8x1.0 thread). also, just for giggles, and because i wanted to try out my new tool set (didn't have tap & die set, just went to harbor freight and bought a set just for this job!), i put a die on the OLD bolt, the one that i originally goobered up. it cleaned up surprisingly nicely! i'm pretty sure it'll work like new now! wish i would tried that to begin with, coulda saved $8 on a new bolt. so if you DO end up screwing yours up, let me know, i got a spare!
#299
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You've GOT to be kidding me!
Is that starter seriously gonna work? I have so much stuff unplugged that I don't know what the hell I was unplugging and it's gonna still work? I was sure I was way too far gone for that.
Here I am thinking I have to defibrillate the damn thing while laying on the garage floor and trying not to die with 2 live wires to 2 bolts or something like that.
I seriously am too much of a pessimist or I am over-thinking the hell out of it. At least I don't have to get under the truck.
Is that starter seriously gonna work? I have so much stuff unplugged that I don't know what the hell I was unplugging and it's gonna still work? I was sure I was way too far gone for that.
Here I am thinking I have to defibrillate the damn thing while laying on the garage floor and trying not to die with 2 live wires to 2 bolts or something like that.
I seriously am too much of a pessimist or I am over-thinking the hell out of it. At least I don't have to get under the truck.
Last edited by 92 TOY; 10-14-2009 at 05:24 PM.