Blackbeardsghost

Title is slightly misleading - I've been experiencing an off-time ticking noise that persists throughout the operation of my vehicle and I've been trying to narrow down the potential culprit. I checked the alternator, changed the sparkplugs and I did the valve clearance adjustment by the book. After I was finished I connected all wiring and hose lines that I disconnected and fired up my pickup without a problem. I took it on an approximately 20 mile drive and had no issues nor any indication of issues. The next day rolls around, fired it up again and drove it to work. 9 hours later I finished work and took it on the same 20ish mile drive. This is when the problem arose. Roughly 2 miles from home I lost any throttle response and I start hearing the engine lose power and eventually coast to a stop 500 ft. later and the engine cuts. It cranks but it will not start. So far I've checked the fuel pump, distributor, valves, timing chain, timing, and tried to get the check engine light to throw a code, but it blinked 'all systems normal'.
I am at a loss. I am fairly new to detailed mechanical work, before this I've been able to do the easy stuff such as oil changes, brakes, general maintenance, etc. My dad is fairly mechanically inclined and he is stumped as well. Any guidance or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I just want my mighty pickup to live again.

ToyoBoyo269

Did you test the Alternator? Mine recently failed in similar fashion as you described:
Quote: "I lose any throttle response and I start hearing the engine lose power and eventually coast to a stop 500 ft. later and the engine cuts. It cranks but it will not start."

Try jumping-starting your truck, if it putters to a stop after removed the jumper cables "there's your sign" and if it remains running and you have a multimeter, see if it gets readings over 13 Volts.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Are you getting fire to the plugs. I pull a plug and while cranking it see if it is getting spark.

To check for fuel, I pull the fuel line off of the rear of the fuel rail on a 22re and see if it will fill a quart jar in a minute or so.

Will it start with some starting fluid? That can tell me if it is a fuel or spark issue.

Then I see if my injectors are firing https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-22re-270857/

I do this after making sure all of my hoses, air flow meter, electrical connections are made.

Blackbeardsghost

I disconnected the delivery pipe from the cold start injector and was going to connect a gauge to it to measure the pressure, but couldn't quite figure out how to fit it all together. Instead I had my dad give the engine a crank with the delivery pipe still disconnected to see if fuel was being delivered to the system. It indeed was being delivered and delivered to the surrounding area within a ten foot radius without being connected.
I am getting fire to the plugs, I connected an induction timing light to the plug wires (I replaced the wires 1.5 years ago or so) and checked to see if they were firing at all and to see if it they were in the right sequence.
I haven't checked the alternator since doing the valve clearance adjustment because I checked it before with a multimeter and it was in the right range of voltage, but I will give another check tomorrow to see if it failed by coincidence.
I'll also throw together a noid light and test the connection when I get a chance.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

LOL...I have done the 10 foot fuel test myself. You got spark and fuel. I am assuming you have double checked your timing. If the noid light test fires off the LED, it means your computer is good but can still not pass enough voltage to fire the injector which could be the crimps in the wiring in some cases.

Another thing I ran into recently was a lot of trash in the injectors from nasty fuel tanks. I have cleaned them myself as long as they will "tick" or basically that they will function.