'92 4Runner rough idle and need a part number
#1
'92 4Runner power steering problem and need help and a part number
1st: I think I have read every power steering related post in 2 different forums. Can't find an answer but I am admittedly bad at wrenching.
I replaced my PS pump on my 3.0 the other day. I over tightened what I believe to be a pressure port union (or something close) stripping the threads. The longer bolt (2nd from the left) is the stripped piece. After researching it looks like it's only purpose it to allow a place for the vacuum line. I took this piece and story to my local dealership and they couldn't offer anything. No part number or advice.
I attempted to just just delete this vaccum line setup and after capping everything the truck idled like crap and runs terrible.
Now time for the questions. Will flushing the lines improve idle? I know there is air in the system just didn't have time to flush yet. I am also pretty sure I will need to bleed the rear brakes as well.
Ideally, I would like to delete that if not needed but if I do need these vaccum lines, I will need a part number to find this piece.
Where would y'all start? Thanks in advance
I replaced my PS pump on my 3.0 the other day. I over tightened what I believe to be a pressure port union (or something close) stripping the threads. The longer bolt (2nd from the left) is the stripped piece. After researching it looks like it's only purpose it to allow a place for the vacuum line. I took this piece and story to my local dealership and they couldn't offer anything. No part number or advice.
I attempted to just just delete this vaccum line setup and after capping everything the truck idled like crap and runs terrible.
Now time for the questions. Will flushing the lines improve idle? I know there is air in the system just didn't have time to flush yet. I am also pretty sure I will need to bleed the rear brakes as well.
Ideally, I would like to delete that if not needed but if I do need these vaccum lines, I will need a part number to find this piece.
Where would y'all start? Thanks in advance
Last edited by BP92; 07-12-2017 at 01:14 PM. Reason: Clearer title for more help
#3
From what I've read several people have removed them, but I could be confusing that with another part. But with that long bolt stripped I can't find a replacement. Toyota doesn't seem to have a part number according to my dealership.
I removed it and plugged the lines. Any idea what the longer stripped bolt is called or where to find one beside me a junk yard (I'd have a long drive to the nearest one)?
I removed it and plugged the lines. Any idea what the longer stripped bolt is called or where to find one beside me a junk yard (I'd have a long drive to the nearest one)?
#6
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I resealed the power steering pump on my cruiser and I'm pretty sure it's called the high pressure port but I can't find anything online about it like you said. If I remember I'll look at the factory service manual when I go home. And those vacuum lines do indeed make your rig idle higher at full lock so you probably want them. To get the air out of the system all you have to do is turn the truck on and keep turning the truck lock to lock both ways with the cap off the resivour and it will bleed the system. Just make sure you keep the resivour full. It probably wouldn't help your idle issue any though
#7
thanks man. I really appreciate the response.
Everything i I find only and at the dealership shows a much shorter pressure port.
The new pump came with a shorter one so I used that and removed those vaccum lines. I'm really hopeful I can bleed the system today but we will see.
Everything i I find only and at the dealership shows a much shorter pressure port.
The new pump came with a shorter one so I used that and removed those vaccum lines. I'm really hopeful I can bleed the system today but we will see.
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#8
Idle problem seems to have been fixed with been vaccum seal. No I only have power steering at higher RPMs. But I cranked it lock to lock nearly 20 times with no cap and I never saw any need to add fluid. At first my pump sounds like a wounded turkey but that sound seems to have gone away but no improvement in power steering.
ill try bleeding it some more later.
ill try bleeding it some more later.
#9
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Try reving the engine to like 1500 rpms then try to turn the wheel. If that pressure port is screwed up that could cause your problem also I would think since it's the pressure side.
#10
Actually unnoticed it was easier to turn at higher RPM. So let's pretend I'm an idiot. What do u mean the pressure port is screwed up? The bolt connecting the high pressure line to the pump or is in something internal on the pump?
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Alright in the picture you put on here. You have the banjo bolt then you have the pressure port that has the o rings on it. The one you said you cross threaded or whatever. You may have messed up that pressure port when you over tightened it. If that's what you are saying you over tightened. Some of this is seeming to get lost in translation here unfortunately. You need those two vacuum lines you got rid of also if you want normally functioning power steering
#12
Alright now I'm tracking (kinda). The original pump used that longer pressure union. The new pump came with a shorter pressure union. With the shorter one I have connected the high pressure lines and banjo bolt straight to the pump and there are no visible leaks from this arrangement. Are you suggesting I messed up the threads on the new pump? I would think there would be visible drips if this were the case.
Also, I do have power steering at higher RPM, just nothing at lower to idle.
Im sure there is stuff Lost in translation. This stuff is not in my wheelhouse. I greatly appreciate your continued effort to help.
Below low is a picture of the current setup. With no vaccum lines but the idle seems to be fine now even at full lock
Also, I do have power steering at higher RPM, just nothing at lower to idle.
Im sure there is stuff Lost in translation. This stuff is not in my wheelhouse. I greatly appreciate your continued effort to help.
Below low is a picture of the current setup. With no vaccum lines but the idle seems to be fine now even at full lock
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It's hard not knowing with out being there what exactly your problem is. But if you deleted that vacuum assist then I'm assuming that's what is causing your no power steering at idle but like I said it's really hard to diagnose what's wrong without being there.
#14
Alright, I'll keep searching for that longer pressure port part number. Probably have to take a weekend trip to a junk yard or send it to a shop but I have reservations about that since I've already screwed it up.
#15
Let me run something else past you. Every picture I find has this vaccum line valve attached directly to the PS pump. When I purchased this new pump, I noticed the high pressure output, the low pressure input, and a third threaded port of some sort. Now I'm wondering if this third port is used to directly thread the valve to the pump. Maybe there were two separate ways to attached this vaccum valve. Any thoughts?
I will again gain try calling the manufacturer to see if they can point me in the right direction.
I will again gain try calling the manufacturer to see if they can point me in the right direction.
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I mean that would make sense. Wouldn't hurt at all to try it. It did seem odd that they gave you a shorter pressure port with the new pump making it different from the factory setup but if there's another place to put that vacuum valve then that would make alot of sense
#17
Just resealed my PS pump this last weekend on a 1990 3vze. The air control valve screws directly in to the pump behind and below the high pressure port on a diagonal angle. There is a part in the reseal kit that goes in the port called "seat, union (for vane pump housing)". The conical side goes towards the air control valve, and torqued to 27 ft/lbs creates the seal to prevent ATF from leaking out over the valve. The part number for a '93 is 9041005035. ...But, yeah.... all the air valves I've seen on these 3vze pumps just screw directly in to the vane pump housing. The FSM shows it as such... That is a weird configuration indeed, with the longer high pressure port union tee'd off like that to that valve.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.