92 3VZE Cold Start Inj. Timing Switch
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92 3VZE Cold Start Inj. Timing Switch
Connector broke off the end of the switch. I don't like the price Toyota gave me and I cannot find one in my local Junkyard. I really don't think it gets cold enough in Souoth Mississippi for the switch, and was wondering if some one could tell me if jumping out the wires at the harness connection is what I need to do, or should I leave them alone? I don't know if the computer is looking for a closed switch when engine is at normal temp or if it is closed at cold temp. I would think at cold it would be closed.
Any info would be highly appreciated.
T-BONE
Any info would be highly appreciated.
T-BONE
#3
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It's a variable resistor, not really a on/off switch. With the coolant temp below 50 the resistance between the teminals should be 30-50 ohms and with the temp above 77 it should be 70-90 ohms. I would think if you put a resistor between the wires it would work OK. An 80 ohm one would tell the computer that the engine is warm and no cold start injector is needed. I guess you could get creative and add a switched circuit with a 40 ohm resistor if it gets to be a problem starting in the winter. You'd just have to remember to switch back when the engine warmed up.
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90Baggedtoy (11-15-2023)
#5
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Some folks just remove the cold start injector... makes for harder starting but once the engine has started it serves no purpose if I understand it correctly. If you remove it, block the plenum port. If it does not throw any codes, I'd say you are good to go.
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Easy coldstart by pass circuit
Deleted by poster for more consideration. It seems pretty east to trigger the CSI, but the ECM is still hooked up and looking for certain conditions. I 'm not at all sure about this.
Last edited by henrypaz; 09-28-2010 at 11:58 AM.
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more on cold-start-injector switch
Friends-
I recently took the time to sus out the wiring diagram of the CSI sw innards and how it fits into the trucks (1987 22RE ) ignition system. I replaced the switch with a small printed circuit board, four resistors, about 10 feet of wire, and a pushbutton switch which I activate from the cab ( before turning on the ignition key so th ECU will "see" it as being closed, rather than closing, if it should make any difference to the ECU). It seems to work pretty well so far. No smoke or badness from under the hood either. I just hold the button for a second or two untill starting takes place.
It was easy. Just look up the schematics for your vehicle on line. Saved me a $100 I guess, and was more fun than watching "Fitzcarraldo" again!
Easy does it!
I recently took the time to sus out the wiring diagram of the CSI sw innards and how it fits into the trucks (1987 22RE ) ignition system. I replaced the switch with a small printed circuit board, four resistors, about 10 feet of wire, and a pushbutton switch which I activate from the cab ( before turning on the ignition key so th ECU will "see" it as being closed, rather than closing, if it should make any difference to the ECU). It seems to work pretty well so far. No smoke or badness from under the hood either. I just hold the button for a second or two untill starting takes place.
It was easy. Just look up the schematics for your vehicle on line. Saved me a $100 I guess, and was more fun than watching "Fitzcarraldo" again!
Easy does it!
#9
The cold start injector AND time switch do NOT receive power unless the key is in the START position.
As soon as you stop cranking the truck, the switch and injector do not receive power and the ECU never gets any info from either of them.
The ECU gets the info it needs from the EFI temp sensor that is right beside the CSI time switch.
This info is for the 80's 22re/rte...I would be shocked if the v6 was any different.
In other words, just leave it plugged or unplugged at won't make a difference to the ECU
As soon as you stop cranking the truck, the switch and injector do not receive power and the ECU never gets any info from either of them.
The ECU gets the info it needs from the EFI temp sensor that is right beside the CSI time switch.
This info is for the 80's 22re/rte...I would be shocked if the v6 was any different.
In other words, just leave it plugged or unplugged at won't make a difference to the ECU
#10
on my v6 is had an oppsite problem, in side of the trottle body is a device that looks like a thermostat except its a thermal air valve, the tbi has coolent lines flowing through that warm this part and close the valve, its purpose is bypass air supply to a cold engine and is make up for the extra fuel the cold start injector dumps into the manifold, well i couldn't get the part, so i adjusted it fully closed all the time and disconnected the cold start injector in a way that is not obvious (clip 1 wire cover with lots of electrical tape) to the smog technicians, engine starts and runs just fine cold with out the cold start system i live in the high desert of southern California year round temperatures vary from 22f to 122f no problems here.
note you have to plug the bypass air passage in order to bypass the cold start injector or the startup mixture will be too lean..............
note you have to plug the bypass air passage in order to bypass the cold start injector or the startup mixture will be too lean..............
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