what is the proper position of the distributor when it is in the proper timing position? Basicly to what cylinder does it need to be set?

This is incorrect.

 

with the block set @ tdc on the #1 cyl, the rotor should be pointing at the #1 cyl on the dissy cap.... pointing at the wire on top..

 

Crank needs to be at 0 / TDC while the intake and exhaust valves on #1 cylinder are loose. If the valves aren't loose, rotate the crank one turn and line up at TDC and the valves should be loose. If the valves still aren't loose, figure out why.
Then after that, the distributor rotor should point at #1 cylinder's spark plug wire on the cap.

 

Here is a photo of the rotor in the correct position for #1 TDC.

 

ok thanks you guys i got it all doon but i have another problem
i started it and it ran very good.
It didnt have an exhost so i weldid one in from a ford focus that was laying around in my back yard.
Started up the car, it ran long enough for the engine to warm up and then died.
now when i start it, it runs for 2-3 seconds and dies. It appears that it is not getting any fuel kuz when i sprayed starting fluid in to the intake the car ran, and when when i stooped it died.
WTF! is it a sensor? Fuel pump?
My check engine light is on do you guys know where i can plug in the little computer thing that reads light codes? i couldn't find it under the steering wheel.
this car is begining to drive me nuts!!!

 

On the passenger side inner fender their is a little gray box next to the big black fuse box open the gray box find TE1 and E1 put a paper clip or wire into the slots of both of them then turn the ignition to the on position and count the flash's of the check engine light I.E. 123 pause 123 wright them down then report back and we can find what codes if any you are getting and steer you the right direction as to the issue the computer is telling you

 

~ "little computer thing that reads ligt codes" haha but you can go to either advance or autozone or napa or pretty much any other auto parts store for free.... or you can buy a cheap one for about $60 and look the codes up in the repair manual or the internet....

 

oh you got an older model......

 

ya, lol i wil rty something today in the afternoon and get bak to you

 

so i dont know if i did it write but its 123 1.
oh and howmeny quarts of gear oil do i need to fill the rear diferential?
it also apears that my afm was taken apart and nothing was reconected. WTF but i fixed it.

 

the codes should be two-digit codes. For instance, code 42 would be "flash-flash-flash-flash-pause-flash-flash-long pause". The pause between digits in a code is a very short pause and the pause between codes is a longer pause of approximately 2 seconds.
If you got flashes of 12 then 31, the codes would represent: 12= knock sensor circuit and 31 is air-flow meter circuit.
You might try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes then reconnecting it and driving, then check if the codes come back.

 

flash-flash-flash-pause 2 seconds-flash long pause and same thing on and on. i disconected the batery and reconected it in a few minutes and it is stil on and same code.

 

I suspect broke or dissconnected wires. Check wires coming from ignitor see if they are broke. Check air flow meter fror resistance, if its not within spec everywhere it needs replacing. Intake manifold leaks? Main intake hose leaking? The rear diff holds about 2-3 quarts of oil.

 

the AFM worked good when i reconected everything. how would i check the resistence on it. i did it befor with the yellow tester thing but keep on forgeting how to do it.

 

ok so i got dun with the AFM, the check engine light is not on anymore. it runs good on cold but when it gets warm it keeps on dieing. runs for 10 seconds then dies. basically does not hold RPMs.

I went to the gas station to fill up to go to emissions test and guess what?
i wasted 2 bucks on gas and it all pored out the side.
the problem is that whoever did the 4" body lift didn't add a piece of hose on the gas tank fill up pipe and it was just hanging there above the tank.
whoever had this car before me is a #~(*!^& bastard. couldn't get $h!t dun the rite way. now i need to clean up the mess.

you guys have any comments on how to pass the emissions the ezest way?

 

you guys have any comments on how to pass the emissions the ezest way?

give it a full tune up run it hard for about 1/2 hour before you go and make sure it is hot replace the cat if you think it maybe an issue and see what happens.

 

the cat is from an 07 ford focus 2.0, lol

 

So you're expecting a converter for a PZEV 2.0L vehicle to accomodate the emissions from a comparatively dirty running 2.4L engine?

 

at least get a universal hi flow I am sure the one from the ford is NOT going to get you a passing test

 

I hope it does. Im taking it today so i will get bak to you when im dun.

one more thing, i heard that there are some cites that dont require emissions and if the car is registered on the address in that city it dont need emmisions, is that true?