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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

90 22re coolant disappearing

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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 11:18 AM
  #21  
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Seems how I would have to buy the tap anyways would something like this work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11580782407...xoCELUQAvD_BwE
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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 11:34 AM
  #22  
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Also I just want to confirm that I am removing just the one head bolt cleaning out the hole and then putting it back in. Is this something I should do as a hot engine operation or should I do this as a cool engine operation?
I haven't done a lot of this kind of stuff before so I figure it's better to ask more questions then damage something further
Also would it be beneficial to drain any of the coolant before I perform this operation?

Last edited by Brokton; Jan 17, 2024 at 11:36 AM.
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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 11:45 AM
  #23  
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Cold. And just remove the one bolt.
Just be slow when running the tap, and really take your time getting it started. Then clean well.
That tap looks fine. You only need it to fix one hole. You could always run it down a metric nut the same size to make sure it's decent before going after the block. If you're anywhere near me (93117 zip code) you're welcome to borrow whatever you need.
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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 11:52 AM
  #24  
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It can't hurt to clean the threads well and retorque this head bolt, but I think it is unlikely to resolve your problem.
The long tap should make the work easier.
Work on the engine cold. Don't think draining coolant will help..

Good luck to you. and keep this updated please

Last edited by millball; Jan 17, 2024 at 11:55 AM.
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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 11:55 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Jimkola
Cold. And just remove the one bolt.
Just be slow when running the tap, and really take your time getting it started. Then clean well.
That tap looks fine. You only need it to fix one hole. You could always run it down a metric nut the same size to make sure it's decent before going after the block. If you're anywhere near me (93117 zip code) you're welcome to borrow whatever you need.
I appreciate the offer but I live down in San Diego so it's a little bit on the far side for me
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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 12:41 PM
  #26  
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Do any of the head bolts pass through coolant passages or are they all blind? And if they go through a coolant passage, did you put a sealer on the bolt before install?
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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 12:47 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by cashmoney00
Do any of the head bolts pass through coolant passages or are they all blind? And if they go through a coolant passage, did you put a sealer on the bolt before install?
To my knowledge they are all blind but someone else might have more information
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Old Jan 17, 2024 | 04:02 PM
  #28  
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I've ordered the tool and according to the estimates it won't be here until the 6th of February at the latest so maybe a little bit before I post anything update-wise as to what has happened
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Old Mar 4, 2024 | 10:18 AM
  #29  
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Apologies for the long time between posts but I think that I have finally solved the problem. after running the tap down the head bolt that wasn't on right i was still losing coolant, but the engine was running better. I also found that one of the manifold to down pipe bolts wasn't on al the way as well and that mostly took care of the misfire that i was having but i was still losing coolant. i ended up giving in and buying some UV dye and found that it was leaking from the heater core return line after some online investigation i realized that i had never put the bolts into this pipe in the first place but after about 2 hours of work i now have bolts in the pipe and so far there are no new leaks. i am honestly surprised that the coolant wasn't just dumping out of the pipe and that it was just slowly leaking out to the point that the overflow was empty every 7 to 14 days.
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