SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

It's gotta be your (ignition) timing.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

+ 3 has to be timing at this point.

nathan_willetts

if you can rev it and it seems to rev through the rpms fine then it could be as easy as a new clutch if everything seems fine the its probably just a clutch

Innocent Fool

So you've had several solid users point to cam & ignition timing
how'd it check out?

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

That does add up, but I don't see how that could happen and not notice the smell.

nathan_willetts

if everything is running good and it just cant gain speed id look into something as simple as the clutch the clutch could be worn if you can rev it and it seems to be running ok id say clutch

kbpickens

Finally got a chance to poke at the timing, but I think I need to do it again. I thought I had it right, but when I took it up the same hill, it stalled. I was trying to get it over to my mum's house (about an hour away) so my brother could help, but didn't make it (made it about 10 minutes out).

When I jump the connections in the diagnostic block, should anything happen to the RPMs or any other noticeable impact? They're rather crusty looking, and I have my doubts about whether it made the necessary connection.

If the clutch has gone bad, would there be any other symptoms (inability to shift comes to mind)? How would I test that?

j2the-e

When you jump the connector, the timing should change(noticeable with the light hooked up). If it doesn't, TPS is bad or mis-adjusted, you will never get the timing right. Did you ever check the position of the bolt in the distributor adjuster slot? If you suspect TPS, set the timing to 25° and drive it. Should be a HUGE improvement. If so, time to replace or adjust the TPS and and set the timing properly

If the clutch is slipping, rpms will go up and speed will not.

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Your RPM's will drop a couple hundred or so and your CEL light will be flashing (good time to check for codes) when you have the jumper plugged in. If you think you're not getting a good connection take your wire (make sure it's a solid wire or at least fairly stiff) and scratch it in and out of the connection ports a little to help scuff off any corrosion that might be in there. Coat the ports with some dielectric grease to help prevent future corrosion. Pull the distributor cap and wiggle the rotor around. You shouldn't have much play....if any.


You want your adjustment bolt to be about center of the oval on the distributor tab. You'll have to go back and forth a few times between adjusting timing and idle speed to get both of them to finally settle in to where they're supposed to be. Idle speed should be right around 750 RPM with the jumper in. Once you get both set right pull the jumper and your RPM's should jump up to around 850-900.

Check your cam timing too to make sure that's not the issue. Here's a link that will walk you thru that process:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

It's a lot and some of it isn't necessary for what you're doing, but it's good info for what you're doing and future use.

I don't think your clutch is the problem because you would definitely notice the smell of a burning clutch.

One more thing: check the temperature of your exhaust manifold. I had my timing so far off one time when I was messing with it that the manifold was glowing because I was getting my ignition so late in the cycle and it wasn't burning the fuel until it was going thru the exhaust process. I'm lucky I didn't tear anything up when i did that. I had the exact same symptoms as you did when that happened.

ehenson99

I had similar symptoms with a car I used to have. Timing belt was 1 tooth off. I would bet a paycheck that your timing chain is off a tooth. Where are you located???

kdevine321

Is it possible for the timing chain to be off a tooth and still have the cam/crank at tdc line up? Sorry, selfish of me but trying to diagnose my slight backfire/ poor acceleration post timing chain kit replacement.

kbpickens

Got a second go on the timing. I can get it up to 55 now, and acceleration is acceptable. Took it to my trial hill and was able to get it up to 30 before I ran out of hill (didn't run out of power). It still needs some tweaking to the timing (knocks a bit under strain - one of the guides for timing said that means I probably need to retard it a degree or two).

The important bit: I'm not afraid of taking it out of the neighbourhood anymore.

I'll call this one solved with the caveat that it needs some tuning.

In short:

• I checked the TPS ('throttle position sensor' for others like me who aren't mechanics); no problem.
• Raised the idle revolutions: more comfortable idle, no real performance improvement.
• Bought a timing light: don't think either of the other cars will ever need it.
• Adjusted the timing: botched it bad enough to take away the little power it did have.
• Adjusted the timing again: got it somewhere close to right, just needs to be fine-tuned.

This all took so long because I have work, an hour and a quarter commute, school, two kids, and a house that needs work. Actual time spent working under the hood would be about a day without the required parts of life getting in the way of the fun.