Rather Diesel

Thanks very much for the offer. I left a message for my brother. Tentatively, YES, I will take the car. I think he'll trailer it for me for a reasonable fee. I'll update as soon as I know more. How's $100 for a finder's fee?

Thanks again,

Roy

Cebby

Cool build! Do you have more info about the aux fuel tank? Does this fit where the spare tire used to be?

Rather Diesel

If you cut out the crossmember that holds the spare tire, the tank fits between the framerails with about 5" on each side. I am still fabbing my mounts, so I can't comment on effect on departure angle. I also shortened my body 5", so mine would be different anyway. They give the dimensions on the site.

http://www.galleria-e.com/cgi-bin/Co...Product/462301

It's a 27 gallon tank from a military Blazer. These are surplus tanks from Coleman's Surplus. It cost $25 plus $13 shipping to MD. There is a little surface rust outside, and a little on the inside.

HTH

Roy

Cebby

Nice - it's only 9" tall. Are you having this just flow into your other tank or are you doing something more sophisticated? Does the tank have a pump in it and a guage sender?

Rather Diesel

The tank comes with no pump or hardware. I am setting mine up like this: (not completed)

Drill tank and weld in bung for 1/2" (I think) NPT hose barb. Drill on the side of the tank near the bottom-front. It will not need to face down.

Weld in drain valve a bung if desired.

Weld sending-unit hole shut. Add a breather hose outlet beside the fill inlet to match the original Toyota config.

Mount tank to the frame (only) with fill inlet facing passenger side. (don't want to turn around to fill #2 ) Leave space between tank and body for movement.

I added a second fuel door pocket to match the original. I added this behind the rear wheel. (photo above)

Route fill-inlet hose and tank-vent hose thru, around or under rear floor and frame as you see fit. This will be easier after tank is mounted, so position is exact. I peeled a small part of my floor up to make it easier to fab the steel tube.

Drop tank assembly, prime, paint, re-install

You will need a special fitting that screws into the DRAIN hole of the original fuel tank. This allows a barbed hose fitting to be screwed in to link the two tanks.

Install a fuel filter/w check-valve and a short piece of hose between the two tanks.


As the level drops in the main tank, the aux fuel tank will be emptying because it's higher than the OEM tank. The check valve will keep the OEM tank-fuel from draining back into the aux tank if parked on a steep hill.

I got my adapter from Wes @ Northwest Metals. It's sold with their dual tank kits, but if you tell them that a friend said you would sell them just the adapter, they will. Mine was $10 plus $10 shipping (BS) But little choice.

I haven't completed all this yet, so adjust instructions as needed. You can add the GM sender and gauge if you want to view levels separately.

Roy

Cebby

Thanks a bunch for the info! What a great, unique build!

*subscribes*

Rather Diesel

Here is the fuel tank thread I started with.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...l+tanks+toyota

Roy

aviator

WOW! Really cool build she looks a bit like a Landy Defender w/ a high roof kit. Maybe you should put in a few narrow windows at the roof line so the pax can see out?
For tires why not try some Fulda military tread tires?
In Austrailia they sell these water heaters that work off heat exchangers on the exhaust.
Edit: Just saw the rest of your posts [stupid slow dial-up] I would'nt want to have all that weight from the big water tank up top and if you did have it up there in your climate area I would want to keep the H2O as cool as posible
[personally I hate the taste of warm water] so i'd paint the tank white.
If you reinforced the rear doors you could mount some carriers to the doors and then be able to use military style water tanks [the ones that look like jerry cans].
For suspension the way you're loading up I think you're going to overlaod the stock rear springs why not switch to a custom airbag suspension kit?
Either that or an auxilary airbag helper kit.
For rear cabin cooling what about one or two Marine vent fans? You can get them from just about any marine supply store IE.West Marine they are available as solar powered units so there would be no drain on the electrical system and they are usually weather tight when closed so no worries during hurricane evacs etc.
with a little work you could fab up a portable water purifier using some standard house hold goodies, I'll put up a seperate posting on here in a day or two once I flush out a few of the details in my noodle just now.
Great post.
All you need to do now is put your CB antenna on the front bumper and paint a big black UN on the doors.
Cheers Aviator

Rather Diesel

I think we have some of the same ideas. Somewhere in this thread, I mentioned using the stock springs with Firestone airbags. I chose this option because I never know what my payload may be at any given time.

I added a vent to the top of the rear body panel to aid in ventilation when the A/C is not running. Inside the vent, I mounted two 12v PC fans at 45 CFM each. That should keep the air moving nice (front to back) with the front windows cracked. That way, if the roof is loaded up, I can still have good ventilation. I just about have the fuel tank set-up finished as well.

I haven't really got to the plumbing and electrical yet, so I'm wide open there. I have my sink and 10-gallon tank. I am setting it up to have a secondary supply tank as well. I haven't decided on the size. I have a RV water filter bookmarked on eBay as well. I want to rig up an outside shower for sure.

I'll post some new pics tonight. Thanks for all the input.

Roy

86SR522REEFI

Roy.

Can you post picks of how you route the filler neck for the second tank and let me know what you are using for the filler neck. Thanks.

Rather Diesel

I have the mounts attached and the skid plate supports in place. I'll be working on the filler neck this weekend (along with a bunch of other stuff). I'll be sure and get some photos as I go.

Roy

86SR522REEFI

Thank you so much.

4runnermt

That looks like a fun project! Looking good!

Rather Diesel

There will be a delay getting the fuel tank info to you. I tend to work all around the truck at one time, and I had a "brilliant" idea for the rear floor. Well, that took all day to figure out.

My uncle broke his hip (again), so I'm headed to Baltimore tomorrow to hang with him for a while. I'll be sure and document what I come up with.

I can draw a diagram to show how I mounted it if you are interested in that info.

Roy

Rather Diesel

Here is the 2nd fuel tank with the cage welded around it. I used 3/4" square tubing for the cage. The skid plate will be welded to this when I find some plate cheap. The skidplates will go up the sides as well. The tank is not welded to cage anywhere. It is sandwiched in the framing only.

Rather Diesel

Second fuel-door pocket to match the stock one. The rear body was cut off even with the front-most edge of the old taillamps.

Rather Diesel

In stock configuration, there is a 6" hump that the rear seat-bottoms rest on. This hump makes getting into the back from the front doors a pain in the butt. So, I removed the hump, and added a ramp from the front floor to the bed floor. Only 2/3 is plated because I need to fab around the stock fuel sending unit and tank "hump". This makes getting in the back much easier.

Rather Diesel

This was a lot more work than I thought it would be because of all the interlocking sheetmetal underneath. It needed to look right from the underside as well. Another shot:

Rather Diesel

Here is the original 22re. I disassembled it down to the shortblock because I was going to replace all the gaskets and timing set. I stripped the block down to bare metal and primed it with Rust Bullet. I also cleaned, stripped, primed and painted all the accessories and brackets. I had a machine shop pressure-test the head/valves, clean and plane the head surface. They also verified the head was straight and there were no cracks.

This is for sale if there's anyone near Maryland who is interested. It will need a timing cover and gear-set (grooves), head bolts and gaskets for re-assembly. It had 88,000 documented miles.

I decided to try and squeeze a Mercedes turbo-diesel into the 4Runner, so I won't be needing it.

aviator

Damn you could eat off that engine! Hope the diesel looks as sweet. Keep me posted pls I'd like to know how you go about cramming that mercedes in I may need to repower mine in a few years. Aviator