hirsche23

Hello all this is my first post, my 89 4 runner 22re sounds like a darn diesel especially at idle,the engine has been rebuilt and runs strong but it has a very load ticking coming from somewhere-could it be that the valves need to be reset or do the injectors need to be changed? I heard once that injectors can be noisy? Any advice is apreciated,my 84 4runner made some interesting noises but nothing like this one!

Elton

search for 22re ticking

wrenchmonster

Elton, I couldn't get your link to work. Hirsche23 welcome to Yotatech. I'm sorry but "...very loud ticking coming from somewhere..." is pretty vague you must admit.

Possibly a valve train adjustment. That's super easy to check. I'm no 22RE expert by any means, but I think the valve train on the motor is a simple lock adjuster type, where all you need is a wrench and a screwdriver to adjust.

ttownjoeshow

Yep you're right on the button! and the 22RE's do tick a fair bit, if they r really loud it should only take you half to an hour to adjust...do you have a manual?

maxpower_hd

You guys are wayyyyy off base. You also need, not one but two, different sized feeler gauges and it may take as long as 45 minutes because of all the time it takes to read the manual. Plus you have to have a complete set of two metric sockets plus a ratchet in order to remove the rocker cover. Oh yeah, it has to be done hot so figure in at least another ten minutes to get the engine up to temp.

Detect the sarcasim? Just kidding. It is very easy to do. Just read the manual. It steps you through it easily. Also check the timing chain guides while you have the cover off. Shine a light down inside and make sure they are still there and in one piece.

4runnermt

timing chain, guides????

maxpower_hd

There are two guides, one on each side of the timing chain, on which the chain is supposed to ride. I believe they are also referred to as rails. I would have to look in the manual to get the exact wording. They are made of plastic and are known to wear. Sometimes to the point that the chain actually rubs against the side of the timing cover and head. The chain can actually wear through the cover over time. It is one of the things that can cause the "diesel" sound described by hirsche23. It is easy to check while the cover is off so I would look while I was there.

I replaced mine with the steel rail kit from engnbldr.com during my rebuild.

hirsche23

thanks for all the tips, the best way to describe the sound is that it sounds like it really is a diesel engine at idle, I listened on the valve cover with my stethy aand I didn't think that the rockers were malikg too much noise,so my question is should I remove the cover,reset the valves and check the timing chain or is there other things to check first? the head gasket was replaced very recently by the previous owner who was not a mech so maybe the valves are out from when he had the head of,fjust a thought.cheers

4runnermt

Yes, you should.

maxpower_hd

Definately. It's easy and free. Again, get the manual.

Saint_Berzerker

Before you mess with the engine, check your catalytic, and your exhaust manifold.

After I got my new 22re engine put in a few months ago...the mechanics were like, "it sounds like a diesel", they couldn't figure it out, they said they adjusted the valves to super quiet.

After driving it for a while I got under the truck and I could hear my cat sounding like a dang diesel.

Bang on it with something while it's cool and see if it rattles, if it does, it's toast.

This is my advice since this was the exact thing that happened to me...and the engine was new! From a really reputable place, too.

And of course...the 22re's, even in perfect condition, tick a little, but that is normal.

wrenchmonster

Hirsche23 how is your timing? Are the plugs the right length and heat range? Do you have oil in the motor? How's the o-ring on the pick up tube?

I know these are REALLY simple things, but I've seen guys rebuild motors and get excited and forget the simple stuff. Never hurts to check.

hirsche23

I haven't checked the timing. I'm doing that tomorrow along with some new NGK plugs a cap and rotor and if I get really crazy I''ll pop the valve cover off and adjust the valves. I want to try all the small things first and as i have a limited knowledge of the mechanical history of this truck I figure i''ll just go through it all. I only paid 700 bucks for it and so far i'm very happy with how it's doing, I just want it to run quieter.

kyle_22r

toyota recommends adjusting the valves every 3 years or 36,000 miles. i'd recommend getting an angled feeler gauge set, makes checking the lash much easier. about $7 at sears.

wrenchmonster

You only paid $700 for it! :pat:

hirsche23

Yeah and so far I figure i've only spent 150 bucks getting it on the road. it wasn't running when i bought it and the guy couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. I put in a $50 used fuel pump $8 of fuel line and she's gold.i put a few other small parts on it as well but so far she's a pretty cheap ride,and with a rebuilt mill under the hood too! what happened was the transfer case blew big time and pinched off the main fuel line,the guy missed that and it wasn't getting fuel, he thought there wasn't power getting to the pump. so i pulled the pump after fixing the fuel line and found that it had tripped the relief valve in the pump which makes them toast according to toyota? so if you ever pinch your line on the trail and can't get it running again after repairing the line be prepared to pull the pump.

hirsche23

Just got the plugged up cat cut out and put in new plugs and rotor/cap. It runs quite a bit smoother and has more power without the plugged cat, now that the engine is easier to listen to I 'm pretty sure I just need to adjust my valves now.

kyle_22r

also keep in mind that the injectors on these engines make a good amount of noise. however it's much softer than a valve rattle.