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89 22r (206k) failed emissions

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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 01:25 PM
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89 22r (206k) failed emissions

Just traded a honda civic for this 89 2wd pickup, It failed emissions but not by much. I have a few questions on how to get it to pass. also the truck recently started acting up, when i accelerate it stumbles goes stumble and while doing that it bucks and feels jumpy.


got to looking at the vacuum lines and all that, theres theses 3 lines not hooked up on the carb, could they be causing the failed emissions?

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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 05:03 AM
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From: Scotts Valley, CA
Those look like factory plugs. They may not be in the right spot, but, they look factory. Is there a vacuum diagram under the hood? What part of the smog did you fail, Visual, EVAP, Timing, Tailpipe? I can look at mine today. I let you know what it looks like, if nobody else chimes in.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 07:33 AM
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Those three ports are for the HAC (high altitude compensation) system. If you dont have the rest of those parts, then they should be plugged. Wouldn't affect your emissions.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 07:49 AM
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We have to know what failed to know where to look. Was it excess hydrocarbons or NOX?

If HC:
Make sure compression's good
Do a tune up with all stock Denso parts & set timing.
Check that both vacuum advance diaphragms on the distrib are intact (don't leak).
Check the Air Suction system.
It's probably the carb. Either adjust mixture or rebuild if necessary (NAPA kits the best - take in the # off the aluminum tag)

If NOX, check EGR.

Regardless of HC or NOX, if the cat is old and it didn't miss passing by much, a new Magnaflow cat would probably take care of the problem.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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Basically barely failed the hydrocarbons on the idle test, and the CO% on the high speed.

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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 11:32 AM
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this leads me to believe shes running a little rich? whats your opinion? carb rebuild? or can i simply turn a couple screws and lean it out a tad?
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 05:09 PM
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Yup, high CO means definitely running rich. Do screw in the mixture adjustment screw until it starts missing, then back it out only as much as needed to get it to run smoothly. Do the tune up w/Denso parts first tho, set the timing, check the Air Suction which is supposed to draw fresh air into the exhaust to help complete the burning of the HC, then test it again.

If it still fails, you'll probably need to rebuild the carb.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by sb5walker
Yup, high CO means definitely running rich. Do screw in the mixture adjustment screw until it starts missing, then back it out only as much as needed to get it to run smoothly. Do the tune up w/Denso parts first tho, set the timing, check the Air Suction which is supposed to draw fresh air into the exhaust to help complete the burning of the HC, then test it again.

If it still fails, you'll probably need to rebuild the carb.
just curious but why do you say this? if i can simply adjust a screw and get it to pass? i know it would ultimatley benefit the car in the long run. but trying to do this cheap as possible
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 11:58 AM
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anyone?
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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smog emission trouble :( --89 22r, 206k miles.

89 22r, 206k miles.

failed the emissions twice, the first time you could say it barely failed.
then i replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and pcv valve. and ran some seafoam through the tank and carb.
took it in for a retest and it failed tremendously.

anyway here are the results of both tests.

first test:



second test:


any insight?
also while looking everything over, and checking vacuum lines i discovered this

i figure something is suppose to be connected there but i dont know what. i looked around and didnt have any lines laying around not hooked up, so am i missing something? could this be part of my emission trouble?

thanks in advance guys, Id really appreciate any help i can get at this point
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 10:46 PM
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From: willits
did they tell why you didnt pass the smog the secong time?...I would check for any vaccum from that horse to find out if something goes there.....
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 10:49 PM
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i'm unfamiliar with that particular piece of the motor apparently..

i don't remember anything like that being around my Starter?
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by norcal707
did they tell why you didnt pass the smog the secong time?...I would check for any vaccum from that horse to find out if something goes there.....
yea they would have told me for a small price. the shop tried getting me to let them fix it. but i don't trust them to be honest and straightforward with me. They would just end up throwing parts at it. It was a tire shop that does lube jobs and inspections/emissions.

this whole process is going to be a pain in the ass lol, theres just so many things that could possibly be wrong with it.

im hoping for someone who also has a 22r to chime in and tell me what goes there.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 11:48 PM
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you should be able to find the Factory service manual using this link:
http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

it will have the diagrams you need...good luck

edit: I merged your two threads on the same subject

Last edited by dropzone; Sep 14, 2010 at 11:51 PM.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 12:13 AM
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From: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
double check and make sure you have the correct heat range plugs in your truck...


And for absolute best results use OEM only...


And look for the AAP here: http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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From: Cool-oh-RAD-oh
^^^^ yup that darn AAP diaphragm got me before. It's a pretty common leak and you don't need to rebuild the whole carb to replace it, IIRC. And make sure your air pump is working right. I got through emissions once after a couple fails just having the air pump run all the time - takes care of the HC. (Then I disconnected it afterwards but don't tell them that...)
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by andykrow
^^^^ yup that darn AAP diaphragm got me before. It's a pretty common leak and you don't need to rebuild the whole carb to replace it, IIRC. And make sure your air pump is working right. I got through emissions once after a couple fails just having the air pump run all the time - takes care of the HC. (Then I disconnected it afterwards but don't tell them that...)
i thought the aap only affected the enigne when cold? i took it to get tested when the engine was good and warm, i even made the guy do up the freeway and pull it into the shop and test it while it was good and hot
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 12:16 PM
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From: Cool-oh-RAD-oh
You're right, but I know on my last carbed 22r a faulty AAP was making me run rich enough to cause black smoke. There's supposed to be some sort of switching valve for the vacuum on this but maybe that is commonly leaky as well? Maybe try just plugging the ports that the AAP line connects to (carb side and valve side) and see how that does.
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tried4x2signN
double check and make sure you have the correct heat range plugs in your truck...


And for absolute best results use OEM only...


And look for the AAP here: http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
what would not having the right plugs do? i think i used some really cheap ngk plugs, also did know what to set the gap at so i gapped them the same as the ones i pullled out at like .38 if i remember correctly
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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guys do you think my cat is done for? its got 206xxxmiles on it, and i think the seafoam smoke killed it.
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