Ok im new to the toyota truck game and i recently purchased an 88' truck. The girl i bought it from only put water in the radiator so its all rusted out. And i tried flushing it but it just boiled out all the flushing stuff. So chances are ill have to get a new radiator correct? So theres that issue then when i get above 1700 rpm the check engine light comes on and it starts running really crappy. Rough idle, little to no power. Any ideas? haha

Heres a picture of my truck because everyone likes pictures haha

 

The first thing you should do is replace the radiator and thermostat, and then give it a complete tune up (plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, air filter and fuel filter) then check all of the vacuum lines and replace all the ones that look bad, and then go from there.

 

hmm what exactly does it do that it makes it run like crap after 1700 rpms? sounds to me like your missing, throw a code reader on her, it will prbly tell you if your missing and on what cylinder, this way you will have a better idea where to start, nice looking truck though!

 

You should short out TE1 and E1 terminals of the diagnostic check connector (next to the under-hood fuse box). To see if there are any stored codes .As for the radiator I think you already got that under control.

 

gooooood thinking, usually as long as you get a blink from check engine light when she starts running like crap it should store the code right away.. is the truck leaking any oil over the distributor or sparkplugs? sometimes this can cause a missfire as well...

 

I did a compression test and all the cylinders seemed to be fine. Hopefully later today ill have time to check out what some of the suggestions were.
Anymore ideas?
Also i was thinking about painting my grill black, but then i dont know. haha what do others think?

 

I guess it wouldn't hurt to check the timing .

 

mine beat me to death figuring out what made it run bad when reved up. Finally put 2 and 2 together and found a water leak on the intake

 

What exactly do you mean? Cause I would like to try this

 

Hey buddy. I see you found the site

These guys should be able to help out. I have learned a lot on here. Corey, the guy that started the site is from my home town up in Auburn Washington. I am sure you will love this site and appreciate all the knowledgeable and helpful members on here. Once we figure out how to get the codes for the truck, bring it over to my house and we can fix her up. I can get you some tires for it too. GL bud

 

where the diagnostic check connector is:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector
the lid to the connector has the terminal ID's labeled.

 

Short out the two terminals, then turn the key to on, not run and you will see the ck engine light start flashing in code. Flash flash.stop flash flash flash.stop whould be a code 23. It always starts with a code 11, or 12 and then your regular codes.

 

Sweet thanks. Im just gonna rock this site I found

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/

Ryan: Hey thanks. But your in phoenix and im in tucson yo. haha

 

OK OK OK. so i checked the ecu and everything and from what I could read it was 52 and 51.

51--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--A/C AMPLIFIER

--TPS/CIRCUIT

--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--ECU

52--KNOCK SENSOR/CIRCUIT

Right?

 

52---Knock Sensor Signal - Open or Short in Knock Sensor Signal

Knock Sensor / Circuit

ECU


51---Switch Signals

IDL (tps) Contacts Off, Neutral Start Switch Off, A/C Switch "On" Signal to ECU

With Diagnostic Check Connector Shorted

A/C Switch / Circuit

A/C Amplifier

TPS / Circuit

Neutral Start Switch / Circuit

ECU


Sorry thats the right codes

 

So from what you have posted, it looks like you need a new knock sensor and TPS.

 

Really? Ok I wasnt sure what to make of all that. I know what a TPS is (throttle position sensor) but what is a knock sensor?

 

or possibly a wiring issue.
you can check the TPS with the directions here:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

the knock sensor is exactly what it's name implies: it senses 'knocking' (detonation, pinging, etc.) and causes the ECU to retard engine timing when it does (well, not exactly, but that's the generalization)

 

Code 52:
The Knock sensor is setting a code because you have a knock/missfire (as stated in the OP) Dont burn money on replacing it yet (When the knock sensor sets a code and the engine is running great then replace it)

Code 51: Adjust the TPS and if that doesn't work unplug it and see if engine performance improves. Remember Code 51 involves alot of other switches too (like AC and the Clutch Start override) so it maybe something totally different

Just because a sensor sets a code it doesnt mean that sensor is bad. Learning this one cost me about $500 by the time it was over. (Plastic bags sucked into the Air filter housing will set a MAF code on ODB2 vehicles, and clogged Converters will set off all O2 sensors and the MAF codes on ODB2)

 

I'm going to add that the code 51 can also be set if the TPS is unplugged when you try to pull codes. Typically, code 51 means, with regards to the TPS, that the ECU is not seeing the IDL signal from the TPS when the diagnostic mode is entered.
It can also mean the A/C switch on the dash is turned on...
or the neutral safety switch is engaged.