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88 Toyota Truck 4X4 Fuel Problem.

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Old 03-30-2015, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigwhite94
I have the same exact problem with my 88 Toyota 4x4. I was actually driving down my road on my way home and mine started the same knocking and just quit. We can't figure anything out and have tried almost everything.
Try checking the intake manifold gasket for leaks, mine ended up having a tiny leak in the intake manifold gasket, once i replaced the gallery it went back to normal
Old 03-30-2015, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigwhite94
I have the same exact problem with my 88 Toyota 4x4. I was actually driving down my road on my way home and mine started the same knocking and just quit. We can't figure anything out and have tried almost everything.
We could use a better explanation of what you have done. First you need to see if it is on the firing side or the fuel side. When you say it just quit, will it even crank over? If the fusible link failed that will stop everything. Really no way of knowing where the problem exist.
Old 02-22-2018, 12:04 PM
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When I had my 1988 Toyota's engine rebuilt, the guy said they just couldn't start it at first. Then he explained why. He said when reinstalling the engine they somehow pinched one of the fuel lines coming from the tank. They did a very messy job actually. They pulled off the wire that turns on the reverse light and the 4 wheel indicator light.

But maybe when you replaced the engine, one of the fuel lines got pinched.

Just saying.....
Old 02-22-2018, 01:09 PM
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Dude this is a 3 year old thread
Old 02-22-2018, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jakey poo
Dude this is a 3 year old thread
dude, this is an ELEVEN year old thread.
Old 02-23-2018, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by wallytoo


dude, this is an ELEVEN year old thread.
Ok the last response was THREE years ago LOL
Old 02-26-2018, 11:04 AM
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I know , but still somebody may be looking for an answer for the same problem today.
Old 02-26-2018, 10:22 PM
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Eh, why not...

Check for fuel pump operation while key is in the start position, test light to FP lead of diagnostics port.

Check for fuel flow in the gas tank return line off.of the pressure regulator.

Check for injection pulse on the ECU with a noid light. You'll get carried results based on the construction, led vs incandescent. You are looking for a dimming light when the injectors pulse.

The simple test is the fuel tank return line, doesn't cost anything. It's not a "real test" by the book but it will tell you that you have some fuel flow. A "real test" is fuel pressure, and pressure retention.

Injection pulse is sometimes hard to see with the rest light methods.

Just because you have pressure doesn't mean you have enough volume to sustain engine idle. A low volume at the regulator shows a pump problem, Either low current or voltage due to bad ground or power wires or just general a failing pump.

Testing for flow volume at the regulator will tell you if you have a supply problem, pinched lines ect..
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