fotografik

I just put a 93 22re engine into my 88 4x4 truck and it won't idle down. Apparently there is no aux. air valve on the 93 engine (which controls fast idle?) so there is nothing to plug that connector into. I guess I need to attach a resistor to the connector so it will idle down at operating temp. so I can set the timing and have a normal idle. It runs at about 1700 rpm while cold or warm now. Does anyone know what the output of the '88 aav is supposed to be a operating temp? Also curiously, at temp. when I depress the brake it idles down to about 1100 and wavers betw 11-1300 rpm, but not when cold, and not when the tps is unhooked. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Chenedog

The newer 22re's have a different idle setup. It is located right under the opening for the Throttle body. Easier to get to than the '88 type like I have. It is also supposed to be more reliable. I don't know if you can wire the old style to the new and have it work. There are threads on here somewhere or Pirate that talk about this.

Hope this made sense and helps.

fotografik

I haven't been able to find another thread about this. The newer idle setup is indeed easier to get to but still doesn't have an electrical hookup to the ecu and appears to be a purely mechanical setup, so I still have an open connector that is telling the ecu it's cold even when at temp. I am still searching. Haven't been able to get on Pirate at all.

Yoda

The Aux air valve connector doesn't "tell" the computer anything. It has 12v and a ground wire to heat up the valve. As it heats up, it closes the aux air which slows down the engine.

fotografik

OK. Thanks Yoda and Chenedog, you put me on the right track. I found this in another post:

"I recently bought a '94 pickup with a 22RE from a local used car lot. Luckily I got a 90 day warranty. After I had it about 4 weeks I had a surging idle problem. It would run at about 1300 until I put my foot on the brake, then it would drop to 1000. At stoplights it would surge up and down from 1000 to 1300 while I had my foot on the brake. Turned out to be a blocked coolant passage in the cold air idle up valve (not sure if that's the official name, but it's the valve that bumps up the idle when the engine is cold). With the blocked passage, the valve wouldn't shut itself off. It's all cleaned out and works fine now."

I guess this is the passage under the throttle body that coolant goes through. First thing in the a.m. I am cleaning this sucker out but good. I have one throttle body gasket left too, I think. Keeping fingers crossed for now.

fotografik

I cleaned out the throttle body and there weren't any clogged coolant passages or air passages. So I am taking the aux. air valve to the dealer to see what they recommend. I guess that little valve hasn't been working to regulate my idle. We'll see.

fotografik

Just got back from the dealer and a new AAV is $188, ouch. I guess they're not fixable or rebuildable. Also the seal and gasket for it are not sold separately, if I was thinking about a used one. So what would be a good next step for me?? Any help is still appreciated. Thanks.

Chenedog

Take it apart and close it some. You'll see what I mean after dis-assembeling it. It won't idle high when cold but at least it will be better all around.

Mine won't idle up....I just deal with it, since the lowest price I found was $145.

fotografik

Hate to be dense but... I took it apart and I see a spring on a plunger looking thing. Do you have to jam something in there or what? I did find a used whole throttle body for $100 plus ship online though. Ever use junkyarddog.com?

fotografik

Got the used throttle body installed, now idles great. Off to emissions testing. Thanks for the help.

pcmentor

Hi can you test if the valve passes air when hot(hook it up to 12v on the bench and use compressed air) my 1985 22RE air valve seems to want to pass air through the seal when hot and not the plate. It would be very valuable to me to know how your new valve operates. When I heat up my valve the plate closes completely, does yours? Thanks

rdlsz24

I avoided all this when I put a '94 22RE into my '88 by using my '88 intake stuff. Didn't really think it would save me hassle at the time, but I knew it all worked right together so I went with it.

Rob

thook

I just want to point out that the auxiliary air valve design changed for 22re's in '88-'89....one of the two....from a remote valve to one integrated with the throttle body. The integrated design is non-electrical.

The earlier ones....like yours...can be tested with on ohm meter for resistance. Somewhere between 55-65 ohms. I'd have to refer to my notes (at home) to be exact, but that's real close.

I've had the AAV on my '86 apart just days ago, but I don't recall a seal. Unless you mean the seal where the two valve body halves connect?

The valve plate is supposed to close when heated. Mine doesn't open all the way or close all the way, anymore. The two terminals at the back are corroded. Time for a new one...used!...lol. Pricey buggers.

pcmentor

[QUOTE=thook;50826664]

I've had the AAV on my '86 apart just days ago, but I don't recall a seal. Unless you mean the seal where the two valve body halves connect?

QUOTE]

The seal I mean is the ring that you see if you take the nut off the adjuster and remove the spring and then take the valve plate off the valve. I used a rubber o-ring and got it to completely seal when hot. But I just put the old ring back on since all that I have read says it's supposed to pass air. It just doesn't make sense that they designed an o-ring to leak. Thanks

thook

What were you reading that said this? The FSM?

pcmentor

Yes the 1985 FSM page FI-58.

pcmentor

Hi, heating up the AAV on the bench I could only get the valve to close all the way. No matter what adjustment. I will pull it out again and see if there's some way of using just the little hole in the plate when hot all the way. Also I was adjusting the valve per the FSM leaving it open an eye shape when 68 degrees. Looking like the picture. Thanks

thook

Hi....

I ran some experimenting myself, and what I figure is that large hole is opened all the way when the motor is below operating temp and the thermo is closed. When the motor reaches full temp and the thermo is open, it's supposed to shut entirely. However, there seems to be an "in between" phase where the motor is not quite to operating temp yet not so cold as to require the lg. hole to open. I believe this is where the smaller holes come into play. Just enough supplementary air to keep the idle a tad more up.

BTW, where are you getting '85 FSM info from? The '85's have a single wire/non-heated O2 sensors, do they not? I need info for testing that and the AAV since the '93 FSM is all I have access to and covers neither. I have an '86.

Oh, and it seems to me the o'ring shouldn't pass air. It doesn't make sense to me a seal wouldn't seal....if you know what I mean. But, then again, I don't have the needed FSM info. All I have is what I can gather from observation and info concerning later designs specifically.

pcmentor

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1985/1985FSM.pdf


They have the single wire O2