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88 4Runner power windows

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Old 02-26-2009, 04:08 PM
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88 4Runner power windows

I am a newbe to this board. Former Jeep owner who has seen the light. I have owned this 4 runner for 3 weeks

I am having a issue with the power windows on the doors not the tailgate. After searching I can't find much on this issue. Windows worked for one day after I bought it.

There is no power getting to the switch. I checked the circuit breaker it is fine. I think I am going to run a hot lead to the window harness and use it to power the windows. Before I do this is there something else I should consider?
Old 02-26-2009, 04:45 PM
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Some have taken the switches apart to clean them.
Mine work so I am no help in that regard.
Old 02-26-2009, 05:06 PM
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Thanks I did that. Guess I should of put that in my post
Old 02-27-2009, 06:51 AM
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i know this sounds silly but did you make sure that the window lock was in the correct config.?
Old 02-27-2009, 08:22 AM
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Yeah I double checked that. Thanks for your reply!
Old 02-28-2009, 06:09 PM
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Power Window Fixed

Ran power to the master door switch to make sure both motors were good. Windows went up down off switch. By the way the power feed is the blue on the switch side after connector in door. Traced back in harness following power wire. Once inside the cab found wire inside kick panel. Ran wire (fused) from battery spliced into power wire. Have power and both front windows work as they should. Now
I can open and close window with engine turned off.

By the way confirmed with Toyota that 1988 four runners do not have a relay only a circuit breaker.

Last edited by Gordo; 02-28-2009 at 06:12 PM.
Old 02-28-2009, 06:11 PM
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So you didn't "fix" it with the OEM wiring but ran some new? Or am I missing something?
What was wrong?

Old 03-01-2009, 09:47 AM
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Used OEM wiring. All I did was tap into another power source. So the only non OEM is the wire from the battery to the original power wire. The switches are the same as well as all the wiring with the exception of the one wire. I tried first to run the original power wire to the source and could not trace it. So everything works like OEM with the exception of the one wire from the battery to power the switch. I only ran the battery wire into the cab then tapped in to the wiring harness to the wire that powers the switches. Hope that helps.

Last edited by Gordo; 03-01-2009 at 09:48 AM.
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