I just picked up a performance chip and am ready to install. I have hit a snag
though. it says to check your maf sensor plug , and with an ohmmeter, find 2 wires that are between 1000 and 3000 ohms, then use those 2, for your tie in. otherwise use a schematic to find which wires tell you this.

I do not have the schematics, and when I use the ohmmeter, I find several
wires that will fall between those 2 readings. The instructions made it sound like exactly only 2 wires will give you these readings.
Anybody out there, know which 2 I should use? it is a 22re fuel injected, 5speed manual. thanks ahead of time.

 

is it one of those cool ebay performance chips that doesn't do anything to make your car go faster?

 

nope, it is a G-force performance chip. I know that many here feel that these are a waste of time; and that may be so. but I am meticulous in the service of my vehicles, and I watch my fuel mileage like a hawk.
If I even remotely think that this chips is worth the money, I will deff report back here, and let eveyone know!!!

 

So this modifies the AFM (aka MAF) signal to the ECU? Basically fooling the ECU that it's getting more air then it really is thus adding extra fuel? You can do that for free just by simply messing with it's adjustment screw.

and according to their website it doesn't plug into the MAF/AFM it plugs into the IAT sensor.

 

When will they learn???

 

kSo where the heck is the iat sensor? I saw those same instructions on the website, but in the instructions they send with the device, it calls for the maf to be used.

 

Sell it to some ricer with a street racer, don't run that junk on your truck.

Website says it reprograms it doesn't, strike one, website says IAT directions say MAF strike two, website says it's a chip it's a 20 cent resistor, strike 3. That right there tells me it's not worth the $80.

Also, someone please correct me if I am wrong, if this thing wants to send more fuel into the engine by the way of fooling the ECU into sending more fuel and advancing ignition timing due to "cooler" air or more air, wouldn't the upstream o2 sensor just correct for the right A/F it is seeing in the exhaust thus this thing does nothing except advance ignition timing which you can do yourself?

 

All the chip has in it is a resistor. A $2 dollar part at Radio Shack. XXX hit it on the head, it tricks the ECU to think there is more air, dumping in fuel. There are side effects to this you know...don't you? If you watch your MPH like a hawk, then you should notice a lot more fuel consumption.

But do it, I like a science experiment. Just not on my truck!!

 

The purpose it has is getting you to part with$$ after that it has no real purpose

 

oh ooh,lean engine = really big problems to come

 

The IAT sensor is inside the AFM.

 

the thing that worries me here is, I recently had the engine completely rebuilt, top to bottom, plus a radiator clean out, and new hoses, belts, and water pump, all that was needed, from Joey's engines here in houston. Extrememely reuputable, tons of experience, all computerized, etc. my mileage was about 1- 2mpg better, before the rebuild.
As a non engine knowing/electronic parts idiot, would it be safer to assume, that it just needs a break in period? I have less than 500 miles on the rebuild.
Maybe also, since the rebuild, I need to open up the maf, and move that gear over a tooth, maybe it is running a bit rich now?

 

yup needs break in period for the rings to seat and depending on how you have driven it so far, will determine how long it will take. Drive it like grandma it will always drive like a dog as t will never really seat the rings. Drive the pants off it that's how it will run and break in sooner. Should be no need to move anything in the AFM etc etc. the ECU should supply the right amount of fuel. If not then there is other issues going on. And once again, please do not use that crap "CHIP" on your engine.

 

Howzabout you get some real performance parts which actually make your truck drive better? Maybe a header/ exhaust camshaft combo?

 

You only see a real difference when you put a chip in a diesel or a newer truck/car. Live and learn I guess

 

Not true. My 91 e34 with a dinan chip is a proven huge improvement, I'd have one, but don't trust the 250,000 mile engine to handle it. But then again that chip runs like $200. Not this POS 200x the price 20 cent resistor.

 

You want a performance upgrade?
go to the local pick and pull, and find an 85' Cressida AFM, use an OHM meter to check it, and make sure it 'almost' tests to factory specs. Modify your intake(ISR) and take her for a spin...she will scream! You will also get the benefit of about 100miles to the tank, and dump raw fuel out of your exhaust, with the occasional bake-fire...cool!

If you are concerned about your mileage and performance, hook up an air/fuel ratio meter. then you know how well your truck is really running!

 

More fuel does not mean more power.

While it is a resistor that plays with the signal to fool the ECU into changing the fuel ratios, it is most likely to run slightly LESS fuel. Early fuel-injection systems tend to be tuned fairly rich under load. This is why they advertise better economy.

SOMETIMES they can be leaned out safely in those conditions, but I would not consider this without a wideband 02 gauge to closely monitor (and preferably log) the ratios. And if your really looking for just mileage, and don't beat on the truck very much, it can be done safely.

Depending on how sophisticated the ECU is, changing the IAT across the board can mean the ECU will adjust fuel and timing trims. "Reprogram" isn't quite the right word, but it's not a total lie. I don't know the 22RE setup very well, and while it does seem pretty primitive, the turbo ECU in my 4runner ran the RE without any trouble.

The theory is sound. And, depending on the FI system, is a much better idea than just adjusting the fuel mixtures alone (re-clocking the AFM).



And yes, as mentioned, the IAT is part of the MAF.


As for the diagram, there is a thread stickied in the general truck section for factory service manuals. You should be able to find what you're looking for there.

 

Btw, my afr was reporting very rich.

 

that's some good info, especially from the last couple dudes, and mister xxxtreme. I was being all nice and calm with my driving, since that is what the rebuilder wanted, I guess it is time to step on it a bit...