vc88runner

Just installed bf goodrich all terrain 33x12.5x15 on my 88 4runner. I have a 1.5" bj spacer lift up front and ome 2.5" leaf springs on back. Gears are 4.88. I did a ton of research before installing my tires and finally determined from 4crawler that rubbing wouldnt be an issue with my setup. But, the tires are rubbing my upper control arms when turning. I would like to get some feedback if its best to trim the control arms or to just use wheel spacers. If anyone has had experience with this your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Charchee

I'm not a real big fan of wheel spacers but I'd sure go that route before I went to cutting metal off my arms. One thing to think about with wheel spacers is that your front tires are already spaced slightly wider than the back on that model. You may want to install spacers on the back as well to keep your truck from looking a lot wider in the front. Be sure to torque everything properly. Most of those spacers are aluminum and can get loose if not properly tightened. Also with those BJS you are already going to be toward your limit of you alignment cam bolts. The spacers will camber you in even more so be sure you are going to be able to get it aligned after you do all of this. Are you running the factory offset 8 wheels I see in your avatar? I have ball joint spacers with 32-11.50s on those wheels on my 89 with no rub but it's real close.

One more thing. Ball joint spacers and wheel spacers might allow you to run those big tires but are also going to weaken the structural integrity of your whole front end. This baby is not going to be a rock crawler. It may be safe enough to run around town or even through the mud but be very careful beyond that. A broken ball joint or wheel spacer can get you hurt bad at any speed.

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

Spacers will stop the inside of the tire from contacting the suspension but may cause the outside of the tire to contact the fender or body. Have a look how close things are. Some people have a fear of wheel spacers. I don't think there is anyone who would say they are as safe or safer than none at all, but I can also say that I have never heard of one failing or causing any actual dangers or issues. Not sure what the perceived problem is with aluminum. They make wheels out of aluminum too and I don't hear anyone saying those are unsafe. Spacers will no absolutely nothing to affect your camber.

robertd33

there is no mention here of the wheel backspacing. wheels are not universal.
spacers won't necessarily fix it if the backspacing is wrong.

arlindsay1992

iTrader: (8)

True, but wheel spacers are cheaper than new wheels plus dismount, remount, and rebalance.

MaK92-4RnR

There's absolutely nothing wrong with wheel spacers. Are they the cheaper solution for essential tire/wheel fitment? Yes.. But do they work efficiently? of course.

Obviously you're playing with fire anytime you install wheels, or wheel spacers incorrectly. But it's not rocket science. Torque your lugs to spec and you'll be fine. I've had wheel spacers on the front of my 88 for a better part of ~50k miles and not once have I had an issue with them. Rotate every 5k miles, and discount tire/america's tire torques them everytime. No brainer.

I hope this information helps.

coryc85

I have 33x10.50s on factory wheels, 1.5in BJ spacers and I had some slight rubbing as well. Had to install 1/4" spacers and that has solved my problem with no adverse side effects. Like arlindsay1992 said, I don't see how wheel spacers can affect your camber, perhaps Charchee was referring to the BJ spacers affecting your camber.

robertd33

no, there's nothing wrong with wheel spacers, but if the tires are rubbing, new math needs to be done to get the right backspacing, with or without spacers.

vc88runner

I'm running the factory alloys with 4.75" backspacing. I love the wheels, so getting rid of them is not a choice that I am willing to make. I am going to go with wheel spacers. CoryC85 you mentioned you are running 1/4" spacers with 33x10.5? So any idea of what the smallest width spacer I can run will be? Any suggestion on a brand to use? I've been searching around and it seems like choices are endless. I know not all parts are built to the same quality, so your recommendations will be appreciated. Thanks

robertd33

leverage...
think about a 1" spacer. not much, right?
think about a 36" spacer. quite a bit of strain on the bearings/spindle/BJs.

look & measure. how much do you need to stop the rubbing?

Charchee

Technically, the spacers will not change the camber geometrically. I am speaking strictly from experience here. I do my own alignments. There is some forgiveness given by the slightest wear in your suspension when you set the camber. That's what allows me to get mine so close without a computer. No way I would try to set up a new front end in my shop. Wheel spacers rob some of this forgiveness factor making the camber adjustment more difficult when setting one up without help from advanced equipment. I was wrong in what I said but set up the same front end with and without spacers and I bet you'll see what I'm talking about.

On the issue of the aluminum spacers. I'd say spend a couple years in a tire shop and get back with me. I'm not judging the merits of the magic metal itself. I'm only warning against the improper installation and torque procedure when it comes to creating a strong coupling between the wheel, spacer and hub. Lay out a quarter inch thick piece of aluminum next to a quarter inch thick piece of steel and drive a center punch in to each of them or better yet drill equal size holes in each and drive a punch into the holes. Your punch will hang up in the steel while the punch will come straight out of the aluminum, leaving a deformed hole the shape of your punch. A properly seated and torqued fastener will hold very well in aluminum but one that stretches or backs out a single mm will deform the hole and break off the fastener. In this case, the one that's holding your wheel on. I digress. Here are some pics.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

36" spacer?


Don't trim your control arms.

are your torsion bars cranked too?

what did Roger aka- 4crawler say when you contacted him?

4.75" back spacing is a bit excessive.
especially running a 12.5" wide tire on a 15x7" rim

coryc85

I ordered these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/g...3/applications

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

When I did 33x12.5s I somewhat anticipated this problem and went with different wheels since it was cheaper for me at the time. A 33x10.5 will work fine on the factory 4.75 backspace but the 12.5 was questionable when I did the math on my truck. I easily found some 15x8-3.75 wheels on CL and everything worked out perfect, the proximity of the inner side of the tire is very close to stock specs. The outside however, I had to deal with the new dimensions of a 2" wider tire on 1" wider wheel with 1" less backspacing (I had to break out the BFH and a grinder to do some slight clearancing.

I wish I kept my Toyota alloys which are one of my favorite wheels on a Toyota. Only way I figured I could keep them is to use spacers and/or have them converted over to beadlocks. One tire shop even told me they wouldn't put a 12.5" tire on a 7" wheel because it wasn't within manufacturer recommended wheel spec. Dunno how true that one is, seems like you had it done just fine.

89fourrunner

Not to be the black sheep here but, when do they rub? Early or at max turn? What about simply installing longer wheel stops? You can weld on a box extension, or drill a hole and install small bump stops. It will reduce your turning radius a little but I would rather have that than a combination of 33s with BJS and wheel spacers. You are going to get good at changing ball joints.

vc88runner

Torsion bars arent cranked. They rub at about 3/4 of a full turn, so i have no issues during street driving, except for u-turns. I dont quite understand the wheel stop suggestion..... I'll be taking measurements tomorrow morning. I'll provide updated info. Thanks

Charchee

If your tires were to be rubbing at say, 95% turn then you could modify the stops to max out your turn at 94% and stop the rubbing at the cost of 6% of your turning radius.

Charchee

The 12.5 on a 7" rim is really pushing it. My buddy owns a tire shop and he won't mount them for anyone but one of his friends on their hunting rigs. I have been told the beads can unseat and blow out on the highway but I haven't ever seen that and have seen a bunch of them on 7s. If you are in a rural "South Arkansas type, area like I am, start looking for it and you'll see a set of 12.5s with all of the tread worn off the center of them and full tread on the edges. That's what will happen with 12.5s on 7s. The tires try to split the difference between the 7" bead and the 12" tread. Those other five inches have to go somewhere and out is the only way they can deflect, leaving the center of the tread as the primary area of contact with the pavement.

vc88runner

Update. The good, the bad and the ugly. The good: the rubbing noise when turning is not the control arm, but just the mudflap. The bad: as you can see in the pictures, the tires are actually resting on the control arm, you can see the rub on the tires from my 23 mile drive home from the tire shop. Lucky to have made it home. The ugly: its not driveable. Will have to sit until the spacers arrive. It looks like 1" spacers will do it. Thanks to all.

osv

1"? i thought that the minimum thickness was 1.25"

seems kinda strange that one side is rubbing, but the other side isn't.

how about jacking the front end up, and feeling how much play there is in the wheel bearing.