881stGenRunner

This is going to be long, well all of a sudden my truck will not start and im getting code 14 (engine just cranks and cranks). it left me stranded and my dad had to tow me home.

So we were going to use the trouble shooting guide off of the 93 FSM site, but that's just it. its a 93, VERY different from an 88. the ECM plugs are not hte same, so i dont know which is which.


So we got out our Vintage 1990 Haynes manual and started to troubleshoot the ignition.

first up was the ignition coil. we first connect our DMM to the two posts on hte coil to measure Resistance. the manual calls for 0.5 to 0.7 Ohms and we are getting 0.8, close enough. next was hte secondary coil resistance test. the manual calls for 10.2K to 13.8K Ohms and we are getting 16.8K Ohms, again close enough.

Next it wanted us to do the distributor air gap test. the book calls for between .008 to .016 we are getting somewhere inbetween so that is good.

After that the signal generator was next. the book wants you to check the Resistance between terminal G- to each of the other 3 terminals. it wants any where between 140 and 180 Ohms. we are getting 160 Ohms across all 3.

We are at a loss here guys. we dont know what to do. since we dont have an FSM to check my 88 ECM we cant do all the tests we need to do.

Sorry for the long post guys, we could really use yalls help.
thanks.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

check the basics. are you getting Fuel? (crack the cold start injector line to test that) Are you getting spark?

Most replaced part I have seen on those 88 V6 trucks/4runners is the Ignitor.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

btw code 14 is ignition signal, so I put my money on Ignitor, or Distributor.

SEAIRESCUE

Getting fuel? Plugs wet?

Getting spark? Pull a plug and ground it to see.

timing belt failed?

fuel pump quit?

You can shoot some wd40 into the intake, through one of the vacuum ports on the passenger side, to see if it tries to crank. If so, got a fuel problem.

Could be a bad coil inside distributor.

Fuses all good?

Just some ideas.........

881stGenRunner

yes, it is getting fuel. We are not getting spark, whenever we pull a wire off a plug, there is not spark. dont know what my dad did, but there is definately no spark.

when you say the igniter. do you mean the little gray/silver box sitting on top of the coil?

881stGenRunner

all fuses are good. see other post for other checks.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

yes the silver box on top of the coil is the ignitor. Well known for going out, and its a one year only part.

So again, i say, either ignitor, or distributor. sounds like the Distributor is ok, so i would look right at that ignitor.

SEAIRESCUE

If I remember correctly, there is a coil in the distributor that sends a variable sine wave to the ECU. However, Toyotas are notorious for the ignition module going open despite ohm readings. There is a transistor in there that fails. Get another ignition module, flat gizmo next to coil, and plug it in. Bet you the cost of the part that's it.

881stGenRunner

okay, is there any test for the ignitor to make sure it is bad?

We opened up the ignitor and it appeared to just be 5 wires that are soldered then come out of the box. from there they run to a green plug. whenever i order a new one does it come with this connector?

Is this a dealer only part, or can i get it at Advanced?

thanks death

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

dont go dealer or advanced. Get it from a wrecking yard. When you do, it comes with the coil as an entire assembly, and aits all plug and play.

that aftermarket junk usually requires modifications, and splicing, and the dealer wants an arm and a leg for it.

I did a local check for yards in GA, and there appears to be none that I could find with that part. However, check car-part.com there are a ton listed. Just make sure they match part numbers to yours, and include the coil as an assembly. And I would suggest buying one that says it is tested, even if it is a little more. A little peace of mind is worth a lot.

881stGenRunner

aite man cool, thats what me and my dad were just talking about doing. ill see what we can fine.

Thanks a lot man, hopefully this will help some more people that are having similar problems, because i couldnt find anything with the search bar.

881stGenRunner

another quick question. Will an ignitor from an 89 work on my 88 or is 88 a stand alone year that has to be replaced by another 88?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

I am not 100% sure, but I think an 89 4runner will work. So interchange would be 88-89 4runner, and 88 only truck.

881stGenRunner

the reason i ask is because of this ignitor i found on eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...spagenameZWD1V

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

that is NOT the same one as yours. That is 89+ truck, and 90+ 4runner. That will NOT work in your truck.

remember always match part #s

881stGenRunner

ya i was aware that it was not the same ignitor, i just wanted to make sure with you that that ignitor was for sure an 89 and it was not mis-marked.

az4x4runner

Looks like I may be joining you in a hunt for a new ignitor soon. I've had a code 14 for a while, pulled the EFI fuse a few days ago, gonna check for it again tomorrow. Mine will still start, but I notice sometimes (very rarely) not on the first try.

Green93

Sorry to hijack the thread but I was wondering...will a bad ignitor/coil always throw a code? I'm suspecting mine but it's not throwing a code.

Thanks.

86tuning

If you're having ignition problems and your G and NE pickups are fine (which yours evidently are from your tests) then I'll shotgun coil + igniter.

The ohm-meter test for coils doesn't work. It can test good, but still not work.

Get both from a wreckers and plug them in.

thook

Is the CEL atleast coming on when you turn the key to ignition?