You can test the distributor... I believe the pickup coil on yours is bad.

There is a test for the dizzy in the FSM

Check the air gap and test resistance.

The resistance test is simple. Remove cap, Use your ohm meter between the terminals on the plug, verify that the resistance is between 140-180 ohm's. If not- replace distributor.

The Air gap test is more intricate- with cap off use a thickness gauge to measure between signal rotor and signal generator. It needs to be between .008 and .016- you can use the gauges we used when we did the valve adjustment. If anything bigger than .016 or smaller than .008 fits between the gap, replace the dizzy.

The FSM has a better explanation with illustrations.

 

AND- you don't have to replace the dashpot... just set it right, do this by raising the set scre UP slightly. About 3/32 of an inch would work.
Just enough to eliviate the rough spot not letting it idle down completely... put a slight bit of silicone or just lithium grease on it and call it good.

 

SWEET! ok, will do! Thanks, Flecker!

Yeah, I was reading the Dashpot section of Roger's, and I've missed that as I hadn't a need to dive into that until now. It says, "I find it a good adjustment to back it off to half way through the travel of the Dashpot, eliminating any 'sticky' spots but allowing it to still function". It's sticking only near the bottom, and the silicon seemed to free it up at the top a lil, making it not drag 'AS MUCH' initially, but then it still was sticking at bottom out ....So that's what I'll be doing, then next on to IACV clean up attempt. Then I'll test the Dizzy for 'functionality', ...gotcha! Hopefully the IACV will free itself up......Of course, I can only get started on this stuff after I wait in line at AAA......

...AAA explanation, lol; I've been dealing with the DMV, well, I eventually did.....since I'd been on hold for 3.75 HOURS! Tags thing, remember? Well, .....I'M GOING TO AAA, right now, because they told me there was a 'longer than usual wait'(kinda like when they say on hold, "DMV Agent wait time is more than 10 minutes, you might want to call back another day"...uhhhh...I guess they mean ANYTHING MORE THAN 10 MINUTES, ...means, possibly, DAYS ON HOLD?!?! lol...Once again, CAN'T WAIT for 'them' to take over EVERYTHING, ....wont it be nice? ) DMV said they will cancel sending my tags and have sent approval to the DMV so that I can get them TODAY, ....yes, 14 DAYS LATE!

Do you have a good site I could check out as per directions on soldering that shielded connection PURRRFECT? I remember what you said, peeling it back, then folding the shielding back over each other once soldered and heat shrink is applied....but with the TINY amount of wire I have left to work with, before the harness(on that end, under the Coil, ya know?), I just don't wanna muck it up. I'll also be up by Signal Electronics so I'm going to get the 6G wire from them, some smaller shielded wire, and then return the kit you see in the video to Kragen....OH YEAH, and return that Reman'd AFM.....eeek, don't wanna get her in trouble! Jk, she's the boss there, lol.

Thanks for all your input, help and patience, Flecker... Sorry I'm so anal about this stuff at times, .... Once I get it done, I don't stress the same over getting it right the next time...but for SOME REASON(could be OCD, can't prove anything though, hahah), I just stress on doing things as 'perfect' as possible, and .....well, sometimes that just makes for MORE PROBLEMS! lol. Let me know, btw, about when you want me to drop by somewhere and take care of the ECU, OK? Got that for ya! Or if you're near by or whatever, anytime soon...Like to take care of that.

 

Hey Guys, I'm going to try and do a lil video of the Dashpot adjustment, maybe the Dizzy check and IACV cleaning without removing it attempt....when I have time, maybe tonight as I don't have to cook again tonight! THANK GOD FOR GRADUATION SEASON! HAHAHA!

I just figured that, if some are more 'visually' absorbing, as I am, it might help someone down the road.

Talk to you all, soon!

Chef OUT4NOW

 

The 02 sensor wiring needs to be adressed as such:

Peel back ground shield on both ends.

Solder MAIN wire only- not the shield. Be sure to slide over 2 pieces of shrink tubing before you solder ANYTHING.

Heres why.

You need to shrink tube the main wire after you solder.... THEN, fold over the ground shields so they overlap. Smear some dielectric grease on them, then slide over the OTHER shrink tube and heat it.

You get it?

DO NOT let the ground wire make contact anywher on the exposed main.

And this is no gaurantee to fix the o2 sensor mind you, but the connection will be solid.

The O2 could be related to something else entirely... but you WILL at leat rule out the connection as a source of failure.

 

so chef alot of the issue was the ecu the whole time?. I cant believe that my random poke in the dark (i actually thought extremely hardabout it) was the main source. Yes i still see there are some minor kinks, but WOW i should go play the lottery

 

I need to get over to Trader Joes for some of those dang mango juice things.... I keep itching my arm like a junkie.

Post up any progress!

 

glad to hear your running, hopefully the little things can now get worked out

 

GOT IT! I actually ended up having to take some family to a get together in Santa Monica(after driving to Lawndale to return that AFM you saw and, yes, TO GET MY TAGS! woot, woot! LOL),.....they wanted to drink and not drive, ....so, being the sober sheep in the family, I obliged,....granting they understood, ..."I WILL NOT be picking you up, so you better call 'Safe-Ride' or have a sober ride home!''.....20-somethings, pfffffffst, hahaha. Got back around 8pm and had to do a lil dessert prep for them, here, for when they get back from the movies with some friends around 10pm, but I got out for a minute and adjusted the Dashpot Adjusting Screw back a bit, adjusted the idle and FLECKER....IT'S PURRING, other than what I can only say doesn't seem like the CAM, more like an occasional intermittent miss, along with some strange idle sticking issues...........Let me explain...

Cold start up; Idles a lil low, about 500rpm, sometimes 600, then kinda creeps up to 700 or so. The Idle Screw was out a lil too much so I backed that down(which I'm assuming will have me about 400rpm at start up until I tap the throttle).

Beginning to warm up; It then crawled up to about 900, so I went around, pushed back the on the linkage and nothing, ....adjusted the screw in a lil more, seemed to be purring. Drove around the block trying to hit peacocks, ...eh chemmmm, I mean trying NOT to hit them, and then stopped, and even though it was up around 9, it did not jump up and down in idle when pressing hard on the break. I got out, set it back down further, to 750rpm and let it run, and DANGGGGGG it's sounding good! Just that lil pup-pup every now and then, pretty consistently but in no pattern and not too close together, ...(maybe every 5 seconds, then 8, then 3, etc.?)

Fully Warm; It holds at 2/5ths Temp on the gauge, runs a lil high if I don't adjust it back down(the idle screw in the TB) , but isn't surging up and down when higher(900rpm.....thinking it's sticking a lil or it's just the IACV not able to make up it's mind, lol. I didn't have time to clean it out and I wanted to test drive it with the Dashpot adjusted in.)

Tomorrow after breakfast; I will adjust the idle back up to a lil over a 1000 just to test out the theory, and also reconnect the booster while I have the idle down to double check/POE, etc. I will also clean the IACV well, as best as I can, but I want to try and test some of what I've read and what you've added as well. I'm also going to Meter the IACV for the heck of it, ..why not, right? Trying to see where that test is if there is one, lol.

JUICE SQUEEZE, MANGO OR OTHERWISE, IS INSANELY ADDICTING! lol. Sorry about that! But hey, they're 100 times better for us than Soda, ya know? Oh yeah, and I FORGOT, ....AGAIN, to give you the Dreamstone, lol. Oh well, next time if you're back this way. That Juice Squeeze is avail. at other stores, but it always seems to be WAY more. Tj's also has more Hansens Flav's, so it's a win win going there, yah? lol.

I'll do my best to button this up or figure out where I'm at, asap, Flecker, ok?

Thanks again,

Mark

 

YES, AND I KNEW YOUR NAME WAS KRESKIN! lol. Jk, ....Thanks for always checkin in and adding yer 2cents, Brudda! Very much enjoying this truck again, and I'm SURE that will only grow considering I DID SO MUCH OF IT MYSELF! ...As I will as well with the OME or whatever I do. I really like the feeling of knowing it's done 'right', ...even if it takes me longer, because CRAP HAPPENS when you're out there, and if you have NO IDEA what to look for, ....holy moly! lol. I CAN'T COUNT the times I've driven this thing and the white one, too, 2THOUSAND MILES, never knowing how to adjust the valves or do a timing chain to save me HUNDREDS OF HEADS OF CABBAGE! LOL. Even the basic function of the ECU And Sensors, when there is something tricky, can throw even more experienced people for a loop, but eventually, IF YOU DON'T GIVE UP, ...it's GOT to get figured out eventually. ....just need time and LOTS OF MONEY for some of it! hahaha.

PS> How's it' going with yours, bro? You're waiting on a couple things, right?

 

NO HOPEFULLY, COOPS! lol.....Jk, I know, stuff happens. Honestly though, I think I've got it pretty tight...especially with Flecker's experience and eye to back me up or verify or nudge me against this or that...or just to plain calm me down! lol. Nah, actually, it's really been fun, ...it just seemed like IT MUST have been 20 things, all working against each other, ....and in a sense, it was, ...the ECU controls around 20 things, right? hahaha.

Thanks for your input, Coops. I hope to continue, eventually, in my 'build' thread, once I can say, 'OK, ...THIS TROUBLESHOOTING CRAP IS DUNNNNN!" LOL.

Hope you had a great weekend, and DON'T WORK TOO HARD now that it's over! lol.

 

Sup Yotatech?

Ok, today I did this when I had a couple hours......

Drilled out the hole for my other bolt to hold down the Cold Air Brace....


Popped it in with a fresh bolt and washer-nut so it wont come out(lock washer on the other side, also......


Did the Dizzy inspection, which the book says is .008-.016 ....seemed pretty snug with the .016 gauge feeler. .......Then found this was loose! Maybe that's why I lost my freon so fast a few years ago?..........


Then took some pics of the Rig for fun........

 

boy i do loooove your truck.....but there's no mud on it......hehehehhe

 

F U and your superbly immaculate 4runner!!!

hehe

 

Well allright! See you got it over to the other side of the hill today!

How's it driving?

On the dizzy did you check resistance at the plug also, to the specs I put down before?

That thing is clean!

OH- and where are you guys getting the zip pad on the roll bars? Do they still sell those? Need one for whitey....

 

92, hahaha. Trust me, when I get to the Sequoias and Sierras and even the Angeles Crest, it will get FILTHY. More water this year, so surely more 'messy stuff', lol.

Joe, WHY I NEVA! LOL. Thanks man! I'm sure yours will be TRICKED OUT! I'm going to do a few more things to it, get it up a lil, etc., but it's just not practical for me to totally Crawler it out, lol. Love watching others do it, however! lol.

Flecker, thanks man....means a lot coming from a guy who spent around 15 hours on it! lol. THANKS!

Ok, well, I think I did the gap test right, it was hard to get the dizzy post edges up against the pick up thingy, ...but it was around 1/3rd in from the side and was kinda like when we did the valve thing,...when you had me check the 'feel'...it was like that with the .016. So, I figure if it was all the way in it would be around .012-.014, which is within what the book says. It also said there was a way to adjust that pick up inward toward the posts. I'll keep reading when I have more time tonight.

To be honest, I tried some resistance tests, but I need to read tonight without being interrupted 48 times(dang people, who do they think they are??? lol....Oh yeah, hahaha)...plus his son came over, so that stopped me again. Anyway, .....I don't think I understand, fully, what you mean by 'plug'. And, well, considering I didn't really know for sure if I was doing the ohm tests by the book properly, from post edge to post edge and post edge to rotor-post tooth, .....I didn't think I knew what you meant, EVEN MORE, lol. The book is pretty clear, with pictures, on the air gap...but the resistance?...not so much. Sorry man, I'm really visual when it comes to doing things for the first time. I worry that I can't rule something out if I can't be sure I'm doing it right in the first place. lol....any further description would be GREATLY appreciated....

I also tested out peeling back the insulation on the shielded wire, and it came out fine. I'll be sure to post pics as I go to be sure I'm doing it right.(how much to peel it back, etc.) I can NOT find my solder gun, but got some good solder at Signal Electronics yesterday. I'll stop by Harbor Freight tomorrow and grab one. I hope it clears up the O2 code that's thrown upon the first rev of the engine....cuz I can't really be sure what it would be, otherwise, other than a faulty or damaged new Denso 02, lol. We'll see! Also, I adjusted the Dashpot stop screw out FAIRLY FAR and it's still starting out low, creeping up as it warms up, and sticking high after warmed. This made it hard to test the IACV thing out because it kept creeping up after just getting warm and didn't want to get below 1000, unless I got out and either adjusted the idle adjustment screw back in or pushed on the throttle linkage.

The Zip pad came with my white one and when I went to the yard where it sat bent in half?.....I YOINKED it off and put it on this one, later.(I knew I was going to buy another one...especially since I LIVED THROUGH THAT! lol)

 

PS> Flecker,

It's driving very well. Responsive, no stalling, ....just a fairly erratic miss that clears up as it gets warm. I'd like to figure that out, especially since it should be staring out in high idle and then dropping down as it warms up, ya know? lol.

Also, I disconnected the booster and drove up to Malaga Cove.....around half way there, it started to do that up and down thing again. It also was doing that, earlier, with the booster port plugged, IACV just cleaned as best as possible and the truck warmed up....but idling up to 1000 or so again. Seems that something is either wrong with one or the other, but it's so hard to tell because it does it either way, and I CAN'T SEEM TO GET IT TO STAY DOWN! It doesn't really wanna go over 1200 if I don't touch it at all....but then I adjust it down when it's around 1/3 on the Temp Gauge, and within a block or two it's back up, so I have to screw the idle screw in even further. Thing is, if I leave it in when cold the next morning, ...it get's all chunky and is wanting to idle around 500 or less, then creeps up slowly.

Sorry, that's the best I can describe it for now, lol, ....really tired at the moment. Another big party to do, tomorrow, and then I'm free any day I want during the rest of the week,...so I plan on getting this figured out asap! The miss thing? Not sure why it's doing that. I really don't think it's the CAM, because at times, it seems to run without nearly ANY pupping at all, and then later on it will do it again. When fully warm it's seemingly less, and smoother like VERY much more...but it's so up and down I'm having trouble figuring it out, lol. All in all, IT'S 100 TIMES WHERE IT WAS, so trust me, Flecker...I'M ECSTATIC! Just hate having lil gremlins running around, ya know? lol

 

By the dizzy plug I mean that wire set that runs from the igniter over to the dizzy and plugs into the distributor..... the green plug!

You can put your meter on ohm's and verify it meets specs, between .140 and .180 ohms I believe.

If it's off, then you need a new one. The air gap is what you checked with you feeler gauge, and if .016 was tight then thats fine.

It may very well be your booster is toast, but it is completely normal if your idle creeps up over 1k for it to bounce and surge like it was. Just need to have the idle set at 750-800... I prefer 800-ish, but thats your call!

Really minior stuff at this point for you, nothing some time diagnosing wouldn't cure. I am gonna be slammed at work the next 2 weeks, and Sunday I am gonna take pops to breakfast and listen to him whine about his job

I might try to sneak by Friday after work and snag that fitty from ya!

 

Ok, Flecker, ...Gotcha. Yeah, that is in the book, but I have to be humble and honest and say, ....I THOUGHT YOU MEANT THE PLUG WIRES! HAHAHA. Yeah, I was about to test that plug today when I had to run.

Cool to be with Pops on Sunday...wish my dad wasn't in AZ! grrr. lol.

The thing with the creeping idle is one thing, but the surging idle, even with the booster plugged? It didn't do it when it was below 1000, like you said. But then, even with it plugged up and after cleaning the IACV, the idle still surged up and down when it went over 1000 or so. So it could still be either, right?

I'm still kinda confused as to why it idles so low when cold then hikes up gradually and wants to stay high, ....and keep in mind, I'm getting out along the way and adjusting the idle screw in the throttle body back in as it creeps up on the driving around town stuff. I start out with the idle screw out when cold, then by the time it's fully warmed up and driven around a bit, I'm having to screw it almost all the way in. Telling of anything besides maybe the booster, or possibly the IACV staying open?(not sure on that, as when I pinch it off it's not changing in idle at all when fully warm)

Yeah, STOP BY and grab it, ....maybe your dad would like the Dreamstone Muscato, too? Oh, btw, ....did you get yer fix yet? hahahahaha. You gotta try the Raspberry ones too, Fleck....seriously, JUST AS GOOD! lol

 

Sounds like the Idle Air control is still sticking causing you to "screw the screw" back down. generally on the 22re the idle screw set "about right" should be about 1/16-1/8 of an inch out from "flush"....If you understood that... sometimes i dunno if i do

Have you tried tapping on the IAC when your idle is high?

And your bad cold starts are because of yea your idle screw is down soo far from your "screwing your screw" deal

That screw should really never be touched and the IACV is supose to "control" most of your idle. So i'm leaning toward it still sticking and a possible repalcement maybe in order unless you try "tapping" it "truck running" and it might free up.