ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Many who run into this thread will know my rig and issues.....If you don't, and if you feel you might have even the SLIGHTEST smidgen of input, no matter how dumb it might sound...Please, chime in?

87 4Runner, Fully rebuilt(in my sig), ....still running like crap MOST of the time....just like before the engine replacement.

Symptoms;

1. When cold, it ALMOST purrs....beginning to even give me SMALLER idle problems cold though.
2. Still, it's ok when cold, but within a minute it goes into open loop(NOT SURE that has anything to do with it...but seems so), where it will idle down(within 5 seconds or so, not immediate)..sputter and seem to miss and, well, RUN LIKE CRAP, thereafter that first minute.
3. It doesn't stall, but that's probably because I have the idle-air screw out so much just to keep the idle up.
4. When running this way, if I back out the driveway and head up the street, it will BARELY want to move, until about 3000rpm's(sometimes, 2500) and then BAT out of hell, like a powerband. 2nd gear, same thing, then third, it's smoother, but still not all it should be. By the time I get around the block, park it, ....it seems to be purring(tiny miss but nothing SCARY).
5. It will purr when 'DRIVEN OUT OF THIS HICCUP', at idle, for about a minute(more if I'm lucky, like tonight...3 MIN! i know, i know, lol). But, eventually, the idle drops back down and it's the same old thing...AT IDLE! If I drive it at this point, it doesn't hesitate, etc.

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Parts I"ve replaced before and after build(build is not even 30 Miles old):

1. New Denso O2(very recent, ...6 Hours of time on it)
2. New Denso Coolant Temp Sensor(20 Minutes of engine time on it)
3. New Denso Thermo-Temp-Time-Switch(in thermo-housing)
4. New Aisin Fuel Pump(today)
5. New Water Pump, Radiator, hoses, belts and OEM thermostat
6. Newer Battery and Brand new ND-Alternator
7. ALL new Vaccum Lines, large and small
8. New Denso Plugs, Aftrmrkt. Rotor, Cap and Magnecore 8.5MM Wires
9. New HD Daikin Clutch Kit, Master and Slave as well

I might have missed something, but I'll add it later or if it comes up...

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I've recently tested;

1. EGR(checked out ok according to manual(Vacuum Pump test)
2. BVSV(Vacuum pump and gauge Test)
3. AFM (Readings weren't very good)....Used one in mail, maybe Monday..not sure that's it though
4. TPS (Readings weren't 'great' on this, either...I'll post them here in a few)


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Going to check;

1. Fuel Pressure Regulator
2. In depth AFM Check(if swap doesn't work, I doubt that's it)
3. I have a TPS, but it's brand new and I can't return it if I install it.
4. YOU TELL ME? LOL

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I'd be very grateful for ANY AND ALL INPUT! Please, don't think anything is 'stupid' or 'pointless' to mention...I'M STUCK, and I am down to a few things that I can either no further check, ....or that I'll have to just replace to find out(if I can find them used or someone to swap with, know what I mean?)

I am wearing the usage of my employers car VERY THIN, and it's beginning to be a problem.

SO MANY good people have helped me on here, thus far, with other issues that could have been CATASTROPHES! ....But guys, I'M STUCK, and I really need a miracle NUGGET.

Thanks, in advance,

A grateful Fellow Yota Lover!

BUILD THREAD AND ISSUES MORE INDEPTH ON RED THREAD LINK, BELOW. If you read back a couple pages, you'll pretty much get a FULL checklist and idea of where I'm at, if this is lacking above....Thanks again, Mark

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

I was going to mention check your FPR and fuel pump. Other than that i assume you aren't getting any missfires from any cylinders? How is your distributor? Plug wires?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Swimmer, good to hear from ya!

Well, I don't think it's a distributor issue, and I've replaced the Plugs, Wires, Cap and Rotor very recently. Seems to get fine spark and seems more likely to be emissions or fuel or vacuum OR ALL, related, lol. Could very well be the AFM, like the dealer guy I know thought...but even he sent it back because he couldn't find one to swap it out with. Could also be the TPS< I've heard some issues sounding like mine ending up being the TPS...but then others where it was a VSV...so it's really up in the air until someone STICKS THAT DONKEY! lol.

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

If it's a vacuum line, i wish you luck my friend. Toyota has a million of them on the 22re!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Don't think it's a line, either. I marked them, meticulously, and they're all new. I just mean maybe a Vacuum actuator like the VSV, or something with vacuum that doesn't open until the temperature comes up a bit(but I've pretty much covered those..) so I just don't know any more, man! lol

PismoJoe

Hey chef, did you ever just for fun check resistance on your TPS and see if it was adjusted right? Can't remember if you did in your build thread

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'll copy and paste it, here. ...Thanks for reminding me, lol.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

TPS;

0mm: VTA-E2- 2.5 initially > held at .65 at end
.57mm: IDL-E2 - 3.6-3.4-2.4> held .01 at end
.85mm: IDL-E2 - began with 5, held .01 at end
Fully Open: VTA-E2 - Held 4.21 at end
(" ?) : Vcc-E2 - Held 5.68 at end

AFM;

E2-Vs at 75degrees --- 32 to 70 then held at .2
E2-Vc at 75degrees --- 23 to 27 then held at .2 -(when removing the prod's one time, jumped to 180, but never again)
E2-Vb at 75degrees --- 33 to 43 then held at .3
E2-THA at 75 degrees- Held at 2.2
E1-Fc --- It read nothing, meter reading didn't change from display(is that infinity?) I'll read again, must have missed it.

Also important(I THINK, lol) to mention is that the dealer pointed out to me that the adjustment screw on the AFM had been sealed up with Black RTV. The top of this hole is cracked off(size of a large pea piece), but doesn't appear to have any cracks through the meter itself. Also, the screw inside that hole appears to have been adjusted at times. Also what might be important? It runs when that screw is FULLY screwed clockwise

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

try pulling codes.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

TPS link; http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

AFM link; http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

Above is what they are SUPPOSED to be...I just can't paste them, they come together all screwy on here. Sorry, ...but they're all on those pages

PismoJoe

You can turn that screw tight and it runs fine?

PismoJoe

just realized you said you tested the TPS lol but thanks for the readings

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Vital,

No codes,...NOT ONE, lol. Wish it were that easy. I have a working check engine light and I know it functions. (Just pull your TPS when it's running and it should throw you a code)---Just for anyone needing a quick trick to check it.

PismoJoe

Ha I love OBDI :

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, ....and I would say, "I KNOW, ...CAN YOU BELIEVE IT?"...but I have no idea if that means shizzle, lol. It was like that, when rtv was yanked out of there. I'm starting to think that it's got hairline cracks in it. I think it's just those normal aluminum deformities, ....but I wanna do a smoke test EVENTUALLY, lol. Can't seem to find anyone to do it.

BTW, the readings i did? When i say "started at 2.4 and ended at .65" just as an example, ....it isn't jumping around, the meter I mean. It just takes a second or less to read resistance. It's a decent Radio Shack one, ....but not a Snap On, ya know? lol Just so you know, ...the meter works I'm pretty sure, and it's new. I'm getting a resistor tomorrow from Radio Shack, just to be sure(Thanks 4Crawler!)

flecker

Why is the cold start injector not at the top of your list?

Look at what you wrote. Then think about it for a minute.


OK, now running ok cold makes sense when you first fire it up. The cold start injector kicks on and pours gas into the intake. When it warms up the ECU gets a signal to kill the cold start injector. If the cold start injector is faulty then you just continue to flood out, run like crap and super rich.

Any dark smoke? Have you tried a different ECU to see if possibly it isn't kicking the cold start injector off?

First thing I look at when it starts fine then starts to bog and rough up when the engine gets to operating temp.

Just throwing that out there. And quit throwing money and parts at it!
Just get j-yard parts, they are cheaper and you can pretty much get all the stuff at one time from a donor rig to diagnose with.

Heck, you can diagnose the cold start with a meter. 2-4 ohms.

When it warms up have you tried to set the air screw back down to see if it improves?

PismoJoe

Wow....cold start that does make sense.

I would definitely check the cold start temp sensor and temperature switch #2 before getting a new ECU though

flecker

I just went back and loked at your post again.

Adjust the TPM within spec, use 4crawlers site for the how to.

And what's the deal with your AFM?

Either way.... ohm out the cold start, see that it reads between 2-4 ohms.

It can be tested on the vehicle, download the FSM and check it out.

flecker

He doesn't need a new one, this is yotatech... borrow a buddys! Real bro's let you use parts to test with.

coops2k

ok, I do not know if I can help or not.

some thing I was told a long time ago, always start with the basic. I would bet you have done this, but do it again. Reset everything to a base line, check the vacuum line go to the right places, are your connections good (wiring, pins), etc.

I am guessing you have a Toyota shop manual?
I looked up "rough idle or stalls" & "poor acceleration"
1)distributor - check air gap - check pickup coil - check governor advance
2) is there a choke system, have you checked it?

and I have got some fingers and toes crossed for ya