PS> how much should I spend for springs in the rear that will bolt right up? Long Beach Spring does tons of them and I have a buddy who knows someone there. Maybe no deal is in order, but at least I know I can trust them, eh? lol. He said, "They will build them, to specs, for your truck, while you wait, ......you can leave in a short time with them or let them do it". I have Rancho 9000's on there that a Friend gave me, .....but I think they might be toast cuz the springs were really bad when I put them on and now they're all but FLAT, lol, ....so is it possible that they're pretty toasted from being compressed all this time?

Just asking cuz the OME is 900$ for the whole thing, Torsion bars, steering stabl., Bj's, Brake proport. kit, shocks all around and heavy duty spring pack......just think it's gonna be hard to beat that by piecing it all together, no?

Thanks,

Mark

 

Manfiold pressure (vacuum) is determined by/proportional to the amount of air entering the engine. For example...
At idle, you have more vacuum. The air intake is restricted by the limited throttle opening. Normally this means less fuel pressure is present as less pressure is needed.
At throttle opening, there is less vacuum, and normally this means a rise in fuel pressure as more pressure is needed.
But, with a small vac leak at the fuel rail/regulator/and more pointedly at the manifold you have more fuel pressure than you need when at idle and not enough at throttling opening. So, your engine's running a bit wonkey. That little doodad's only there for hot cranking conditions....nothing else.

As for the CEL coming on, it's just the ECU trying to heat the O2 sensor and/or find a voltage signal. At idle, the ECU is in open loop, so it doesn't need O2 sensor input........until you hit the throttle. Based on ECT sensor input and engine load/AFM input, the heater circuit for the sensor is normally triggered so that ECU can then try and make fuel adjustments. But, it can't find the sensor when it's needing it, so it throws the code. Make sense?

 

Yes, Thook, ....that makes sense. Ok, so, either the ECU, AFM, or the wiring somewhere between the Harness and O2 is possibly wonky, ......correct? lol. The interesting thing is, the ECU I had in there, that we suspect is bad, was NOT throwing this code. In fact, with the other one installed, there were, LITERALLY, no codes. I would lean toward that being due to a faulty ECU, but I guess it's never 100% until you rule everything out. I still want to(very possibly need to) replace the wiring where I spliced for the O2 relocation with shielded wire.(The O2 wiring LCE gave me was a single wire, not shielded). I know that might not be the problem, but like Flecker said, "To rule it out, replace it". I have a good solder gun, borrowed from my neighbor, and I also have a wind of good solder and heat shrink tubing. So I should be ok on that.

If that doesn't fix it, I"ll go from there.

Just so I have this straight on the VSV. I understand that it's only pulling vacuum on hot cranking necessity.....However, if it's NOT resisting and staying shut when it's supposed to, ...it is possible that it's pulling vacuum on the FPR when it's not needed?

 

Anyone have any clue as to how EXACTLY to adjust my clutch so it engages a lil sooner? I think it's just breaking in, and it's fine as far as no chattering, etc. It's just that it was releasing right off the floor, now it's more toward the top. I see that thread on the Clutch Master piston...I'm assuming that's the ticket. Just curious how to get what I'm looking for. I looked in the Haynes but it's VERY vague on that and doesn't seem to actually expound on adjusting the clutch at all.(maybe I'm missing it, any help?)

PS> I got a lil freaked out today. I wired it up to check codes and it threw like 10! lol..... I guess it was all stored from doing the throttle body stuff and dielectric greasing the Distributor pick up connector, ....oil sender, ..lol. Odd thing is that it's not been coming on so fast until this time. Even yesterday, it didn't come on until I raced the motor, and now it's coming on right off? One other thing. The way this thing is throwing codes, it's more like the 88 and newer ECU's do it....(again, according to Haynes)...So I'm wondering if in fact I have an 88ECU in here and was thinking it's an 87? I thought the 88 and up were different cuz of different resistance values, etc.? Can't read the number on this one, so I can't be sure, but Flecker picked it up from a guy he knows and checked the rig, so it's out of an 87,....just curious why it's throwing codes like an 88 and up model? ( Trust me, Flecker, ...I'm NOT doubting your find, brother! lol. We couldn't even keep it running hardly before we put it in. Just curious, that's all.... Also, thought maybe it might have something to do with throwing the O2 Code)

Thook, I tested the VSV via the book, and the best I can tell is that it's not shutting off or holding vacuum when it's supposed to. It says put 12 volts to power and ground the negative terminal of the VSV, then pump air into port B, it should hold vacuum. It does...IF I HOLD port A closed. It also says to pump vacuum into port A and it should come out the filter, but not the B port at all(with 12 volts on it)....it does come out and go through port B. I know my Battery is pumping 12.67 volts, ...so unless I'm hooking it up wrong(not sure how with only 2 prongs in there, lol), then it seems to be bad.

One more thing, guys. I am REALLY low on space to work with that O2 Wire(at the harness) And I mean, REALLY, lol! It's already kinda sceery for me, as I'm totally newb to soldering and then heat shrinking 2 layers due to being shielded....now it's got me pretty intimidated, lol.

 

Drove almost 2 blocks, just babying it, and it finally threw the O2 code. Very funny, ....ha, .....ha! lol.

Anyway, it drove pretty well, today, ..... just a lil chunky at start, taking off down the road(seemed to be doing that same thing a lil, where it hesitates a lil bit and then BAMMO, ....but only once, and then it was ok) Thing is, ...it did that, before, then it got really bad for a couple weeks before Flecker came by the first time. Hope it's not relearning all it's cooky stuff! lol.

Have a great weekend, guys.

Mark

 

Replies in red.....Fred

 

'89 and up are different.

You need to adjust the push rod going through the firewall....
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2checkand.pdf

 

Thanks alot, Thook!

Ok, I'll explain what I think was on the build thread, ....PAGES AND PAGES ago, lol........

Before the build, about a month before, the truck began running very odd. It was terrible cold, then ok for a couple minutes when going into closed loop, then back to crap after fully warm. I threw an O2 code.(First, I replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor, because SO MANY suggested it was suspect and it wasn't expensive....Got a Napa one, then replaced it with a Denso...Not much if any change). I replaced the Original O2 with a Bosch(not knowing what I've learned since), which didn't change much at all. I then got an OEM Denso O2, replaced it, and the symptoms flipped>>It began running great cold, then crappy in initial closed loop, then back to smooth when fully warm(however, this lil pup-pup miss was still there.....it got worse, and since the build it's still there). Toward the end, before rebuilding, it began to idle down on it's own, after warming up a lil bit.(You'd start it, ran great, then about 30 seconds, max, into running, it would begin to idle down to about 500rpm or less). This is why the idle adjustment screw was so far out on the orig. throttle body, I believe...It needed to be screwed out just to get it to run at 750 and KINDA smoother. When Flecker brought the ECU, I replaced it, and it stopped idling down, ....and in fact, it then had a lil issue of idling up from cold at 700 or so to about 1000 or more Rpm. Since I've re-adjusted the TPS on the donor Throttle body, replaced the IACV, it seems to not be idling up MUCH any more. It still does it on occasion....but when I come home, after driving around for about an hour, it seems to sit right at 750-800 and idles VERY smooth(minus the lil pup-pup, which also seems less after it's really warm and driven around for quite a while). However, the O2 code is still there, lol.

Right after the build, I put the header on, from LCE, which puts the O2 Sensor back about 2 feet from the original location, where it was in the factory exhaust(above collector a few inches). LCE gives you a wire, which I spliced(added in)from the harness by the Cruise Control unit to the original connector on the harness side........(Btw, the shielded wire has NEVER been connected since I've owned the vehicle, and it ran PERFECT for about 100K miles(I bought it with 100k, put 100k on it in 3 years, touring, lol). EDIT: I typed more but it didn't paste properly....>>> I was gonna add that I'm really intimidated by wiring stuff, and I've never really soldered anything, .....AND, since I have hardly ANY wire to work with at the harness side, I"m not sure how to get enough w/out pulling back the harness and bringing it up above the hood so I have more space to solder(cuz I'm a newb to that). It's also a lil more complicated cuz it's shielded wire that I'm trying to replace, which, like I said, has NEVER been hooked up since I bought it 160k miles ago). Flecker also mentioned that some people just replace the wire at the ECU, or near there, and maybe I could run shielded wire from the ECU all the way to the O2. My confusion is in this; The other day, a Guru had me run a check at the diagnostic port, for the O2, ....and it gave me a reading when it had warmed up of back and forth from 300-600, every second, like the guru suggested it should. When it reads like this, doesn't that mean that the ECU is actually getting a signal from it? Also, is it possible that this is an 88 or late 87 ECU which might require two O2 sensors, thus, causing the ECU to say, "hey, no signal from O2"???????

PS> I'll get pics of the wire that I have to work with, so you can see what I mean

 

Sorry, it's not 2 Feet back from orig. I'd say more like a foot. Here's a couple pics of the wires...........

 

That's a good point about a post cat sensor. But, I think those are even a different diagnostic code than 21. Actually, I'm certain of it. However, this is where I start to get lost because I'm not familiar with all the differences from year to year. I'm pretty sure, though, 22re's (for sure on 3vze's) didn't have post cat sensors until a few years later than '88.......or '89, even. Unless, the difference is that it's a CA model. ???? Don't know....at a loss.

Here's the other thing. If you've had this little vac leak at the VSV all this time.....even before the build......then it's obviously not going to stop (though, it may mutate).....the symptom, that is ....until you rectify it. Do try hooking up the vac line directly to the manifold. I'd be real interested to see what happens. If you don't, I'm gonna have to steal a plane and do it for you.......and steal some of yo' chocolates...haha.

 

TURN DOWN YOUR VOLUME AT FIRST, PLEASE? ;

Ok, did some videos for you, Thook and anyone else who might be interested.

First one is of my test of the FPR that you said to try. I got a lil mixed up for a second, but I think it's pretty much what you asked for. Let me know if not.


The rest will be self explanatory;






Thank you, guys, for any input and advice, in advance!

Mark

 

Just a thought Chef...

Since you have fixed the idle up issue, have you put the timing gun back on and reset the timing back between 5 and 8DTC?

Might want to do that now. Might be running a little lean, and it souunds a little lean too.

 

Thanks, Flecker!

I'll take that thought and raise you a POUND OF DARK CHOCOLATE HEAVY CREAM CARAMELS! (.....I need that thought cuz my thinker is on overload so much lately, thanks, hahaha).

Seriously, I hear ya. I'll try that and see. I'm still wondering about the booster, ...again, ...didn't have time to mess with it today. I was out at a Veggie Purveyor today and, a couple times, it idled up to around a thousand, ...then if I tapped the gas with my foot on the break, it would drop down to 800 or so, but go back up. Eventually, I just set the idle screw back in till it sat on 750. Then, it seemed to want to crawl up again...but finally, it stayed down. FRIGGEN STRANGE! lol. Gotcha on the timing, I'll do that first thing tomorrow. I have all day off, and I'm thinking about heading to the Angeles Crest for a couple days. I'll give ya a call before I do, maybe you'll wanna cruise up there and chill in the cool ice melt during the day one day, eh? lol. Either way, I'ma really enjoy that, I NEED IT! lol. I'd like to get my rear sag taken care of, first, as I'll have weight in there.....In fact, I think I'll have to do that, first, ........DANGIT! LOL.

I'll reset it and letcha know. Remember though, Flecker, ....even when it was down, it was having that lil miss and actually, it was giving us some problems. And, in fact, I think I remember you setting it one last time to about 8*, ....but I WILL double check.

Thanks, Flecker, anyone else have any thoughts?

 

I couldn't watch the vid's at work today. Terrible connection and took forever and a day for anything to load, if anything loaded at all. As well, no time right now.

I'll comment on that crawling idle, though. Sounds like a small vacuum leak. Did you bypass that VSV, yet? Hook the FPR directly to the plenum? Or, is that what the first vid is about? Guess I need to watch it tomorrow? Even if you did, still sounds like a small vacuum leak. I had one around the cold start injector after I rebuilt and the idle did exactly what yours is doing. I'll try to explain the phenomena you're seeing tomorrow. Even if I'm wrong and it's not a vacuum leak, you'll atleast learn something...haha. Or, you're thinker will be overloaded even more. Either way, I'm happy to oblige....

 

Thanks Thook,

Looking forward to your input on the vid's. Yeah, the first one is for the VSV/FPR. I got a lil mixed up, but I got to it. I spoke during the whole thing to explain what the idle was doing and such in case one couldn't hear the motor changes too well. The other vid's show how it wants to idle up to 880-1000 at times. After it's fully warm, a half turn on the idle/air screw and it's spot on 750 and stays there. Funny thing is, after 'IT COOLS' a lil, the idle is lower, around 680-700 on start up(but it's kind of warm, so the IACV isn't coming into play and bringing up the idle)....so it's just a matter or trying to get this idle system from having a mind of it's own. The VSV is around 130$ with 20% off. So, I just wanted to be sure before I order it, ya know? I'd like to put this booster variable to rest as well, but haven't had a dang minute today to get out there. Also, see, the problem is that, sometimes, I need my truck to be running, because they use the CRV for hours at a time. So, if I need to go out, which is almost every day for certain fresh items, my truck can no longer be in progress until I have a day or two to take on the Booster, etc., in my spare time. The timing thing will be easy. Not sure what Thook will suggest trying as of yet, so....well, ....we'll see, eh? lol.

Talk to you soon, Guys!

Mark

 

Just wanted to add this.

Last night, when running out for something, my truck had been sitting for several hours, and I started it up and drove a bit and it didn't seem to want to idle above 600rpm. It wasn't dropping from higher, it seemed to always be there. Ahhhhh, ... The only thing I can think of off the top of my head is that, it was much cooler outside than most every other time when I'd been driving it lately. I'm going to check it again in a moment, but it shouldn't be doing that at all! grrr, lol.

 

Were supposed to be moving forward with progress. haha J/K. I have no suggestions, just morale support right now. If you have been meesing with things (I know you have make sure you didn't leave something undone.

 

Hahaha, Hey Alan,

Nah, not had time to mess with anything. I've hopped on and off here when in the kitchen(laptop is always on, lol), but as far as workin on the rig, let alone driving? lol...However, I did start it, today, and it idled up when cold and then down to about 750 and held there. So, not sure what was wrong last night but IT COULD be telling that it was much cooler when it was doing it. VERY possible that it's the AFM. I'm going to read it again, just to be sure, using an idea I have to chill the Air flow-Temp sensor(the cone).

Yeah, I've moved forward, just that miss, it's just got me baffled. I'm trying to find time tomorrow to set the timing and a couple other checks, but still haven't heard any ideas on how I'm going to strip back that insulation on the 02 shielded wire and solder it with so lil exposed. I guess I'll have to peel back the harness, no biggie I suppose. I'm going to track it back anyhow, near the firewall to the ECU, just to see if it's messed up anywhere along the way. But NO WAY, if I don't have to, am I tearing that all out from the radiator well and so forth, hahaha.

Glad you're doing better with yours, Alan.

Mark

 

PS> I'd had 4-15hr+ days in a row, and much of it in the sun(140 by the grill! hahaha). So, tonight, I'm going to watch "The Crazies", .....not sure if it's worth a crap, but it looked ok for a modern day Zombie flick! lol. Watched Wolfman the other night with Hopkins and Del Toro, ....it wasn't bad at all. I just get so exhausted that I like to sit back, watch a flick and let IT do all the work, so I can slip into some fantasy for a couple hours! hahaha.

Anyone seen The Crazies? I'll letcha'all know how it was. I grew up working on sets and eventually cooking for some of them, ..so it's always been something I've enjoyed. I know, I could be reading,...but I've read 14 books this year already, ....I get in spurts of one or the other! lol. "Rules of Prey" was the latest book....VERY intense Serial Murder/mystery!

Ok, sorry, I"m rambling....sorry for anyone who felt they've wasted the last couple minutes reading this! hahahaha.

Night, Bless ya'all,

Mark

 

I need to reread this whole thread now I scored me a firsty.

This thread is like a 22r diagnostic bible.

Nice 87.