I just bought a 87 extended cab carburated 4 cylinder. 167,000 miles. IWhen changing the sparkplugs the number 2 cylinders plug was jacked. There was sooo much carbon built up! It came off fairly easy but still. I'm sure the piston is lined with that stuff? Any way i'm wondering what i could do (besides pullin the head off) to fix that?? Any fuel additives? There are a couple of more wuestions and if someone can help me out that would be great. I bled the brakes because the pedal looses compression after about 2 seconds of being pressed. Everything was fine until the driver side front wheel. When the bleed screw was tightened and the pedal slowly let up fluid came out!! I'm pretty sure that means the caliper needs to be rebuilt??
And the last thing is the suspension. Its so rough! I'm thinking either new shocks or maybe there is something wrong with the torsions? Not really sure. It bounces a lot which means shocks but its just rough all over. like it can't take a hit??
any help would be great! thanks!

 

Fuel additives are usually a bad idea, but if you are gonna use one I reccommend Lucas Racing Oil. Shocks are shot, replace em. Not a brake guy.

 

1.) Change plugs, wires, etc....

2.) Are you bleeding the brakes by yourself?
Are you holding the pedal until the bleed screw is tightened?

3.) Replace your shocks.

 

I a friend let the brake out slowly once I let some fluid drain out of the screw. I tightened the srew and then he let the pedal up. All of the other three wheels acted the same. But the other wheel spit fluid out when the srew was subpostobe tight??
The wires are changed and the timing is correct. I probally need a new distributor cap. Its a little big . like .02 or something. And i was thinking some blistien shock that cost around 70 each...?

 

brakes must be done in a certain order.

specifically, the farthest wheel from the slave cylinder 1st, and the closest one last.
also, it helps when you use 2 different color fluids (blue-gold, than blue, than gold (every 2 years or so)

 

DO NOT LET UP ON THE PEDDAL WHEN THE BLEEDER SCREW IS OPEN

If you do then you are sucking air into the lines causing them to be spongy.

Depress the brake
open the bleeder screw, let the bubbles come out.
close the screw
Let the pedal up

Continue above steps until the brakes are working properly

 

I'm amazed no one has asked the biggest question of all...

 

seafoam the motor to get the carbon build up out.

 

i know how to bleed brakes. my question was about the fluid coming out when the screw was tight. Does that mean the threads are bad or it doesn't seal?? I am loosing pedal compression somewhere.

And what is seafoam?? I'm down to try it if it means not taking off the head.

Besides plug coulors how do you tell if a engin is running lean.

and i'll have a pic up in a day or so. Who makes the best replacement shocks??

thanks for all of the replys!