Bociba

My truck has got to be the most gutless out there. Sure, has the turbo indicator light but I don't feel a thing.

I don't know how to check if the turbo is working. I put on a new Hi flow cat - no help.

I kind of think it is bogging down. I have nothing to compare the performance to other than an 83 GTS 5 sp Celica. The celica is a joy to drive compared to the truck in regards to power.

The accel is hard to push on the truck (harder by far then on the celica) - and the truck makes a lot of noise like the engine is winding up but never really gets there fast.

Turbo lag? I dunno, seems to lag all the time. Seems like I always have to push it into passing gear to get up and go.

Gas mileage is only about 12mpg. I can get up on the highway and it will do 80mph but it takes a while to get there. Motor revs freely though - responsive. It's just doesn't seem to have any power.

I have the ECT circuit that I can put on Norm or Power. Power helps a little but very little. When I have driven in altitudes of say 6000 ft the truck is so boggy that it is pitiful.

I was thinking the FI should make up for the altitude issue at least as good as doing carb adjustment (If I had carbs to adjust).

I have about 100,000 miles on the truck.



Any suggestions as to what I can do? I'd like to get at least similar power out of the truck as I get out of the non-turbo'd celica. Maybe that is not possible. Truck is stock as is celica. Help!!!

Turbo4Runner

Get a manual boost gauge (can be had for under $30) and hook it up to see if you are getting any boost. You should get around 6/7psi stock. The turbo light doesn't really tell you squat. It just says you *should* be in boost based on what the ECU reads.

My guess is you either have a hefty boost leak (leak between turbo and intake) or probably more likely you have a cracked exhaust housing on the turbo and it's not spooling up. The stock turbo's are prone to cracking. When they crack pressure will not build up to spool the turbo and you get no power. A turbo motor with a failed turbo is VERY weak as far as power.

The turbo trucks have plenty of power stock, when the turbo is working..

Get the boost gauge, then take a real close look at your intake (between turbo and TB) and your exhaust manifold/turbo exhaust housing for cracks.

Good luck!

EDIT: Oh yeah, and in my experience the stock turbo's tend to die right around 100k.

Bociba

Thanks for the info about the turbo or lack thereof in my case. I still have a few questions..albeit dumb:

Where do I connect the boost gauge?

What I have is a OBX Turbo/pressure/vacuum meter. Instructions only show to connect a tee into a vacuum hose.... doesn't say where.

If there is a leak in the manifold...shouldn't I be able to hear it? I cannot hear any "exhaust noise" over the engine and I would say the engine is not loud at all.

I also have access to some kind of turbo leak detector (uses soap under pressure) but as you can tell I am as "green" as they come to testing these things.

tampabayota

ask member named dcg9381 his name is darin he in my opinon is the toyota guru. or there is a web site 22rtectrucks.com or something like that that guy who runs it is also a turbo guru . Sounds like your turbo is toast the ct20 is prone to go bad

Turbo4Runner

Basically you just need any vacuum source from the manifold. I like to tap from the 3-prong outlet at the firewall side of the intake plenum. In most trucks at least one of them is capped, just remove the cap and plug it in. If its not capped just T one of the lines and run the hose to your gauge.

You may not always be able to hear the exhaust leak unless its pretty big. You definitely would not hear a boost leak (leak between turbo and tb). Inspect the rubber joints between your turbo and throttle body, make sure they are sealing.

I'm not familiar with a 'turbo leak detector' as any kind of kit, but I have many times tested the intake for leaks by creating an adapter from PVC parts and a tire valve, fitting it to the intake side of my turbo and pressurizing it with an air compressor. This is a very effective way of ensuring you do not have boost leaks.

As far as testing the exhaust manifold, I believe there are some kits online that use dye to help you find cracks. Chances are its right by your waste gate where you will not be able to see it unless its removed from the truck.

First things first, hook up the boost gauge and confirm you are not getting any boost. Then, inspect the intake (because its easier). If those do produce any useful information its probably time to pull the turbo.

Here's the website tampabayota was talking about: http://www.22rte-trucks.com/simplemachinesforum/ run by Jeff Mosk.

and dcg (Darin) is a wealth of information but I doubt he would have much different to say on this topic then what I have suggested so far.

dcg9381

My site is http://22returbo.net
Jeff Mosk - who is the turbo guru started a forum for turbo trucks specifically:
http://22rte-trucks.com

The short answer to your question is that you want the boost gauge to be hooked up to the manifold, somewhere AFTER the throttle body. Usually that means using a T off one of the existing lines that are on there.

Two other things you might want to try:
1) Pull the air intake hose off your turbo, check the turbo for free play. There are play limits in the factory service manual - if you're beyond play limits, you definitely want to get it rebuilt or pursue an alternative.

2) Run leak test on your intake track as mentioned above. PVC, a tire valve, radiator hose - basically you want to be able to fill the intake side of the turbo with pressure from an air compressor. This air should leak out slowly, like over 30 seconds. It's ultra-useful in regard to finding boost leaks.

Full Boogie

This is not true, the "turbo indicator light" gets it's signal from a boost switch which if I remember correctly is over on the passenger side of the engine compartment by the firewall. So basically that light won't come on unless you HAVE boost, the downside is, it will come on with as little as 1~1.5 psi, so ya, get a boost gauge and see what it's really doing. If you don't find any boost leaks, you might figure out a way to watch the timing, short of putting the truck on a dyno it might be hard. Toyota's knock sensor loves to over-work especially in the case of the factory turbo trucks because they have to account for a hot engine, on a hot day and the possibility of someone putting in the cheapest gas they can find. If your truck is sluggish for no obvious reasons it might just be pulling timing, the knock sensor may even be bad to cause this and may not set a "check engine" light.

Just my thoughts....

Later

dcg9381

That's opposite of my understanding.. but I don't have a factory turbo and can't say for 100% certainty. Never heard of a MAP / hobbs switch on these things.. Guys on the 22rte forum will know for sure.


Good to see you, Rick... You should post up some of your results on turbo'ing a stock 22RE. I bet you'll generate some interest.

Bociba

Hooked up a vacum/boost gauge. With the engine running at normal temp the gauge reads 20in. Revving the engine only causes the vcuum to drop to zero. Cannot get the gauge to ever swing towards the boost side. Must bedoing something wrong.

Turbo4Runner

You will not see any boost unless you are under load. 20in at idle is pretty good.

Try it in gear and see if you can get any boost.

Greg_Canada

Nope, it means youre not boosting.
You probably have a leak or your turbo is blown.
I would get a TEC kit if you want to keep it stock ish, or get a new manifold with t3 flange and install a t3/t4 turbo... with intercooler...