Raoul von S.

Installed a Weber 38 and removed a wheelbarrow full of emissions equipment. Working out a few bugs, but it looks to be a great move for performance and fuel economy.

It has been suggested I move to an electric fuel pump for smoother ops with the Weber. This opens up the question of the 3rd fuel line off the stock pump, going to the charcoal cannister, and returning to the tank and how to either remove or integrate with the inline electric pump with no 3rd line connection.

se7enine

iTrader: (2)

I have a fuel filter that I use that has the return line

Before that I just capped the return line. You will want to get a fuel pressure regulator as well. The Weber needs 2-3 psi to perform at it's best. In order to get the fuel economy equal to stock and maybe up the performance you will also want a jet kit. A high altitude jet kit if you are above 4000ft. Once you have jets you can tune that shiz in like 30 minutes on the fly.

L5wolvesf

What is wrong with the stock pump?

Raoul von S.

Doing something totally out of my lane here, so following advice of those more
"in the know". All the rest of my vehicles and "tech" are pre-emissions oldies.

So, the reason/s I see for going with the electric fuel pump:

1. My savant mechanic friend thinks it will perform better. Says the mechanical
pump pulses during cold ops.

2. Reading blog posts about installing the Weber, many have posted that an
electric pump is the way to go - no real solid reason/s given.

3. No space to neatly install a pressure regulator between the pump and carb.
It would require a loop in the line.

4. My CDO drives me to clean up the engine bay as much as possible. Hauling
around unused, unnecessary clutter/baggage is a no-go. If it is not helping the
performance or economy, get it gone.

..... which leads to the question about the need to have that charcoal return vapor/
pressure equalizer line, and if it is good to keep, how to integrate it.

And while on the subject, what is the function of the electrically hooked up vacuum
switch on the passenger inner fender that goes to the charcoal cannister ? Can all
this be removed as "just more emissions junk" ?

BTW - thanks for the feedback so far. I love this truck and will likely drive it until I die.
It is a hard-used work truck, is reliable, gets great fuel economy, and unless I need
to haul massive weight (I have a 1 ton flatbed for that), it is just an awesome truck.

L5wolvesf

2. Reading blog posts about installing the Weber, many have posted that an electric pump is the way to go - no real solid reason/s given.
It sounds neato to say, it can look cool, but those aren't good reasons. Because in a mostly stock engine no real solid reason exists.

3. No space to neatly install a pressure regulator between the pump and carb. It would require a loop in the line.
Webers operate best at 2.5 psi - much more and you will push fuel through the needle. So you're gonna need a regulator. Post a pic of you install/engine bay.

4. My CDO drives me to clean up the engine bay as much as possible. Hauling around unused, unnecessary clutter/baggage is a no-go. If it is not helping the performance or economy, get it gone.
But be absolutely sure it is not helping the performance or economy first.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Check out LCE, they have a smog delete section and youtube

Raoul von S.

As stated before, I am being careful at every step to not remove or install something
that will harm the end product, which to me is improved fuel economy, reliability, and if
it performs better, that's an extra.

I did a bit of driving today on the new system. It has stout lift-off at all speeds around
town. Much moreso that with the stock system and with all the stock emission gear present.
It does stumble a bit at low RPM's, but this may be the result of still having a minor vacuum
leak somewhere ... there were a LOT of vacuum lines to plug/redirect !

How does one attach a photo on this site ? When I click on the mountain icon above, it
brings up a window where I can select a photo. I do this, it shows it uploading, but nothing
appears in the address bar. If I click on the "insert" icon, it tells me nothing is there. Hmmm ...

Raoul von S.

Hump ~ It was the LCE Youtube video on installing a Weber that piqued my
interest in taking this on. The deafening music, whispering narrator, and totally
out of sync narration-to-video steps was maddening, and left out more than it
included, as far as removing emission gear. Do you know of something I don't ?

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

try this
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCNewsl..._TECHNOTE.html

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Raoul
I'm in the process of a frame up rebuild on my 84 4wd pickup. There isn't a nut or bolt that won't be touched. While i'm at it I will desmog it. Engine is being rebuilt also, like I said not a bolt will go untouched. The front axle will be completely rebuilt with all new hardware same as the rear end. Upgrading the front brakes to slotted vented rotors, bigger calipers and dual boster and 1" master cylinder The engine will be stock with a 32/36 weber with a new intake that the weber bolts up to without any spacers. It's a huge project but I'm taking my time and doing it step by step. I like dealing with LCE, a lot of good information on there site and easy to contact them for advice, ( and boy that helps a lot)
Anyway, hope your project goes good, just take your time and if you don't know "research it"
And dare I forget to mention all the people on yotatech that help me out "a lot" Thanks

Raoul von S.

Hump ~

Your link is exactly what I was looking for. The writer takes it a tad farther than I did,
but apparently his "be brave" directive is how I attacked it, only holding back on the
stuff that seems to be tied to the electric choke (I did not get the Weber with the manual
choke) and the stock fuel distro. The writer dials those points in well, and gets into
some stuff I had no clue was part of the emissions system. I guess I will have to go
give those items a look.

Thanks for the link. Big help.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Welcome, glad to help
If you have time you should check out kawazx636 He has a thread here 1983 toyota pickup restore, I got a lot of info from that thread but I'll warn you, it's 73 pages long! BTW, that's the guy that did most of the desmog on that link I gave you
And here's another link that will be helpful
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...nginetech.html

se7enine

iTrader: (2)

For me the only reason to go electric fuel pump was it was my only option. The head is a 20R and doesn't have the mechanical fuel pump eccentric on the cam and where the fuel pump goes is blocked off. Too much trouble to put one on vs buy electric pump and relay/wire it in.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Was the eccentric removed?
I have a 20R head that i'm rebuilding and it has it.

se7enine

iTrader: (2)

I checked to make sure and It needs an LCE eccentric because of the LCE dual row adjustable gear so I figured why bother. I have a redline fuel pump that I like and it's not that loud so I'm ok without.

Raoul von S.

Been driving the truck now for a week and pushing 300 miles. Amazing difference in
pep and power. Ordered the LCE recommended Holley fuel pressure regulator, as I
have the fuel choked way down and still running a little rich, even though the outfeed
pressure at the pump tests at 3psi. Other than that, I am very pleased with the swap
in of the Weber. Very happy with the cleaning up of the engine bay. Thanks for all the
help.

bendiesel76

se7enine

iTrader: (2)

What jets are you running? The only real way to tune these carbs is trying different jet combos. Idle, air and main jets. There are two of each. If you're still running rich at 3 psi its the carb.

old87yota

The 15 post restriction is only for starting a thread in the classifieds section. You can (and should) start your own thread to avoid confusion since this thread pertains to the removal of emissions systems on carbureted 22R engines.

Start new thread in 1986-1995 Toyota Trucks & 4Runners: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/

Raoul von S.

A little more followup and questions ....

The truck has been through two tanks of gas and fuel economy is up about 25%.
At about 700 miles the engine began to run rougher and pre-det. Time to get the
fuel pressure regulator is on. On, and set at 2.75lbs. I adjusted the air/fuel to Weber
specs and it ran well, but idle was a bit high. Reset timing to 5btdc and it is running
super smooth and great power. However, it still seems to ping a bit. I suspect I need
to dial in this timing. What is the correct timing advance setting for a 22r ? Would I
need to adjust for the 38/38 Weber ?