86 22RE EGR elimination "How To" with PICS!
04-13-2013, 08:01 AM
#21
Well I removed my egr system last night. Well not technically just the pipe the hooks up to the exhaust manifold. No place for it on my header. Made a block off plate at rtved it back together. No temp issues so far. But also I have only put about 50 miles on it. I need to look up how to put the delete in there. My cel is on but I think that's also o2 sensor related. Header had the port up high so I am going to weld in a bung do by the cat and see if that makes a difference.
Please nobody lecture me on how I am killing the earth or my truck. As I am secure about the size of my "truck" and don't need to hear how small your "truck" is. I am just sharing my results. I will post mileage updates when I run enough miles to test
Please nobody lecture me on how I am killing the earth or my truck. As I am secure about the size of my "truck" and don't need to hear how small your "truck" is. I am just sharing my results. I will post mileage updates when I run enough miles to test
05-27-2013, 02:33 PM
#22
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Has anyone thats done this done it to a auto trans 22re setup??
Just curious. mines an auto and it seems to have a different vacuum port setup on the intake AND my throttle body has 2 bigger ports as of one on a manual.
Also can the fuel press reg be hooked to any usable vacuum source??
Just curious. mines an auto and it seems to have a different vacuum port setup on the intake AND my throttle body has 2 bigger ports as of one on a manual.
Also can the fuel press reg be hooked to any usable vacuum source??
10-06-2013, 07:41 PM
#23
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22re egr delete questions
I have removed all the egr stuff from my engine, and capped off all vacuum lines. What happens with the small line from the charcoal can also what about the diaphram on the fuel rail?
02-19-2015, 01:16 PM
#24
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You need to remove that little breather on your valve cover and hook up the stock hose the way it was factory, with that installed you are letting unmetered air into the intake and that will cause a miss, bad idle or loss of power.
The third picture posted by DIRTCO is wrong, that valve controls vacuum to the fuel presure regulator, you can remove the electric vacuum valve, but the hose comming off the fuel presure needs to be conected to a vacuum source on the intake.
The third picture posted by DIRTCO is wrong, that valve controls vacuum to the fuel presure regulator, you can remove the electric vacuum valve, but the hose comming off the fuel presure needs to be conected to a vacuum source on the intake.
That breather on the valve cover is not related to the front vac line on the TB. I agree that line needs to be connected or you have rogue air entering the intake manifold. The breather just vents pressure to atmosphere instead of cycling back through the manifold. Only caveat is added oil smell in the bay. Ive had a breather on for years and no problems.
02-19-2015, 01:21 PM
#25
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you need to keep the left, top line from the TB connected to the charcoal canister. The bvsv can be removed and replaced with a pipe plug or ive seen other loop a line from the top nipple to the bottom.
02-22-2016, 11:04 AM
#26
Well,
As someone who has done the EGR block off plates and removed it, I'm not going to say don't do it. What I am going to say is the obvious, that being don't just start plugging and pulling vacuum lines because it doesn't "look good", there's a reason for them beyond that. You should at least have a rudimentary understanding of the vacuum flow therefore understanding WHY you have those vacuum lines there in the first place before considering getting rid of them. Don't be one of "those" guys... leave that to the chevy owners, etc. JK!
Anyways, removing my EGR and plugging the associated vac lines actually removed a low idle stumble that occurred when in first and reverse, something which I didn't believe to be EGR related. Idles smooth and runs good with steady power. My engine is running at normal temps and I'm getting 19-22 mpg between city and some highway. Make an EDUCATED decision, don't just guess and check.
As someone who has done the EGR block off plates and removed it, I'm not going to say don't do it. What I am going to say is the obvious, that being don't just start plugging and pulling vacuum lines because it doesn't "look good", there's a reason for them beyond that. You should at least have a rudimentary understanding of the vacuum flow therefore understanding WHY you have those vacuum lines there in the first place before considering getting rid of them. Don't be one of "those" guys... leave that to the chevy owners, etc. JK!
Anyways, removing my EGR and plugging the associated vac lines actually removed a low idle stumble that occurred when in first and reverse, something which I didn't believe to be EGR related. Idles smooth and runs good with steady power. My engine is running at normal temps and I'm getting 19-22 mpg between city and some highway. Make an EDUCATED decision, don't just guess and check.
02-24-2016, 04:33 PM
#27
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Thanks for the info; my truck has had a rough idle since I got it 6 months ago and I am blaming it on vacuum leaks. the problem I have is that I am about the 10th owner of this truck and the lines are all jacked up. The EGR delete looks like the best option for me.
03-07-2016, 05:58 PM
#29
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On the early 22re we don't have that EGR sensor so it's simplified a bit. Here are the two block off plates I made from 1/2" steel. Painted to look purty...well actually so they wouldn't rust.
Gasket and gooped and installed using factory hardware, pretty simple.
I'm going to organize wiring/vac lines once I've put some miles on it and checked MPG and see how it performs. But I got rid of obviously the EGR valve, the vacuum modulator and all the associated vac lines. Pretty much everything that was hooked to those metal vac lines, which I'll remove later on. The bi-metal switch (BSV) I just left in because it's not leaking coolant so it acts as a plug anyways. Ran out of caps so I just looped the two leftover ports on the TB.
Also I did away with all the vac lines for AC idle/ps idle control, I don't have AC comp hooked up and so far no real noticeable effect from the ps anyways. Anything I can do to make for less troubleshooting is good in my book.
So how does it run? WOW-AMAZING!!! 3rd gear chirps now...ok not really. The only noticeable difference was the idle is a bit smoother, haven't put on enough miles to notice anything else. Runs at the normal operating temp, no pinging... I'm pretty religious about checking my gas mileage and have been averaging 18-19 with most of that being on the highway. We'll see what happens in that regards.
Gasket and gooped and installed using factory hardware, pretty simple.
I'm going to organize wiring/vac lines once I've put some miles on it and checked MPG and see how it performs. But I got rid of obviously the EGR valve, the vacuum modulator and all the associated vac lines. Pretty much everything that was hooked to those metal vac lines, which I'll remove later on. The bi-metal switch (BSV) I just left in because it's not leaking coolant so it acts as a plug anyways. Ran out of caps so I just looped the two leftover ports on the TB.
Also I did away with all the vac lines for AC idle/ps idle control, I don't have AC comp hooked up and so far no real noticeable effect from the ps anyways. Anything I can do to make for less troubleshooting is good in my book.
So how does it run? WOW-AMAZING!!! 3rd gear chirps now...ok not really. The only noticeable difference was the idle is a bit smoother, haven't put on enough miles to notice anything else. Runs at the normal operating temp, no pinging... I'm pretty religious about checking my gas mileage and have been averaging 18-19 with most of that being on the highway. We'll see what happens in that regards.
Where did you come up with all of those nice and neat little caps? I plugged my egr a few weeks ago due to a rough idle, and have since ordered block plates from LCE. I want to finish cleaning up the valve cover, but I'm not sure how I'm going to go about vacuum line plugging.
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