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7mge afm swap

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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 10:30 PM
  #21  
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From: washington state
Originally Posted by bone collector
The last 2 swaps I did the screw did not have to be moved. So i would get it running first and then play with the screw adjustment
Okay cool, and my idle speed screw on my tb is set all the way in right now (lowest idle setting) and it idles around 900 rpms, not sure if that's unusual but I'm running tan injectors 91 octane fuel and leaned the maf out to compensate for the injectors
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 07:51 AM
  #22  
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From: Northen Indiana
What's your timing?
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:26 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by bone collector
What's your timing?
14 degrees give or take
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 09:47 AM
  #24  
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Timing should be close. You could probably go a little more if you wanted. If your throttle body idle screw is all the way in and your idle is still 900 then the air idle bypass screw on the AFM is too far open. Close it down and open up the tb idle screw. Good luck. It is a fine balance game to make it run right.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 12:02 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by bone collector
Timing should be close. You could probably go a little more if you wanted. If your throttle body idle screw is all the way in and your idle is still 900 then the air idle bypass screw on the AFM is too far open. Close it down and open up the tb idle screw. Good luck. It is a fine balance game to make it run right.
Ohhh that makes sense, and sometimes on start up and at idle my idle will surge real bad but it's only a few times a day
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 01:46 PM
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Just checked my bypass screw and it's screwed all the way tight just like my tb idle screw is
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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What's the idle??
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 02:40 PM
  #28  
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Well the 7mge is on and running... here's the specs:
Rpm: 600
Idle bypass screw: all the way tight
Throttle body idle screw: little over 1 turn out
Cog: 1 tooth rich
I may go to stock tooth setting to see Becuase it smells a tad rich and I'm not seeing much performance gain, it seems like it lugs shifting through the gears
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 02:42 PM
  #29  
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Also unplugged the efi fuse to reset it and I'm about to double Check the timing
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 07:35 AM
  #30  
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Well just an update in case anyone was wondering... I had to take the afm off Becuase after trying many different setting and allowing the computer to a adjust it wanted to die if you gave it any throttle
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 08:03 AM
  #31  
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I wonder if the AFM is bad
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 09:28 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by bone collector
I wonder if the AFM is bad
It looks kinda old but I have been struggling with what I think is a vacuum leak of some sort not positive though. Anyone seen the silicon vacuum tubing on ebay?
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 09:44 AM
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Have you done an egr delete as well?? There is a common vacuum leak that every one misses with that.
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 09:54 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by bone collector
Have you done an egr delete as well?? There is a common vacuum leak that every one misses with that.
Yes I did, and are you talking about the bolt on the front of the plenum?
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 10:37 AM
  #35  
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Yes I am
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 10:47 AM
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Yeah got that plugged
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 01:25 PM
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Post some pictures of your engine bay. See if we can figure it out
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 12:07 AM
  #38  
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Found the youngest thread I could for these questions.

So everyone seems to know this without asking . Do i need to get the supra air intake box? Or does the 7mge afm fit onto the 3vze airbox? Also, can someone please lost a pic of where the idle bypass screw is on the 7mge airbox?

Thanks!!
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 03:14 AM
  #39  
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No the 7mge AFM will not bolt up to the 3vze air box. The height of the door opening is different. The 7mge opening is bigger which is why you want it. Look through the older threads and you will see the small circle for idle adjustment that need to be drilled out.
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 06:37 AM
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I had a feeling I was going to meed the airbox.
Ill try to find the pic. Thanks!
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