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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

6" lift driveline vibes?

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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 07:01 PM
  #21  
James Dean's Avatar
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From: Tucson, AZ
It doesn't do much good to lengthen the links to a new location if you are using the stock spring configuration. It can only flex so much, so there is no reason to create more articulation than the spring would allow. Creating new mounts further away would only be beneficial if if you were going to use a dual action coil-over or an offroad type spring.



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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 07:34 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by muddpigg
huh. Think you missed part of my question.
probably did. and my geometry isn't quite as good as it used to be either.

>edited out irrelevant babble<

Last edited by abecedarian; Jan 21, 2009 at 07:38 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 08:09 PM
  #23  
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From: Enterprise, AL
Originally Posted by James Dean
It doesn't do much good to lengthen the links to a new location if you are using the stock spring configuration. It can only flex so much, so there is no reason to create more articulation than the spring would allow. Creating new mounts further away would only be beneficial if if you were going to use a dual action coil-over or an offroad type spring.
If not mistaken the factory set up is 3 link, how does this compare to a 4 link(meaning articulation)? and is the 4 link streetible to run on a DD? I'm pretty sure I don't want to know the price range of the springs you pictured

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 02:26 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by muddpigg
If not mistaken the factory set up is 3 link, how does this compare to a 4 link(meaning articulation)? and is the 4 link streetible to run on a DD? I'm pretty sure I don't want to know the price range of the springs you pictured

Thanks in advance.
You're mistaken
The factory setup is actually a 5 link with regards to the axle connection points.

- Two upper control arms.
- Two lower control arms.
- Track bar (aka panhard par).

Jeeps (TJ's) are the same.
I did a 3~4 link (and some other "fancy" stuff with the lower arms) and was fine as a DD.




Fred
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 04:55 PM
  #25  
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well i took off the rear driveshaft, drove at about 50mph, the vibes are gone. only problem is the t-case output is loose and leaking tranny fluid.

does the transmission and t-case share fluid or is it seperate? its an a340-h.

im gonna get a cv off of a stock front drive shaft and take it to a shop and have them put it on the rear and balance it, hope that fixes the problem. also gonna have to fix the t-case output.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 05:49 PM
  #26  
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I, meaning me, wouldn't do that.
Normal u-joints go through acceleration and deceleration while spinning at an angle. On a typical driveshavft, the joints at the ends are installed in such a way that as one of the joints is accelerating, the other is decelerating thus keeping a consistant rotational speed at the input to the axle. Installing a CV (constant velocity- note the name?) on only one end will result in the accel/decel of the u-joint on the other end not being cancelled and consequently a 'surging' of the rear wheels while you're moving / in gear.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 06:50 PM
  #27  
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From: Tucson, AZ USA Age:60
Originally Posted by mikhail
well i took off the rear driveshaft, drove at about 50mph, the vibes are gone. only problem is the t-case output is loose and leaking tranny fluid.

does the transmission and t-case share fluid or is it seperate? its an a340-h.

im gonna get a cv off of a stock front drive shaft and take it to a shop and have them put it on the rear and balance it, hope that fixes the problem. also gonna have to fix the t-case output.
The loose ouput flange on the xfer case is, more than likely, the problem.
Fix that and then re-install the driveshaft.
Yes, the fluid in the xfer case is shared with the tranny.




Fred
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 06:54 PM
  #28  
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From: Tucson, AZ USA Age:60
Originally Posted by abecedarian
I, meaning me, wouldn't do that.
Normal u-joints go through acceleration and deceleration while spinning at an angle. On a typical driveshavft, the joints at the ends are installed in such a way that as one of the joints is accelerating, the other is decelerating thus keeping a consistant rotational speed at the input to the axle. Installing a CV (constant velocity- note the name?) on only one end will result in the accel/decel of the u-joint on the other end not being cancelled and consequently a 'surging' of the rear wheels while you're moving / in gear.
Actually it's not a problem and it's a specific cure for vibrations case by the u-joints being used beyond their specified working angles, caused by lifting the vehicle.
With a CV joint on the xfer case of the driveshaft and a normal u-joint on the axle end, the rear diff pinion will need to be adjusted such that the u-joint angle is straight and all of the angle is born by the cv joint.



Fred

Last edited by FredTJ; Jan 23, 2009 at 02:31 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 09:01 PM
  #29  
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i looked through the FSM i downloaded, and cant seem to find how to take apart the t-case. The actual nut holding on the output flange is loose, but cant spin because of a little indent thats pressed into the side. I dont think it couldve come loose over time, its probably from the driveshaft vibrating, thats made it worse.

and running a cv in the rear driveshaft has been done many times, but i did notice the 'surging' you mentioned when i was driving around in front wheel drive.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 09:34 PM
  #30  
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From: Nor, CAL
Check for dings or missing weights on the driveshaft, you may just simply need to balance it.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 03:33 AM
  #31  
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Just be prepared that after you tighten the flange, check and repkace the t-case out put bearing as it could be prematurely worn from DS vibes. Specially if you have slop and the nut is still staked.

That you'll need to still check DS angles. If you need to go with a CV shaft you'll have to adjust the pinion so it points at T-case.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 12:25 PM
  #32  
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i checked the seal behind the flange, it was fine so i just tightened the nut. Theres no slop in the flange now either. The vibes are alot better, but there is still a little so i think ill get a cv joint put on the drive shaft and adjust the pinion angle.
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